Pete Lewis

Any chance of a photo? the weight wont do much you are only looking at the shocker spindle damping loads the shocker only loads this bush when fully extended on a jack etc? On the floor there is no load on the shaft Dont leave it hanging off a jack you need the suspension semi loaded or the shocker will seem too short Have you tried fit the cup washer and underside bush and raise the shaft through it then fit the top bush and cup washer pete

John, take them off , screw the small nut to fully close the plastic plunger onto its seat if the thing is open at normal , or sucking air as the 2 o ring seals are degraded you artificially weaken the idle mixture and it get set on the rich side to get a even idle, the result is its too rich with the throttles open there are careful tests to set these to the book, but for most having them open when they should be closed is the main culprit, so block them off or set them shut at normal temperature is the best diy solution then adjust the mixture with your CDSE you need the tool with a hex key to adjust the needle height they are there to lean the mixture by bleeding air around the throttle plates when very hot, certainly would aid your hot idle but if they are as most wear into an open setting , your whole mixture is wrong right up the revs range if that makes any sense pete

What gt6 is this , does it have temperature compensators on the front sides?of each carburettor pete

I would echo Colin n this too hot too rich , not enough under bonnet air flow worse still if you have pancake filters sucking in loads of hot air. hot engine lost power due too hot/rich and fan load makes the alternator drag the idle down till it died . refit engine driven fan and lean it off. Pete

If its a fuel smell then apart from a perforated tank being rusty underneath then the normal culprit is the short hose from the tank suction pipe to the supply pipemgoesnhard and might seem tight but leaks drain back fuel you also need to check the state of the union and oilive on the suction tube reserve union may be too loose or if its a rubber olive ...degraded and leaks with full tank and on drain back is the fuel cap at its best , its a poor design suffers alot of neck damage over the years and spillage can enter the boot from the body sealing grommet most water leaks are from the tail lamp seals pete

http://www.chriswitor.com/technical.php You realy need the casting ref and head depth eg have a browse at chris witor look up technical and head applications download Wont help, with a vitesse but gives the sort of clues to help pete

the lamp on a Vit6 was 604291 where as rimmers spec only one 611769 both seem unavailable the Vit6 lamp sits in the roof liner above the top of the B post any repro lamp would work, but get one with door switch ability built in Pete

as the travel increases when parked for a period its a classic case of excessive front hub bearing end float, the weight of the car with too much float gets the brake disc to push back the caliper pistons , so every time you jump in you get a low pedal, pumpt hthe pistons out and hey presto its fine ...till you leave it for a while put your knees against the tyre and press/knee the wheel inward there should be a small dtectable shift , not a good rock on the wheel. if it feels positive its too much spec is 0.002" - 0.008" but best jack it up take the cap off , remove the split pin nip the nut to light hand tight nip, and back it of 1 full flat refit the pin and grease cap Pete

There are the two shafts , you cant run some of the hubs from a gt6 3rail on a single rail mainshaft The hub splines are either too small or rattling good fit. If the box is stripped do a test fit the 1st 2nd hub from the 3 rail onto the 1 rail shaft Having built many a gearbox from little triumphs to 18speed trucks my last spigot failure got me up to mike papworth and had the 18mm spigot and deadicated input stem wheel fitted , sold now but its the only upgrade that works unless you go for a ford type 9 conversion or TR7 small box.

Any imobilising idea is worthwhile providing you remember to refit, turn on, connect up before you find the car wont start remember my dad talking about removing the rotor in the war as cars had to be imobilised and they pushed the car through the town some 4 miles to home, on putting hands in to get the front door key ......find the rotor arm theres a lesson there pete

Dennis if can get it clean and a carefull use of a blow lamp solder a peice of flatend out copper water pipe or something similar over the split as a patch worth a try they do seem troublesome tanks,. Odd , as its a simple construction Pete

most alloy modern car rads are mounted very loose and flexibly as vibration fatigue i reckon fails ally units and rigid mounts may reduce its life just a thought Pete

to add some idea''s I have the cover that club shop attemped to cut the ribbs off to gain a few mm, did not work, so i bought it cheap from Bernies bazaar and its on the 2000 you cant use a thin everlasting gasket with the orig tin cover have often thought about adding some tubes to the fixing stud so you nip the cork but dont crush the cover club shop sell aerosol of original gold colour if you want posh . they are easy enough to beat out the distortion. Pete

there is no easy diy fix , Garth says some weld a frame on the diff crossmember extended thro hole in floor to mount the reel in the boot, and a grometed slit hole in the rear deck to pass the belt cant remeber what i did on mine but just reinforced the floor with weld nut plates and used lap belts form club shop. Pete

the gt6 small spigot already looks tired this is the weakest link in the gearboxes the 1500 has the 18mm spigot used also on dolomite 1850 and has much more capacity, you must not grind the 18mm down to 0.5" or you loose the case hardening. if converting to a 1850 input shaft you need a rolled spline clutch disc to match or get a 10 cut spline input shaft from mike papworth who has some made., there are tooth profile changes about through the evolution and you cant mix them, unless you like a lot of whining. i would avoid the small spigot shaft if you want to get some life expectancy out of the rebuild do make sure you dont forget the oil pump woodruff key and the flat sprung anti clatter circlip thats on a groove in the shaft, these get missed frequently. Pete edit just checked and 3 rail mainshaft is TKC923 single rail mainshaft is RKC767 from rouges gallery im sure the 1st 2nd hub spline is very different size as a single rail hub is a right sloppy fit on a 3 rail shaft

No its not an accident waiting to happen but With agism, over tightening and 40+ years of on and off there is little reserve left on these rather small studs and many do unfortunatley suffer from stripping or shearing off mainly on the driveway not on the road but an adrift wheel can devastate the bodywork if youre motoring the 12mm 7/16"route is far more bullet proof, in comparison they are its brick sh*thouse well worth doing when you have the time or inclination. pete

Many models have a squarish black lable with basic engine settings and simple servicing data. Not found one but a copy or similar is probably available from the online label suppliers above pete

does something like this help out ??

Tyraps /cable ties what ever you want to call them , wonderous things for all sorts of tidy up jobbies' we used hundreds down the truck assy line , the guy on stage 1 would strap all his harness and air pipes down , the guy on stage 2 couldnt make anything connect so cut them off and added a load more then on final assy the syndrome repeated and again in rectification, tried hard to get them all left loose till the end but ....brits at work. when the factory closed i bagged the main stock as we continued with warranty testing for 10 years , when that closed i bagged the bin and still use some 13 years on , they range from 3" to 36" well its was better than going in the skip. just life ramblings Pete

A Ha!! If had looked back it would have rung a bell Ding bl**dy dong Pete

Looking at all your trial and tribulations ,, some grease after all these years will make them even better jiggling behind the dash is not allowed Ha ! pete

Sounds a good plan pete

Great that plugs looking quite normal .. bet youre pleased about that thats a standard leak, do check the torque back off each nut 1/2 turn and retorque dont worry too much till you need the head off , a retorque can improve it. Not always. You can remove the supressor from the wiper motor , unless you use Mw its not needed these days I would remove the wiper arms and pull the rack for greasing, turn the wheel boxes 180 deg before refitting so you use unsed gear teeth You have to pop the gear box plate off the motor and grease the gears and crank first then you can test the park switch, if you strip the motor you may need some pins to hold the brushes out the way to refit the armature comutator pete

Paul ,yes they do seem to wear or is it due to getting overtightend in a previous life Im sure Doug will have the reasons for remembering a tapered screw here we go again wrong forum pete

The mixture is only adjustable by the idle circuit, you cannot make any changes to the main normal running thats controlled by the jetting. once you open the throttle plate a little the idle circuit ceases to operate, that why a fast idle will not give any changes in mixture adjustment to the tapered screw. the choke flap on some you can alter the automacity spring to give more flap load or less , a sort of winter summer setting , normally wind the small spring over some ratchet teeth on the flap lever The flap must be free to chatter open a bit as each piston sucks , it should open the flap when you rev up a bit The mixture screw wants to be set to best idle amd then screwed in to drop the rpm by about 50 so you are just at the weak side of best , not the rich side of best pete