Ben Caswell

Looks very similar to a Presto cap perhaps this kit would help?? http://ceandess.online/product/presto-75-non-locking-refurbishment-kit-02518003kit

Some say use two washers

It looks to me that the 3/4th fork(Which is the front synchro hub) is in the 4th position it needs to be in between 3rd and 4th(neutral). From front to rear its top 4th then 3rd on the front hub then 2nd then 1st on the rear hub.

Its a bit like the packer that sometimes is found under the front suspension tower ?? in my case the L/H on a Vitesse.... another mystery to me.

If the head has had an unleaded conversion its possible that one of the inserts has dropped out but I would think you would find one of the valve clearances being held open more than normal.

OH NO thats another T shirt Colin

WSM says 10 ft/lbs but perhaps the taper causes it to be difficult to undo. Probably best to follow Petes advice and leave it alone.

All the diagrams in my WSM's show the bolt head up nut down. You need to remove the square headed taper locking pin from the selector and the withdraw the shaft. with the shaft bolt head up at least it wont fall out if the nut comes off. The O rings go in the remote housing where the shaft goes through.

You need to note that its not actually an adjuster screw you need to push against the spring and then turn to engage the alternative setting. Other wise you shear off the locating pin. "Got the T shirt for that one" Sorry Pete realize now you pointed that out.

So how much does all the insulation weigh is it still a light weight?

Well they are a cut above the rest!!

The green wire that goes to the indicators needs to connest to green and red on the main harness for the right and green and white for the left. Six months after rebuilding a Mk1 Vitesse complete with MOT I noticed a driver at a roundabout suggesting with hand signals that I was indicating left and went to the right. And yes when the bonnet went back on the wires had been connected the wrong way round and until then nobody had noticed.Well they were working!! OOPS.

Home made repair strips bent with a hammer!! for the side rails and spray the underside with underseal. Well it was an original low mileage one owner but I don't call that a sympathetic restoration.

Good to get a final result well done.

Hope the centre plate is round the right way

Check that the throttle spindle link between the carbs hasnt slipped allowing one carb to be held open off the stop.

Could be the voltage stabilizer playing up watch the fuel gauge if that climbs up to full at the same time then thats your suspect.

www.170v.de/yabbfiles/Attachments/RepairTemperatureGauge-rev1-022014.pdf couldnt get this to go as a link but its worth a read just google capillary gauge repair

My guess is that the throttle lever has two cables connecting to it, the second one for a kick down on an automatic. Application would be on a tag under a screw on the dashpot.

They go classic racing in Malta https://www.timesofmalta.com/articles/view/20161008/local/driver-unhurt-as-car-overturns-at-malta-classic-grand-prix.627350 Somewhere there is also a video from inside a competitive Mk3 Spitty

Held on with little sprung clips over the edge of the wheel arch.

Makes a change from blowing your own trumpet !!

I refer to my advice above which worked for another member worrying about oil consumption.

A similar system in the Haynes manual for the Dolomite shows they are all junctions and each symbol gives the location of the junction. In this example a circle in a circle is a column junction, diagonal line is the facia, cross is body, horizontal line gearbox,cross with top and bottom section blacked out is hazard switch. Not sure these match your drawing application are you sure there is not a key on another page or diagram. Haynes Morris Marina manual uses same system but sadly no key on any drawings there either.

http://www.kito.co.jp/en/data/download/_id_147_content_spec_type_pdf.pdf Item 9 trouble shooting