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Colin Lindsay

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Everything posted by Colin Lindsay

  1. Well spotted, that man! I debated the possibilities for a while but doubt if it could even be adapted to fit the Herald. Jeff: you should be able to get a refund easily enough.
  2. I have an exploded diagram showing the thinner seal (2) going under the chrome outer ring (1) and so between that and the headlamp. The light unit shouldn't spin easily, when tightened up it should be sufficiently held in place to stay put and not rotate under driving conditions, so it appears the unit is assembled in the fixed position and tightened sufficiently, then the rubber seal and chrome ring are fitted last as shown. It may possibly only be fitted to early cars but my GT6 doesn't have them; having said that, I rebuilt the bonnet using the kit I was supplied with that did not have those seals included - so it may need them, but never got them.
  3. That one's quite unusual - never saw that type before. They don't use glass, usually always perspex and BW's link to COH Baines should get a good rubber seal when you know which profile it needs. I paid £50 for mine and almost took £150 for it when it was finished... must hold out for a better offer. Rear catches are quite basic; they just screw under the bodywork.
  4. They should come out easily enough; I've done both Herald engines recently and they were a doddle, both cup and dished type, although I did use the seal puller tool pictured on the last page, plus a good hefty screwdriver.
  5. Make them! Mine was an old S&D hardtop that was badly crazed, so the fibreglass was repaired and repainted, the windows are all cut from new perspex and the seals were old bus window rubber seals - they had the correct tight profile of bends. As for clamps etc you can make up your own; same front header-rail catches as the convertible uses but otherwise any kind of bracket or clamp that will match existing fittings at b-posts or under rear deck.
  6. News today is that scientists are pushing for a complete lifting of all Covid restrictions by June 28th. Here's hoping! In the meantime, I hit the North Coast this morning, very early start and breakfast from a forecourt deli; met only one classic which happened to be a gold-coloured TR7 convertible short of Dunluce Castle - all I got was a stony stare through enormous dark shades. Other than a few ancient Italian-style scooters in Bushmills there were no other Classics at all. Scenery was great, though...
  7. It came from Pete's post that the overdrive was originally designed to run on engine oil, but not feasible in our cars due to commonality of gearbox and overdrive oil. I'm sure Smith & Allen is fine, I use Castrol EP90 GL4.
  8. Okay... from block: little 'star-shaped' bit.. then filter... then large 'plug' into filter... spring... steel washer MAY go between casing and spring, but on the outside the rubber / asbestos / fibre washer goes against the casing under the bolt head as a seal. So all you have that differs from the exploded diagram is an extra metal washer that goes between the casing and the internal spring, probably to prevent wear between spring and casing.
  9. It never stops - but a glorious day indeed! Finished cleaning the back room that has just received a new ceiling, cut all my grass, took a load of rubbish to the dump - in fact two trailer fulls - watered all the pot plants, weeded the front flowerbed, and have just finished in time to have a very welcome beer, plus an excellent Chicken Dansak and will now wait for dark to go out meteor spotting. I can feel my forehead burning from the sun - I'll regret that later. Good luck with the packing and moving, here's to a quick settling in and back to normality.
  10. Yes those are the ones. With regards to brass / bronze nuts; I understand the reason for them with mild steel studs so would fit them on the exhaust flange out of mere habit; I've no idea if you could get away with stainless there. Some of the gang here will hopefully advise.
  11. Looks very off-centre... must be the camera angle!!
  12. The stainless studs for the head to manifold came with nuts, spring washers, and flat washers. Full kit and I must admit I'm impressed by how solid they feel. The other kit for the manifold to exhaust also came with the same range of items, but obviously cheap quality and not fit for purpose.
  13. Did you fit a new spring? Current repro versions are too long and slack.
  14. Dolomite 1850 with J-type is a straight fit, bar the wiring for the overdrive which no longer requires a relay, just linked in to the reverse light circuit. I have one myself which did not fit the saloon engine the car originally had but fitted the GT6 Mk2 engine it was uprated with. Clutch is the Dolomite version which fits the splines so if the box number is 1850 then that's the clutch to go for.
  15. You'll get some metal particles in the gearbox oil but it shouldn't be excessive; after all it has to come off somewhere inside. It may be that it just has not been maintained in a long while, but try a magnetic drain plug and watch what sticks to it - but only after a few oil changes to flush out the old particles. Then you'll know if anything is still being ground off. As for additives... I was always told to avoid any kind of additive on overdrives, certainly any of the slippery versions that will wreck it - maybe someone here can advise if anything is overdrive safe if needed? Same for the diff - good oil is adequate. Paddocks sell a 140 grade which sadly they won't post to me but I always wanted to try it.
  16. Possibly accessibility? With a stud you need to position the unit so that it slides onto the stud, so it takes an inch or two more space than just setting the unit in place and inserting a bolt. On the other hand, it was probably cost.
  17. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254809108713 I've tried these as manifold to head studs and nuts... motorcyclists seem to be very fond of them but no doubt time will tell! I reckon there should be less heat at that part of things than the exhaust flange, so it will get the Spalding fasteners as a trial. The biggest problem with the studs / nuts I bought is that while the studs screwed into the manifold - eventually - none of the nuts I had, either mild steel, stainless or bronze fitted the other end, so I could neither adapt or replace anything else, or even use two nuts to screw the studs to manifold.
  18. A picture is worth a few megabytes, as they say...
  19. I drove a Mitsubishi Starion for a short while back in the 1980s and it had a lever to the right of the centre tunnel, like a second handbrake; when you pulled it a little symbol with a star illuminated on the dashboard. I'd no idea of what it did but used to move it about as I drove... turns out it was overdrive, but never made any difference to the driving that I'm aware of. On the Landrover yellow was pushed down for four wheel drive and the red pulled back for low ratio.
  20. Two days left, no watchers - collection only puts a lot of bidders off. Last set I bought was £40 so sometimes they don't go for big money.
  21. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294129853799?hash=item447b816567:g:dlUAAOSwGAJgfCaN Four for £25. Says collection only so you can either send a Courier or get someone local to collect then send them on to you.
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