PeteH

I used a Vernier caliper, for the above dimensions. Pete.

So what can be used now?. Its 20+years since I painted anything more than a small item. Needs to be useable in a (realtively) confined space as the Motorhome blocks getting it outside, and thats on SORN so cannot be moved onto public roads. Pete

Your welcome, Went back in the garage after lunch, and the section in question had slipped from it`s suspended "perch", damn near took an eye out. So while I was contemplating it`s re-arangement back in the roof of the garage. I put it in place for the "photo shoot". Thinking laterally, I supect the bracket is Spot welded?. might you be able to drill out the spots, replace the bolt/stud and plug weld back in place?. even fabricate a new bracket?. The whole hood arangement is a weird afair. When I`ve finished out in the yard, fencing and Patio Cover building, my next move is replacing the wiring loom. Pete

Hi. Been back inthe garage earlier today and had another look, and some pic`s. The rear two sections form up like the old fashioned perambulator hood and they bolt independently to the said bolt. Hope this helps Pete

No. thats only a little pile. This one 53.886031252090625, -0.31644526527745975 is very, very, good stuff. Just had a Trailer load for the Raised beds. Pete

Thanks Guys. I`d forgotton that. Early day ships H-V alternators had a separate Coil/Winding to supply the main field coils, bloody long time since I did all that theory. If it comes on and the motor is running, you usually finish up having to get the "girl friend" to remove her tights!.😃 Pete

We have the Robot "Hoover" for indoors. It`s class entertainment, watching the dog, watching the device, and barking at it if it gets too close to "her" bit of mat. I have some short clips of video I think?. Too big to download. Grass we don`t have since we moved back into the village propper. Once a season power wash of the pavers, Job dun, as the Scout said. Pete

I fitted "electronic" ignition to the Vittesse in the 1980`s. (so long back I cannot remember who`s) It did improve starting, and If I recall less ignition "drift" due to wear etc; (Mrs P was using it as her commuter). It became more reliable, definitely. I havent checked properly, but I think the 13/60 engine came with a unit fitted. something to look at later. For the type/volume of motoring I anticipate, I doubt if going too sophisticated (expensive) would be cost effective though. For some obscure reason I also recall that using a low voltage ballast resister Coil was Not advised?, but cannot think why offhand?. Pete

I think, Looking at the 13/60 wiring diagramme, (Making an assumption that it IS similar to the Spit) that IF you have a 12V Coil and no ballast resister, then the start solenoid only needs 3 terminals. (Which is what is shown on my 13/60 wiring diag;) However IF you have a low votage Coil then you DO need the 4th terminal, to bypass the Ballast resister ONLY during cranking, as feeding the Coil continuously at 12V will accelerate burnout. Pete

On the Vittesse only the early ones can be serviced. (1983 edition Haynes, Vittesse or GT6) I note the phrase " The Impellor should then be soldered to the shaft to prevent seepage". Pete

I had for many years a C reg Hightop Mitsuibushi Shogun. It was fitted it with a Front mounted Tow Ball (removable). The number of Caravans that towed off wet/muddy rally sites on a Sunday afternoon was legion. 50p a throw, went ito the RNLI. one of it last big jobs was towing this:- Yeovil In Somerset to East Yorkshire, Got some Strange looks!. The Shed was full of Garage stuff, and the Patio Furniture was lashed Behind the shed. Including Two flowering shrubs in Pots!. On the M1. Plod passed at great speed, then his Brake lights went on!, and he dropped back to see, Pair of them went on their way laughing. Pete

This looks like the section?. The curved hood rail on the left, mounts to the shouldered bolt welded in the bracket. Took me ages to work it out, I wanted to dry fit the hood frame to make sure it did not foul the Belt reels when it was stowed. There is no part number shown for that fastener as far as I can see?. Pete

"Chelsea Tractors"?

Some years back locally they got them wrong. Result the Buses (low floor jobs) where grounding. And the Paramedics where up in arms as they where having issues with tending to patients on the run. In the end they lowerd them and cut the sides away to acomodate commercial chassis. Pete

You get a lot of that on the "motorhome" sites (looks skyward), The "I got stuck in a muddy field", with my front wheel drive 3.5t+ M-H. Dug in up to the axles!!. So next time park it on some cut down bread crates or similar, try reversing a bit first before you go for it, try higher gear low speed crawl. etc; But no they have to "go for it", the wheels start to spin, and dig a hole they cannot get out of without help!. But then most of the world never did physiscs at school nor anywhere else. Too busy doing "media studies" to become Media "stars". End of rant!. Pete

Might I suggest?. You could struggle with replacing the bolt. Solution?, Might be to put a short length of Stud through into a Nut and weld the whole solid. If you need a shoulder, a piece of light tubing might suffice?. (thinking laterally here). I have access to a lathe so shoulderd studs would be possible. Though probably only in metric. I "lost" my A-F taps and dies some years ago, borrowed and not returned. Pete EDIT:- It takes "rear stick assembly" (Canley Item 50 convertible hood, https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-herald-13/60&diagram=triumph-herald-13/60-convertible-hood) On My 13/60, Hole in the frame is 3/8" shoulder is 3/8" and aprox 3/16wide. overall the stud is 5/8" long (Plus the head) the O/D of the thread is 5/16 (24TPI?) which equates to 1/2 AF spanner size? Pete

I`m currently using it to protect the "new" wiring for the PAS. I have considered wrapping some chafed sections of the 13/60 harness, especially where it passes through the "hidden places" and where it goes under the "B" post. I have some issues with the 16/60 harness. So will likely start a new thread soon. Pete

It will be anathema to the purists. But more modern "classics" moved over to the "split convoluted" type of Shielding/covering. which is available online at moderate cost?. BTW, "self amalgamating" tape can be useful especially finishing off loose ends?. Pete

In the past I have often replaced them with properly Crimped items. Nasty little things IMHO. Very prone to creating poor conections. You used to be able to get the solder type?. Pete

The haynes GT6/Vittesse manual does not show any particular Front rear division. But on the 13/60 Herald you can part front and rear looms Behind the seat panel on the passenger side Rear. Might be worth a look?. Pete

Can I just make an observation?. Using "mini" (for want of the better description) Nut`s. Gives just one sliding (frictional) surface when torqueing, Using a Separate washer, gives two. Whilst it will be marginal the actual applied torque will be very slightly different. That difference especially on the 3/8" studs could make a difference to the actual force applied to the head?. Pete

I cannot find a decent copy of what the 13/60 wiring SHOULD be like. there are some "Suposed" ones on the net. but I supect they are for earlier cars (12/50 for instance?). My Haynes does not cover the 13/60, and the Vittesse manual whilst it give a few clues, again I cannot rely on. Any idea`s?. As I am at the stage where there is no more welding to do, so I could proceed to reinstall the loom(s). As for 21/5 lamps. Most (all?) of the ones I have are offset linearly along the centre line of the bulb holder?. Per; Joe Lucas. Pete

Yes, I wish my 13/60 had been that good!. I wouldnt have had to spend XXXXHrs cutting out a fitting fidley litle parts!. Pete

Speculation?. But It could be one of those situations where it was thought to be a "good idea" on the early models. But dropped on later models for reasons of Time and Cost?. Altering things to facilitate operations on the production line is not exactly unknown?. "Shaving" to save pennies per? is a favourite of the "Bean Counters". Pete

Sounds daft, but could they simply be just there to (help) stop "stuff" in the boot getting behind into the wheel arch space behind the Side trim panel?. Is there a trim piece which fits the space?. (none shown of the 13/60 spares book) Pete