Ben Caswell

Surely the drive shaft will try to push and pull within the yoke as a roll pin by its design is not a full circle and will compress as it is a sprung open "C" shape closes. I agree that if the yoke is shrunk on it is less likely to move but it is working against push/pull loads. The original Triumph shafts had solid pins I would have though they would have used roll pins if they were suitable as they would be easier to fit.

You normally retire to the bedroom for sex so you should just be starting.

Hmmm I'm not an engineer(well only self taught) but work on the Colin Chapman theory, "If it looks right it probably is right" That don't look right to me. PS my editor says those pictures I have already are OK so thank for that. Regards Ben

Is it me or has the new shaft got a roll pin ??

Thanks Roger, Those pics are really clear so will do the trick just missed my last deadline so will be a little while now. Thanks again Ben

I think they need to understand that the drive shaft is also part of the suspension and the fact that it not only turns but it also pushes and pulls as the suspension works under load. The roll pin is getting compressed as its not solid. Roger I help the Marlin Owners Club with the Triumph based cars and would like to flag this up in a forth coming mag. Can I borrow your pictures which show the problem quite clearly. Ben Caswell.

HATS OFF to you but you must admit that poor old car is working for its supper?‍♂️

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-P4-P5-P5B-P6-RADIATOR-ENGNE-BLOCK-WATER-DRAIN-BRASS-TAP-/372267345457

Slide a sheet of hardboard or similar down the back of the rad before trying to lift it out will save mangling the fins.

With the key in the barrel turn to on position, then on the side of the body there is a small hole insert a small screw driver or drill bit or similar and press while pulling the barrel with the key and it should come out.

It could be the battery has failed

See previous Vitesse 1600 thread Members 23 137 posts Report post Posted yesterday at 11:19 AM I have suggested this before with a members car using quite a bit of oil, and that was to not keep topping up the oil to the top mark, Like my car I find if you let it go till its about half way between the marks the consumption settles down considerably. Then just keep the top up to that level.

I have suggested this before with a members car using quite a bit of oil, and that was to not keep topping up the oil to the top mark, Like my car I find if you let it go till its about half way between the marks the consumption settles down considerably. Then just keep the top up to that level.

The belled end that holds the switches is spot welded(X4) to the column tube just above the top bush.

May be thats why they allowed over 40's to be exempt!! saves on the tester training content.

I thought the markings were 4 deg apart on the vernier and it takes about 50 clicks between each mark that would make it about 11 0r 12 clicks per degree.

In the close up pic of the coil it looks like a yellow wire is chafing against the neg terminal worth moving anyway. Ben

How do you measure the value of capacitance ??

Just measure it across the flats for"AF" size socket !!

Biggest risk is the accumulation of fuel vapors heavier than air including petrol and butanes mixing with unsafe electrical equipment. The following is taken from HSE Guidance note 261 (2009) . Preventing fire and asphyxiation 228 Pits are likely to have poor natural ventilation so the release of any low flashpoint substance or heavier-than-air gas above or near a pit can create fire/ explosion and asphyxiation risks. To reduce these risks: ■ ■ do not carry out pit work on non-diesel tanks or associated fuel lines where there is a risk of release. Do not carry out any hot work on or near any tank or fuel line, including diesel systems; do not store portable LPG heaters, or other LPG-fuelled devices, in or near pits ■ ■ in case they leak; before carrying out pit work on air-conditioning units, empty the refrigerant with ■ ■ a proprietary system well away from the pit area; do not weld in a pit unless effective local exhaust ventilation is provided;■ ■ use fixed lighting in the pit that is suitable for potentially explosive atmospheres ■ ■ and conforms to a suitable standard; use handlamps of special construction, that have been designed and tested to ■ ■ prevent ignition in flammable atmospheres (see paragraphs 266-283 for further details); do not leave vehicles idling over pits unless there is dedicated exhaust extraction. Always think about your own safety and means of exit.

In the picture of the rad in the car it looks like the water pump is fitted one bolt further round as I think you can see the weep hole that should be at the bottom. Good to hear of good service

I think Andrew is describing an issue with turning the steering wheel left to right it seems the sliding clamp is not pulling up tight. Not sure what the cure would be other than to take the whole assembly out and dress the flat part of the top column ???

I fear the external oil feed that increases the flow to the rocker gear may have robbed the cam of its share of the oil. Also depending on which sump you used with which dipstick would effect the working oil reserve in the sump as the oil level will change with the engine in the upright position.

The paint on the block seems to have blistered just in front of the dizzy where the cam runs could this be a sign of things getting very hot in the cam bearing. I would also cut open the oil filter to see what you find in there. I hope you wasn't running an external rocker feed as that may have robbed the cam of oil pressure. Sorry stating the obvious after reading all of your first post.

The mark down the bore looks like where the oil control ring had parked for a period of time leaving either a rust or acid mark????