Jump to content

PeteH

TSSC Member
  • Posts

    5,209
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    52

Everything posted by PeteH

  1. I hope not. I replaced mine (`71- 13/60) with 8?mm copper. It apeared to be the nearest to the existing Corroded steel pipe which was removed. Pete
  2. PeteH

    Loosing weight

    Is that not how most Triumph "projects" start out. (with holes).?๐Ÿ˜ข
  3. PeteH

    Loosing weight

    Watched a programe, about getting a replica "chitty bang bang" to fly, quite apart from the hillarlity, and expense. At one point the guys where so into "weight saving". they where drilling and machining holes virtually everywhere. Pete
  4. According to "Wikki". The standard power plant was Rolls Royce?. "six cylinder 4.26 litre water-cooled Rolls Royce B.60 petrol engine." An "inlet over Exhaust" valve arangement too. Also Fitted to the Austin Champ. "jeep". AND, Wait for it, Vanwall, ran modified Alloy block B60`s putting out 200+hp in racing during the 50`s good enough to collect a constructors chamionship!. Aparently using Modified Norton "Manx" Heads!. Pete
  5. I have looked into this before. I found one issue to be that very few (if any) are TRUE "High Lift" jacks. In fact some struggle to get the wheels far enough off the ground to work effectively!. I have an (Elderly) Sealy 3 tonne, which will just about get high enough to get axle stands under My little P107 Daily. If I want more clearance I am then using blocks on the jack to get a "second bite". The only one I can find with a Very High (720mm) lift is this one:- https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tjh15-professional-long-chassis-trolley-jack?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6YCA5vPj7wIVDNPtCh13wQytEAQYASABEgISHfD_BwE. Pete
  6. I think, (not always the best idea) as I said you will have to be careful, Assumng as john said, their is no limitation at the bottom of the tapped holes, then torqueing up correctly should be no issue. Having the right length of thread in said holes to take the Strain would be the limiting factor. And the choice of Bolt material. Pete
  7. Neither does Bill. who owns this one. Just off the the Pub. Not a Ferrett though Pete
  8. I`m thinking a little Pedantry here, so bear with me. As I see it the studs bottom out in the Casing? (I think) and as such have the maximum thread length and by definition the full ("tensile") strength of the threads. If however you fail to get a full depth, the strength of the bolt will be compromised?. And if they bottom out before they exert the full tension on the Spring you could have a "loose/slack" spring but the correct torque reading?. To acheive the desired end will need very very carefull management. Pete
  9. It`s (quite) a while since I did them on the 13/60, so bear with me. But I seem to recall having to "spread" the Wishbone very slightly to get the Sleeve into place?. I am assuming, (none of the manual`s/advises confirm), that the sleeve is "hardened up" and the bushes rotate on the sleeve, NOT (the sleeve) on the bolt? (which IMV would be pointless?). Pete
  10. Earthing, on vehicles is the source of much head scratching!. New(er) canbus systems are even worse. I am advised that because of the (relatively) tiny currents involved, any poor earthing can cause BIG issues. Case in question, Early day Vauxhall Astra, (Co Car) gave me no end of issues. As with many early OBD systems, when switched off, the error was lost!. Every time the "Error Light" appeared, into the nearest Vauxhall delership it went, only to come out and repeat a few days weeks later. Until, Young Tech; who had just done the Makers course, Cleaned and re-made most of the earthing points. Job Sorted!!. 10V Neg Earth Regulator, solid state.? circa ยฃ1 on e-bay. u7810. Pete
  11. Hmm!. that`s interesting, not just because I could not log on, which prompted me to do some checking. My Membership lapsed during the the last lockdown!. So now I have to chase up and re-new. Dohh!. Are H O working normal hours currently?. Or on short time?. Pete
  12. When it comes to reinstalling the "Kit" to the door. I found an old duvet was a great help?. (to protect paint, not to sleep on!) Pete
  13. I assume, the vehicle is already IN the UK?. Dry states are good as far as corrsion, or the lack thereoff, is concerned, The drawback being lots of the "rubber" degrades in excessive heat! ( I self imported a 1984 R-V (motorhome) in 1997, from North Carolina). LHD is not the big issue, you learn to cope, quickly. You have the advantage that the origin is UK. Wellcome to the world of "Triumph fettling". Pete
  14. Thank`s. The lathe, Is a 1944 Drumond, which was consigned to the skip at a Dairy in Somerset 30 years ago before I rescued it. It really needs a thorough overhaul itself, but for the "little" jobs it works. One day I may just refurbish it properly. Got to tackle the Brake set-up next!. The skill set. Is the result of a 5 Year aprenticeship as a Millwright. We got to work with just about everything. Good grounding for a career at a Marine engineer. But more pressing, is the issue of the cill alignment. The cause of much head scratching at the moment. And I am currently "employed" as SWMBO`s "head gardener". Pete
  15. PeteH

    Fuel cap vent

    I suspect the answer is yes. If the tank is unvented, it can lead to fuel starvation. Early Ford Escourt`s had a vent (location) that was prone to being blocked by road crap. You knew when the car started to hunt and on rare ocasions stop altogether. The answer was to run with the cap Loose and clean the vent ASAP. Some resorted to relocating the Vent outlet, basically just a plasicky rubber tube. Pete
  16. The doors line up nicely with rear tub. but they (it) is (near) 1/2 inch almost proud of the cill, when the cill is postioned correctly behind the tub. IF I put it in front it`s much better. If I adjust the Door to sit closer to the cill. the line with the rear tub is out!. The door itself, has only had a lower section replaced, not fully re-skinned. I am asuming that the issue could be to do with the amount of steel that had to be replaced in both tubs. Despite being extremely careful with measuring some distortion is I suppose inevitable. Pete
  17. PeteH

    Car cover

    I am constantly amazed at just what the average Horticultural "polytunnel" with withstand, especially if it is oriented side on to the prevaliing windage. We have a large number local to us in a huge Market Garden. And they seen to have lasted for years. Pete
  18. Been playing with mine (Clutch Master cyl) for the last 2 days, It was full of dried C88p. In the end I moved it with boiling water and Dishwasher tablets. Re asembled and tested overnight in a vice.๐Ÿ‘ The next move was the weld up the "oval" hole in the brake pedal and ream it to 8.5mm. Nearly finished Turning a "bespoke" clevis pin!. The Pivot pin was seized solid in the Pedal, succumed to Plus Gas overnight and a drive via the vice and 2 sockets, a quick polish in the lathe๐Ÿ‘, restored propper motion. Got to tackle the Brake Pedal/Master-cyl Next. Pete
  19. PeteH

    Car cover

    SWMBO, Had the "treatment" on her Nissan, New, after 3 years never garaged. No fading and it sheds bird poo. after a decent shower of rain. Pete
  20. PeteH

    Car cover

    Gerald Willey, AKA. Ronnie Barker, wrote many Sketches. Able seaman Johnson. With Leslie Philips, and Jon Pertwee. AKA Dr Who (4). Pete
  21. I am not 100% Sure BUT. behind a rubber plug on the front side of the door is a set screw. I think it may be possible to incline the quarter light to the rear?. I have read somewhere that the Windscreens can be pulled backwards over time Especially on C-V`s closing the top gap, more so if the "A" post is weak.????. Others may have first hand experience. Pete
  22. Now all I need is someone to tell my why I have an 1/2" gap between the Cills and the doors.๐Ÿ˜Ÿ. With all the other shut lines looking "reasonable". Pete.
  23. Yes Pete, I`ve wondered about that. Did you use seperate Bonds. Or just run a Cable to the Rear from the Battery? (negative). Pete
  24. Took these earlier to-day. If of any Help:- Pete
ร—
ร—
  • Create New...