Colin Lindsay

Well spotted!! As confirmed in Doug's post the rear shoe should have the liner towards the top, higher than the front shoe, so the handbrake notch will be diagonally opposite.

Position 72 Half inch, and I was going to guess UNF until I saw Pete's post above - we posted simultaneously - what's 20 TPI in imperial? Isn't that the same as UNF?

You can paraphrase me, if you want. "My bank account is empty so it's a great incentive to maximise the efficiency of what I have already... as there won't be anything else... !"

It depends on the finish you yourself want. If you want blue, you'll have to remove all the old underseal then a good primer and stonechip will prime nicely for the topcoat. If you just want a durable finish then you can rub down with a wire brush, kill the rust with Jenolite (if they still sell that sort of thing) and brush new underseal over it all. Main thing is to either kill or remove the rust, down to bare metal, then you can prime with a good rustkilling primer, stonechip on top and finally topcoat. I'd get a fine wire wheel attachment for a drill or grinder and take that rust right back, then treat and spray. Having said that, both my GT6 and my TR7 have black wheelarches as it was much easier than removing all of the old underseal that a PO had brushed on. Once the wheels are on, it's hard to see.

Yeah it's amazing how blind some of them can be. When you do get past, a glare usually results in a blank expression. "What'd I do?" I had an orange revolving one of those, ran on D cell batteries and had a big suction cup, so at a mates house warming, after a few drinks, we decided the music needed lighting too. Got it from the car boot, stuck it to his newly plastered ceiling, and after a few minutes it dropped to the floor with a huge piece of plaster attached. AND it shattered into bits too.

Ooooohhhhh... nice.

Yes Iain... been there too many times! Taken a car, modified it, tuned it and added all sorts of nice bits... then sold it and someone else enjoyed all that work! Thankfully I've more or less better sense these days.

I was thinking that by the time you pay for all those bits, you may as well have bought a Vitesse...

No, he's just realised what the Vet did to him. No protrusions. Is that a catastrophe?

Yikes!

I've no excuse, having had Defenders, Series 3s and my fav the TD5 Discovery. i made the mistake of assuming that as Landrover suppliers the parts would be fit for those at least. You learn the hard way.

I must admit I looked at that post and thought: 15 or 16 inch protrusion.... hmmmm. I reckon it would probably feel okay. Not offering, though.

Even my nipples are green....brake nipple covers, that is. The black ones that came with the caliper refurbishing kit are too small, and too hard to stretch. Thankfully I have a bag of green ones to replace them with. The caliper repair kit also had retaining clips that were far too short and allowed air, and therefore moisture, up the back of the seal. Binned and replaced with the old ones. The type 14 calipers I'm using on the 1200 have cleaned up very well; I have replacement pistons in both mild and stainless steel but these pistons are very good with no pitting nor damage to the chrome. The seals are always a bit fiddly but much easier than the late GT6 versions I also did recently. If Storm Ciara wasn't blowing my roof off at present I could do a 'before and after' shot but I'm not risking my life out there, even with a caliper or two to weigh me down... Following your advice Pete I've gone for a solid prop; blasted and just repainted. It was a bit of a problem to sandblast it but I got there eventually. I've also had to buy replacement UJs as the Britpart ones I bought are rubbish, so I've gone for more GKNs even if it means no coffees out next week. I would have had it all fitted this afternoon but forgot to order diff bearings along with the oil seals, so that will hold me back another few days. I'll crack on with the handbrake cable fitting and adjusting the levers under the car while I'm waiting.

I did, too... have you seen my thread on rubbish UJs? Today's gripe is brake caliper refurbishing kits... I've rebuilt one of the type 14s I'm using on the Herald and despite the seals being awkward to fit with only two hands they got there eventually... almost. The spring clip that holds them in place is half an inch - at least - shorter than the original. Do they just put these parts on a sheet of paper and draw round them? Thankfully I hadn't binned the originals and could reuse them; they actually were quite good. We really do need to complain more... or at least, I do.

You don't need end float for side shafts; it's only four allen-key headed bolts that require re-tightening on reassembly. I've just finished two and they're simple enough. A spring clip holds the bearing on; it'll press off very simply then there's just an oil seal to push out. Reassembly takes minutes. I don't think (needs a second opinion!) that you even need to take the diff off. If it's the front (pinion) seal that's a bit more complicated. It might be just a blocked breather; reach up in round, just above the rear bush, and you'll find a split pin - jiggle it about and free up the hole it sits in to let pressure out as you drive and things warm up.

This is the dilemma. Sometimes we use original parts simply because they're what was fitted at the time, and after losing paint, patience and probably skin, go to the more modern alternative which fits first time. Modern brake line clips will do nicely.

Never mind Corona virus, I almost had a coronary but a bottle of Corona will help later.

So.... just terminals 1 and 2 (earth and live respectively) - mine isn't fitted so I have no cables to guide. NEVER EVER believe that you should wire it back to front in order to overcome a worn drive gear... this was bandied about in the early 1990s and of course I tried it, and melted the loom. I bought a new loom and connected it up, using the old and incorrectly marked loom as a reference... oops. Lots of smoke from under the dash. I think when I refit mine there'll be an inline fuse too. Given the price of replacement motors I didn't want to fry those too, so thought I'd ask. Thanks!

Just spent the last two hours trying to fit Britpart UJs to a Herald; actually the first hour trying to fit them and the last hour swearing, gathering up needle rollers and trying to remove them again. They are rubbish. For anyone tempted to try them - I got these from a reputable Landrover specialist - they are boxed Britpart, with the code number TVF100000 and supposedly for Freelander 1. There is a small metal collar with a very flimsy rubber seal that detaches if you even breathe on it; I had one fitted and reckoned it was quite tight, so removed it again to find that the seal had come off and gone down inside. Once disturbed the seals just fall off, the tin collar distorts really easily, and the needle rollers all fall about inside. I dug out a GKN version and had it fitted in thirty seconds. If you look at the heavy rubber collar on the GKN and compare it with the thin metal collar on the Britpart version, you'll see why they're so hard to fit. I'm debating sending the remainder - I bought four - to Britpart to check if they're really counterfeits. Now I have to order two more and wait for those arriving...

The Herald single speed variety. I've melted two wiring looms over the years wiring these up wrong (in one case, to be a smart ass, and the other, forgetting what I had done originally and melting the replacement loom) If I want to test a few of these with a 12v battery, which wires to what for simple, non-thermal testing?

Just being a critic, Simon, as it's easy from the comfort of a warm study... Last thing I want, after all that hard work, is a simple fail on the MOT that has you head scratching and thinking "Why didn't I see that?"

Try softening them in boiling water for a time first. I had to look up the spec and confirm that it's the same setup as the Herald, but mine for the Herald are quite soft and fit with no problems. The ones on Rimmer's site, for example, look to be very solid and thick rubber. I don't know if it would be wise to advise cutting them in half; might work in the short term, but no idea if it would affect their longevity.

The Mintex site has a very short warning which states: Avoid hard or aggressive braking for the first 200 miles. I've managed to find another site which claims: Steady braking for the first 50 miles, avoiding emergency stops. From the leaflet with the pads, it says: "Bedding in Procedure Apply 2-3 Light Applications of the brakes at 30mph down to 0mph Apply 3-4 Steady Applications of the brakes at 70mph down to 30mph Leave as long as possible to cool down. DO NOT LEFT FOOT BRAKE"

Are you allowed to have clutch and brake lines touching like that? (Bit on the bulkhead with cable tie holding them together) I always believed they had to be spaced apart to minimise damage from rubbing?

Or simply speed related? Something blowing about underneath when over a certain speed? Make sure it's not the rad moving back into the fan and hitting the blades as air resistance pushes it back - check everything that might come into contact with fan blades.