25mm but get a AF set and use 15/16 AF but a short bit of scrap tubing with an ID of 1 inch would do the job with a large washer on the end .
You could probably get a 1 inch straight copper solder joint or gas barrel joint from the plumbing shop that would do the job.
When the fan belt broke on my car I was surprised how quick it overheated because the water pump had stopped. It could be the water pump is not working as well as it should ie corroded fins or the impeller has fallen off.
Hi Aidan
Probably as I have mine by post every month on subscription, but It did arrive a week or so ago. You may need to ask as I have noticed WH Smiths seem to have reduced their car reading section shelf.
Workshop article in the latest Practical Classics mag(November issue) on control cable fix's may be worth a read. On my kitcar I bought a long diesel stop cable/wire and outer from the local motor factors and then grafted it to the Triumph puller assembly.
Another problem can be when a big saloon six that lays over normally is used in an upright position in the small chassis and the sump is a different shape.
Another option is to drill a small hole adjacent to the ratchet cog for a small screw driver to insert and manually actuate the cog. Then bung the hole with a grommet.
The black wire is the earth connection back to the loom.
I would crop the old one off as close to the old unit as possible and put an eyelet on it to go under the mounting nut on the new one.
Thanks Pete,
Aiden, It may pay to track down a local member and take him as passenger noise spotter or perhaps there is a local meet near you that could possibly help.
If something is rubbing it would normally leave a shiny mark somewhere.
James
If your set on using the solid clamps try dressing the mating faces of the alloy blocks off so they don't butt together before clamping the rack tube. Also mount the clamps as far outboard as the chassis plate allows then they should be tight against the plates on the rack.