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Badwolf

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Everything posted by Badwolf

  1. Unless, of course, there is someone in goverment/a position of power who has an extensive collection of classic cars!! (Thoughts courtesy of Lady BW)
  2. Time for the CoM to get together with other clubs to lobby MPs. Triumph948, one for you I believe.
  3. You should already have 3 anchor points for static (top of wheel arch, floor by door & bottom of trans tunnel) and need 4 for inertia. I don't know about the mk2, but on my mark iv there is an anchorage point under the vinyl trim where the wheel arch meets the raised section of floor behind the seat. I didn't realise that it was there until I spotted it from the outside, in the wheelarch, while changing a rear wheel. Worth a quick look unless someone else who knows, says you need to start drilling and welding.
  4. Stupid question coming up.... how do you know if its a three or single rail?
  5. Further to Clive's post this may be worth a look. It offered me a little help when I had problems. It may not solve your problems but it is interesting... http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/RaisingOilPressure.htm
  6. Tony - It was the Wilko 'classic' that I used. Wanted a sort of flushing oil after the car had been laid up, before putting in something fairly decent. Ended up getting 4 'gallons' of Classic Oils Hertage at a discount and free carriage on a fleabay sitewide discount day so very reasonable price in the end. Should see me and probably tbe car to the end of our days!!
  7. I had a similar problem with oil pressure readings last year. Ok til warm then low reading/warning light. Replaced both pressure warning light sensor and oil pressure releif valve and all now fine. It was running on Wilko 20/50 oil but now replaced with Classic Oils Heritage 20/50 and running nicely at the moment. The last time I made a comment about something running well, it failed the next week!!
  8. You should start a second-hand parts business, mail order of course. Quality second-hand parts (except for those you need for your cars) off the shelf to order. Think of the fun you could have getting your own back on all those delivery companies that have ripped you off for excess carriage to NI over the years.
  9. Colin - Go on, you know you want to!!! Think of all those spares!! I'll bet he wants substantially more than £100 for it.
  10. Has anyone pursued this listing? it still appears to be live. I don't want it but am very interested in the outcome.
  11. I replaced mine after only being on the car for about 6 months due to the reports of poor quality rubber bushes. I thought that they would be easier to extract as they only had a few hundred miles on them. How wrong can you be, but I think it was worth the effort. Had I known what was to be in store (https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/2623-bonnet-headlight-panel-replacement-nose-to-tail-1972-spitfire-mkiv-restoration-upgrades/?page=28), I would have waited 'til it came out of the car.
  12. If you haven't already done it, you might want to change the eye bushes to polybush before you fit the spring. They are a s*d to get out when the spring is on the car. Better to use a vice and two sockets to press out.
  13. Perhaps the club should buy up this sort of thing to sell on to members or repair as a project at hq. Possibly even strip for spares through the shop. As well as 'twiddle day' we could do 'stripper days'. Just a crazy idea!!
  14. Is this a serious ad? The text says open to offers and "Do not go by the asking price as it would not let me continue the advert without putting a number in". Wasn't there a dodgy advert for a spitfire a few weeks ago? The number plate is worth a couple of grand on its own.
  15. Nick - Am I missing something here. It looks like the sill is only rivetted on or has it been spot welded or chemically bonded.
  16. I've always been a bit wary about adjusting tappets, hence they haven't been done for ages. Engine sounds a bit like a sewing machine on tick over. Is there anything that can be done to cause damage, like over tightening?
  17. I have managed to track down some more pictures of the plates that I am fitting, so along with Colin's picture I am good to go. Good job I've have had a look, as it turns out that most of the spot welds on the repair plates haven't penetrated and a sharp twist with a screwdriver brought them away. Also, as expected, the insides of two overlapping plates were rusting away happily. Here we go again!!
  18. Colin - Tried all my usual sources with no luck. The word appears to be stainless steel or spray a zinc plated bolt with chrome hobby paint. Sorry.
  19. You can rejuvenate wax-oyl to a certain extent by brushing it over with paraffin and then, if you want, reapplying a new coat on top. Dinitrol appears to be the best at the moment but I don't know if they are compatible. I have some old wax-oyl which had gone hard when I left the top off the can for months. Mixed it with some paraffin and no problem.
  20. This is what I am working with .. and this. Two sheets have been overlaid and spot welded. the front edge is very sharp. My main worry is the 3 dimensional nature, and getting it right.
  21. Colin - Thanks. A good start. I have just updated my post to include a picture of what I am putting in. It is interesting that the 'web' at the front is inset and not flush to the side of the wing.
  22. Does anyone have any photos of the headlight area of a MkIV Spitfire/GT6 bonnet from above and below. Preferably without the headlight cowl. I am replacing the 'restored' steel on either side with new shop bought panels. The problem is that I don't have anything original to go on. What I am removing is just badly welded sheet steel with the appropriate holes hacked in it. I would be grateful for anything. All the photos on the web are very low resolution and while they give an idea are not really good enough. These are the half panels that I am using.
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