Badwolf
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Everything posted by Badwolf
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Then my '72 spit should be ok as it doesn't smoke and I can tell the tester not to fiddle. The reason I ask is that I got a 'free mot' voucher from Halfrauds, so you see where this is going... there is nowhere for any spotty faced oick to plug in his computer... probably that is a fail in its own right!!
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Owen at Park Lane Classics does 2 types of vinyl, plus leather covers. His work is first class but poor communication. Have a look at his web site . http://www.parklaneclassics.co.uk/ . Also search on here for results from other users
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Last week I bought what turned out to be a very flimsy video camera bracket. I applied to return it and got a message from the seller to take a hammer to it to make it un-useable, send him a photo of it and he would issue a full refund. We live in very strange times.
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Can I ask if anyone has had experience of their car being mot failed due to emissions? I read that a fair few have had their carburettors reset to comply and then the car not running properly. Has anyone told a tester not to mess with the settings?
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I have a small 'gas pencil' which runs off cigarette lighter gas. It gives a very localised jet and may be useful for this. Probably find one on fleabay for a few quid. Very useful for heating up tight nuts (Don't go there Doug/Pete!!). Put to good use burning out old suspension rubbers last year.
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I know Doug brews his own so I think we can beat most members with tasty, not over fizzy beer... at about 15 pence a pint!!!
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I agree with N/M but also take care not to overheat as you don't want the heat to travel along to another joint and melt that one as has happened to me when remaking some copper pipe joints
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BF. I had a similar problem to your oil pressure light with my stop lights some time ago. No power to the switch but power all along the cable. It turned out that there was insufficient copper coming out of the wire insulation to make contact with the blade of the connector. It had worked for years, but when the foot pedal switch exploded the copper must have been pulled inside the insulation breaking the contact. Took me ages (and enquiries here) to track down as visually everything looked fine. Solution.. cut off the connector, remake, all is well. Just a few thoughts which may have no relevance but may just help.
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Re previous post. A quick call to the great Angie at club HQ sorted me out. Angie thanks for the chat and making me feel special, like I was the only member. Lovely to talk to and great service. Every phone enquiry should be like this. -
Can't make it the HQ. Shame we can't have a twiddle on the Club NEC restoration show stand.
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Just had a thought about the NEC show. Does anyone know how much notice the club shop will need to order parts and paint for collection on the Sunday. I have only just realised that there is only a couple of weeks to go!
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Has anyone read a copy of the Haynes guide to bodywork and painting? If so, is it any good or very helpful? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bodywork-Paintwork-Manual-Martynn-Randall/dp/1844251985/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549447253&sr=8-2&keywords=haynes+bodywork
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Should be ok, but I would still do a test to make sure that they are compatible if you haven't used the two products together before. It would be heartbreaking to spend all the time prepping and painting the cellulose only to have it ruined with a top coat that acted more like paint stripper. It has happened to me in the past on a small scale. When I start painting, I fully intend to brush paint the various paints etc onto a test piece before I do the first panel. Thankfully, my first panel will be the hardtop as its no so big!!
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Paul - Suggest you try a test area first. Mixing paint types, even over stuff which has 'set' for years can be fraught with problems. Better apply an 'isolating' coat to be on the safe side.
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Mike - Thanks for that. I have previously tried everything you suggest except the 'windows key' which is new to me. Not having updates may leave me open to dangerous flaws in W10 but I prefer that to it trashing my system and stopping my perfectly adequate, paid for, older programmes from working properly. In all honesty, and I know that this is impossible, but I feel that W10 should be supplied with virtual copies of all windows operating systems which can be accessed from within it, instead of all the junk that I donlt want which should be available as bolt on apps for those who do need it.
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I suddenly had a thought while I was looking for respray stuff around the web sites. I assume that if I am going to brush on 2k primer, I will also need 2k thinners to thin paint as needed and clean brushes etc. What is the difference between 2k and ordinary cellulose thinners. Also between 'gun clean', 'anti bloom' and 'high gloss' thinners?
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Thanks for the feedback. My car is very much a mongrel so in some cases I'm not sure what was original. Photographs from the original owner show paint which is like signal red but the plate shows it should be pimento. Some of the panels when stripped back for the original respray look like they had been over-sprayed but underneath there was some sort of lacquer. You will have to wait for the 'historians' of the group to put in their experience. From my view, the answer is not sure, but I have passed on what info I can. The paint supplier is interesting as they are reasonably close to me, but I may end up ordering my paint from the club shop and, if possible, collecting it and other parts from the March NEC show.
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Electrical grease in a aerosol, that then thickens
Badwolf replied to daverclasper's topic in Electrical System
John - Wonder when happened to WD1-WD39? -
Do you think that RogerH will stay with us after that little lot. By the way tried some DOT5 in my bathroom but the pipe joints still leak, the good news is that none of the paintwork has been damaged!
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I think that we would all agree to that.
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Doug - Nice idea especially if you link the switch through another isolator but that's total paranoia. You could simply put the switch in the glove box or somewhere out of sight. I might just try that when I put in the new fuse link box
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Instructions please Colin. You know where to post it
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I got my seals etc from a well known supplier but even they won't know how good they are. Most of the parts are coming from the same importers, probably being repackaged so you have no idea how good they are. The days of well known branded parts coming direct from the manufacturer I fear is long gone. Look at the posts regarding shock absorbers. I read that well known respected brand names have been sold off so you don't know who's product is in the box.
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One day I intend to fit an in line fuel line tap in the boot. Extra security, unless I forget that I turned it off, but very useful for doing work on the main pipe runs,
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GT6 Mk2 dashboard renovation / replacement
Badwolf replied to rulloyd's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
Veneering a dash isn't too difficult. I got hold of a scrap wooden dash years ago and had a contact who like A/F's Dad was a cabinate maker. He got me the veneer (mahogany I think) and gave me instructions on how to apply it. He suggested finshing it with Danish oil as it was easy to apply (rub in on soft cloth) several coats. It sets to a nice finish, but the trick is to rub it down between coats with wire wool, using finer grades as you progress. Mine still looks good after 20 odd years and the beauty of this stuff is that you can give it a wipe over with more oil at any time plus a couple of coats of wax polish and its wonderful.
