Pete Lewis

manual s a bit vague but gives GT6 front springs as fitted test length as 8.06" +- 0.09" test load 880lbs free length 12.46" there's no clues about spring plate on shocker positions pete

Fitted spring lengths are in the manual , (thats out in the conservatory with a cold laptop) but first thoughts are that your shocker spring platforms are at the wrong height from the lower bush. rather than the springs are too long. pete

On a different drift had this on a swing spring conversion on the Vit6 and to get any ride amounts of kit butchery ended with cut 25mm off the shocker dust can and removed 2 of the 3 rubber bump rings to get some travel. the whole thing was useless and removed to a courier spring set up. pete

from the wiring 2500s diagram yes there is a hazard and flasher as separate units do check the dual filiament bulbs 5/21w are in ok/ right way round for stop tail and the flashers are all 21w and the claw fittings are making an earth in the boot. also delete the nigh dimmer in the boot rear wheel arch if its fitted, easy to bypass join all like colours and ditch the earth pete dont see one on the 25s diagram so youre lucky

If you wish to join you can save £5 by direct debit you get a free insurance valuation for 12months important if you dont want the value to be a 40 yr old banger and apart from everything else a full colour snazzy informative magazine every month its worth considering

If its in next months Courier then details are public Have you thought about joining ?

Its not in the feb courier so details are only available on line to club members until its published if you are a member then you need to log in the home page and the advert details will show. Its done that way so theres an advantage of membership you get the details earlier than non members You could contact hq as the non logged in suggests or fill in the contact them email in the drop box pete

£75 + new from the usual places ouch! pete

its that old chestnut !!!! Pete

that rings a bell do some have cup washer each side of the flat bushes the washer having the location protrusion ?? cant remember something has to keep the shaft away/central in the turret hole or you get amazing squeaks you cant trace Pete

if you go back into the past you will see ive always promoted their site agree excellent site

the bush should have a spigot/shoulder that centralises the bush in the turret hole top and bottom are the same theres a simple cup washer sits either side of the bush and the shocker shaft has a register/stepped thread to control the amount of squash when you tighten the nut, the shocker shaft only has any load on it in the off the deck or off the car position and the spring length is restricted by the shocker being fully extened, on the road or with the suspension jacked there is no load and you can push pull the shaft quite easy, just some damped loading if the shoulder wont fit thro the turret theres a basic dimensional problem with the bushes just some ramblings Pete

Thats useful, some later and replacement delany valves have a capiliary pipe which should be routed into the cabin and this acts as a thermostat and tries to keep the heater output constant with engine coolant temp variation lucky youres doesn't have this extra pete

Any chance of a photo? the weight wont do much you are only looking at the shocker spindle damping loads the shocker only loads this bush when fully extended on a jack etc? On the floor there is no load on the shaft Dont leave it hanging off a jack you need the suspension semi loaded or the shocker will seem too short Have you tried fit the cup washer and underside bush and raise the shaft through it then fit the top bush and cup washer pete

John, take them off , screw the small nut to fully close the plastic plunger onto its seat if the thing is open at normal , or sucking air as the 2 o ring seals are degraded you artificially weaken the idle mixture and it get set on the rich side to get a even idle, the result is its too rich with the throttles open there are careful tests to set these to the book, but for most having them open when they should be closed is the main culprit, so block them off or set them shut at normal temperature is the best diy solution then adjust the mixture with your CDSE you need the tool with a hex key to adjust the needle height they are there to lean the mixture by bleeding air around the throttle plates when very hot, certainly would aid your hot idle but if they are as most wear into an open setting , your whole mixture is wrong right up the revs range if that makes any sense pete

What gt6 is this , does it have temperature compensators on the front sides?of each carburettor pete

I would echo Colin n this too hot too rich , not enough under bonnet air flow worse still if you have pancake filters sucking in loads of hot air. hot engine lost power due too hot/rich and fan load makes the alternator drag the idle down till it died . refit engine driven fan and lean it off. Pete

If its a fuel smell then apart from a perforated tank being rusty underneath then the normal culprit is the short hose from the tank suction pipe to the supply pipemgoesnhard and might seem tight but leaks drain back fuel you also need to check the state of the union and oilive on the suction tube reserve union may be too loose or if its a rubber olive ...degraded and leaks with full tank and on drain back is the fuel cap at its best , its a poor design suffers alot of neck damage over the years and spillage can enter the boot from the body sealing grommet most water leaks are from the tail lamp seals pete

http://www.chriswitor.com/technical.php You realy need the casting ref and head depth eg have a browse at chris witor look up technical and head applications download Wont help, with a vitesse but gives the sort of clues to help pete

the lamp on a Vit6 was 604291 where as rimmers spec only one 611769 both seem unavailable the Vit6 lamp sits in the roof liner above the top of the B post any repro lamp would work, but get one with door switch ability built in Pete

as the travel increases when parked for a period its a classic case of excessive front hub bearing end float, the weight of the car with too much float gets the brake disc to push back the caliper pistons , so every time you jump in you get a low pedal, pumpt hthe pistons out and hey presto its fine ...till you leave it for a while put your knees against the tyre and press/knee the wheel inward there should be a small dtectable shift , not a good rock on the wheel. if it feels positive its too much spec is 0.002" - 0.008" but best jack it up take the cap off , remove the split pin nip the nut to light hand tight nip, and back it of 1 full flat refit the pin and grease cap Pete

There are the two shafts , you cant run some of the hubs from a gt6 3rail on a single rail mainshaft The hub splines are either too small or rattling good fit. If the box is stripped do a test fit the 1st 2nd hub from the 3 rail onto the 1 rail shaft Having built many a gearbox from little triumphs to 18speed trucks my last spigot failure got me up to mike papworth and had the 18mm spigot and deadicated input stem wheel fitted , sold now but its the only upgrade that works unless you go for a ford type 9 conversion or TR7 small box.

Any imobilising idea is worthwhile providing you remember to refit, turn on, connect up before you find the car wont start remember my dad talking about removing the rotor in the war as cars had to be imobilised and they pushed the car through the town some 4 miles to home, on putting hands in to get the front door key ......find the rotor arm theres a lesson there pete

Dennis if can get it clean and a carefull use of a blow lamp solder a peice of flatend out copper water pipe or something similar over the split as a patch worth a try they do seem troublesome tanks,. Odd , as its a simple construction Pete

most alloy modern car rads are mounted very loose and flexibly as vibration fatigue i reckon fails ally units and rigid mounts may reduce its life just a thought Pete