Badwolf
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Everything posted by Badwolf
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Back to a previous post. Does anyone know if production of the KYB rear shock absorbers for a MkIV Spitfire has ceased. After the positive comments on the forum, I have been trying to get a pair. Everyone is out of stock. One supplier even sent me a single unit after I had ordered a pair!! Looks like I am going to have to get a pair of Monroes, even though they get mixed reviews here. The posh stuff (Gaz, Spax etc) is just to expensive/over engineered for what I need, but the cheap and cheerful units from R*mmer appear to be too basic. Any thoughts/experienecs please? -
I have noticed the thickness of modern 'rubber' and how hard it is on both new handbrake and clutch/brake master cylinder gaiters. Very hard to manipulate it.
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Paul - Thanks for your input, but (see earlier posts) no airline. Doesn't matter if anything has been said before, I value not onIy any repitition but the fact that several people may advise to do/not to do the same thing. That's what this forum is all about. I agree about the smaller tins, also covering the part used tin with cling film before putting on the lid to make it easier to open. The smaller tin and the cling film also reduce the chance of getting hard bits of paint coming off the rim of the can by successive opening/closing
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Clive - I thought that might be the case, this is one of the reasons why I am asking these questions before I buy any paint. If the club shop is sourcing paint from Autopaint Int and it is good, then I will either buy from them or nip down the road to the local franchise and save the carriage. Likewise, I have been recommended the paint from Brighton Autopaints by a lecturer in restoration so that should be good if a little more expensive.
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Thanks Wayne. Appreciate the help.
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Can some explain the RAL paint coding. I notice that 'Signal Red' on Amazon is shown as RAL3001. Is this some kind of industry guide for colour shades etc and would it be consistent from supplier to supplier or am I expecting to much?
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Clive Thanks, just what I need. Going back to metal and using epoxy primer, brushed not sprayed. Got a decent filler (Upol) and some acrylic stopper (thought that celly stopper would be better though due to reaction problems but will take your advice) and some aeros of Upol8. Already found out about reaction problems many years ago. Just need to decide where to get the paint (see comments about various suppliers earlier) Using an airless Apollo Spraymate with a 1.3 needle, so no provision for a water trap. It got good reviews and some members have used them to good effect. Hopefully should do what I need. Has to be better than current state of the hardtop and bonnet (see earlier photos).
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I have got a 5 litre bottle of Starchem Synstrip, which has been highly recommended. Came off fleabay (current item number 201464152727) about £26.45 inc carriage or cheaper if you wait 'til a sitewide dicoount day-I got an extra 10%off. It contains dichloromethene and phenol. Supposed to be for trade use only and carries all the usual warnings. I agree with Clive. Treat it as a dangerous substance as you would neat bleach and take all the appropriate precautions including disposing of the waste, even though it is supposed to be water soluable. Also recommended to score the old paint to allow penetration...like the tin foil idea too.
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Can anyone give me some idea about the quantity of paint (topcoat, primer, thinners etc etc) to paint a MkIV Spitfire with hard top. Someone told me 5 litres of top coat but that does appear a little excessive considering thinning (50:50 to start, going down to 25:75) and so on. I was going to order it in litre cans but 5litre cans are also available. Also I noticed on the club shop, that the paint appears to be labled 'Autopaint International'. Is that actually who supplies it or is this just a stock photo?
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Clive - Thanks for that. Yes I have been warned about the 'slump' effect. Also not to spray 2K primer but to brush it on in 2 coats. Then leave it to go rock solid as it is then waterproof and I can set to with the primer and paint at my leisure or when the weather warms up. I have also been warned that on no account should I strip back the paint and leave the metalwork in 1K primer as this absorbs and traps moisture which will cause blisters and paint lift. If you look back to the photos of my bonnet, I think that is what happened with the original paint job. This looked great for a couple of years and then blistered horrendously. I think I have the technique and theory now. I need to collect all the materials ready to start stripping and priming over the winter having warmed my nicely insulated garage. I have also been advised to read the Haynes Guide to Bodywork (and spraying) as this apparently is ideal for classic cars. Unfortunately there appears to be several print runs of this so not sure which is best of if they are all the same. May just take a punt on Amazon or Fleabay with a secondhand copy.
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Hi Paul - Using an Apollo Spraymate airless spray gun. Got good reviews years ago and several members of the forum have used them with good results (see previous postings on this thread). I'm not after a concourse finish, just an acceptable coverage that I can cut back and polish. The restorer I spoke to over the weekend confirms that I should, with patience and practice, get a reasonable standard of finish for what I need. He told me his daughter uses one.... for her spray-tan business and gets a nice even coat... but I don't want brown!!! This will now open the door for everyone who loves them or hates them to post their comments....please do, I value all comments good or bad, it all helps me, before I start. I will, in due course post my attempts in the hope it may help others.
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Yuk. Does anyone remember the bus in 'The Partridge Family' **Thread Drift Alert**... that car looks like it's chained up! Seriously, does anyone know if there is a great difference in quality in cellulose paint (1K) from different suppliers. There does appear to be quite a difference in price between (say) Autopaint franchises, the club shop and an independent like Brighton Autopaints for example.
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One thing to consider carefully is the 'drop weight' which can be considerably higher than a gentle lift. That is the difference between gentle braking in a car and an emergency stop. The g-force of an engine hoist slipping and braking is much higher than a gentle lift/lower. Don't forget the weight of the actual rsj on top of what is only aerated cement (breezeblock). When I had some rsj beams installed they were set on top of solid concrete plinths for strength and safety, a requirement by my architect.
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I once asked a structural engineer about hanging heavy things from a huge wooden joist in an old building. He told me that the joist was adequate for holding up the roof not for hanging extra stuff from. I think that you will find, as Doug says that any extra rsj will need a brick/concrete pier under each end. I think that a moveable engine/body lift might be the way to go as you appear to have a concrete floor. Not as handy but probably safer.
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Ian. Also factor in the thickness of your walls as they will have to take the weight of tbe rsj, the winch/lift and the load. It may be worth paying for a local structural engineer to check it out before you collapse your garage and house which won't endire you to your insurance company or neighbours. Sorry for the negative response but better to be sure and safe.
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I had a yellow toyota which had bodywork done due to no fault of mine accidents. It was professionally done and after 18months, every panel was different. I think that's why I want to try myself, then at least I can say I had a go and that's the best I could do. As has been said earlier in this thread, you can make an awful lot of mistakes and buy a lot of paint, other product and tools for the price of a professional job and then not worry about the odd scratch... just get on, enjoy driving the thing and, having gained some knowledge along the way, repaint as and when needed.
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Saw a car yesterday with a large area of the underside of the bonnet covered in silentcoat. The rest was match painted to the body colour. The silentcoat cut down bonnet vibration/noise etc and protected from stones, heat etc. Best of all worlds for me.
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Doug. Thanks for the warning. I currently have several shades of pimento on the car, all from the same paint can, applied over over several years. Even t-cut, brasso etc etc, won't pull them back to any sort of match. Part of it is flaking (see earlier pictures of the bonnet), some 'deadened' with a petrol spill, most of it now very poor.
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I was recommended the Haynes paint and bodywork book. Has anyone read one and have an isbn as there appear to be several versions about.
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Tony. It's not only down to the monitor but also the camera/scanner and also the colour of the light (time of day, flash etc) the photo was taken with. This is why a colour 'let in' can look great in the garage, but a total mis-match in daylight. Morning daylight is bluish, evening redish. Also the reflectance of the paint adds more variance into the mix! I think the carmine is a little too deep for what I have in mind. Thanks.
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Thanks for that, I will let you know. I did come across this site: https://triumphspitfire1500.co.uk/triumph-spitfire-colours/triumph-spitfire-colours-interactive-1/ which is interesting, but again, colour accuracy depends on the monitor.
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I am now starting work on my 'back to bare metal' respray after a long chat with a restorer. I have been advised to get my supplies from Brighton Autopaints. Does anyone know if they are part of the Autopaint franchise, as I have a local branch nearby, although BA do offer free delivery over £100. Also is there anyway of getting a colour sample of carmine and signal red, before I order. I know about the problems of viewing colours on a computer monitor, even a colour profiled one, and would like to see the colours in the flesh, so to speak. There don't appear to be any cars in the Manchester area in these shades. Do the club do a 'colour card'?
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Thanks for the warnings gents.
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Finally ordered some Classic Oil on the recent ebay 10% off day. Hoping it will arrive as the two orders that I have placed for KYB shock absorbers have been cancelled due to 'no stock'. As KYBs appear to be in short supply what is the next best, reasonably priced brand? I have read various posting here about modern Monroes not being as good as old stock, but Koni, Spax etc are both over spec and over budjet for my needs. Any thoughts folks?
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Will give a liberal dose of penetrating oil and leave for some time to soak in, then try again.
