Badwolf
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Everything posted by Badwolf
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There is, of course, no guarantee that the new seals, plunger rubbers etc won't leak after 12/18 months, even after fitting new ones. This comes back to the numerous posts about the quality of spares, rubbers etc, which doesn't show up, good or bad until several years have past. Only then can you say "should have bought more of those", but then, too late. Even stuff in the same branded box cannot be trusted either due to counterfitting, different formula/manufacture or just a Friday afternoon batch!
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I think that Kevin is your man for this. He does the forum tech. You might try to 'quote' your original piece and then post it as a reply on Pete's original thread.
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Dare one say... "Here's one he prepared earlier" ...but it would be nice to try it again and correlate all these masterpieces on one thread rather than all over the forum. Ok Ian, over to you to copy your idea onto Pete's thread and off we go.
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Dick - Thanks, downloaded, but it did not immediately come up on the home page and nothing in the search routine even after logging in to tssc site. Eventually got it by googling 'tssc>agreed value insurance form'. A bit weird, I don't usually have problems like this. Thanks all. -
On my MkIV Spitfire, I made an aluminium plate, the same size as the new number plates, with two holes recessed to fit a bolt heads and bolted it onto the front brackets. Then applied my black & silver embossed plate with double sided number plate tape. Afrer 18 months all still appears to be solid.
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Pete - I appreciate that but I don't think she would make the NEC or that they would let us in. Photos and documents is a stop gap until I can get a 'look see' valuation. It will certainly be better than what I have at the moment. I think my last valuation cert expired in 1998!! What documents will I need and how many photos - all external, engine bay, interior.. anything else?
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I think we should get back to basics on this. Classic cars, classic radios. If you want the all singing/dancing/talking/phoning radio get a modern. If you want the true 'classic' experience, leave the phone in the boot (emergencies only) and tune the vintage radio, if you really can't live without the extra noise in your classic, to an oldies station, and drive. With (in my case) the top down, why would I want to inflict my choice of music on everyone else? The car makes enough noise on it's own.
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Do we have a thread heading to cover useful diy/Blue Peter tool fabrication instructions? I would be really useful to keep all our diy stuff listed under one heading
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... also can anyone tell me if it will be possible to get a valuation from anyone on the club stand and if so, exactly what I need to take with me. Obviously I don't want to take unnessess.ary stuff, but can take hi-res photos on my tablet and whatever documents are needed along with the fee in cash/card.
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I am planning on going to the NEC restoration show in March and am wondering if anyone can give me a heads up on the best stands to visit with regards to bodywork refinishing, so that I don't waste too much time when I first arrive. The idea is to plan what I really need to see right at the start and then meander around later. I am also hoping to order stuff from the club shop to collect there if possible.
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Usually at the end of a production run all the left overs are used and the model badged 'special edition' as a warning that nothing in the parts catalogue for your SE model will fit. Had several of those over the years. Now my Spitfire is the same, a sort of mongrel.
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Hello from a new younger member
Badwolf replied to nathanh's topic in I thought I'd introduce myself
When I had my old engine replaced, the replacement was stripped and balanced, bits reground etc. That was in 1986. It was run on leaded (about 1,500 miles/year) 'til 1996 when the car went into storage. I assume that on the rebuild, grinding in the valves (don't remember if new ones were fitted) would destroy the lead memory, but would it have been run for long enough on leaded for the memory effect to build up? -
Colin - Sorry about that. I do what I can. You may be exotic but strange... never!!!
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Annoyingly, the first one I did went together easily. So, the second, dead easy, no sweat....no......, probably I didn't take as much care so had problems. I think the worst thing, when you are not doing this sort of thing on a regular basis is to do the first one easily then, a certain 'contempt' for the job happens. Then it goes wrong. In this case treat each cup and bearing as if it is the first one you have ever done. Slow and easy and it should all go together smoothly. As NonMember says, slow and square and if the circlips fit into the grooves easily then its ok. My first was too easy, that was my downfall!!
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I got 4 cans of the Classic oil via fleabay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuzz-Townshends-Classic-Oils-Heritage-20W50-Engine-Oil-4-x-5-litres-Not-VR-1/153335661299?epid=5023994464&hash=item23b38482f3:g:f8cAAOSwa5lbo7E~ Had to wait a little while but finally bought them carriage free on a 10% off sitewide discount day, so a real saving. These site wide discount days appear to be coming round more and more. They are either 10% or 15% off, depending on your luck. Worthwhile collecting stuff you want but are not desparate for in your fleabay basket. Check every day at about 5pm as they sometimes run from 12noon (ish) to 8:00pm. Huge savings can be made on everything this way. I have also collected loads of stuff, parts, thinners, fillers etc this way, ready for my respray in the spring.
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Keep us posted. That company could be very useful
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I went on to silicone when I recomissioned the car 18 months ago. Following the dire warnings around the news groups I replaced all the rubbers blew through the pipework with a modified foot pump and filled with dot5. In this case the car had been standing for 20ish years so the major overhaul was neccessary. No problems to date.
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Clive - Sorry, on the 2019 list for the NEC Restoration Show it lists as 'Autopaints Brighton' not 'Brighton Autopaints', sorry for the error. http://www.necrestorationshow.com/exhibitor-list-0
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I posed the question last year about the relative qualities of various brands/suppliers of paint. The club paint shown on the photo has an 'Autopaints International' label, which, if I remember correctly, is a franchise. Autopaints top coat was used on my car and it went very brittle and flaked, but that was over 30 years ago and may have been due to poor application. Getting to the bottom of who sells what, and what quality is always difficult. I am still open to advice
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Thanks for the warning. Just painting 3 interior room doors. No fingerprints yet, but working on it.
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For mail order I was recommended Brighton Autopaints, by a restorer. They do the whole range. They are showing at the Restoration show in March at the NEC. If you are going, may be worth contacting them. I will probably order my paint from them along with 2k primer (to brush on) and other bits and pieces. Free carriage over (I think) £100.
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Spitfire 1500 - Christmas Plans
Badwolf replied to Anglefire's topic in My Triumph Restoration Project
A/F. Thanks for the kind offer, but I'll hang on for the KYBs for a little longer. Failing that might go for something more expensive. However as Doug (sage that he is and appears to know his onions!!!) says, you spend alot of time fidling with adjustables to get them nearly but not quite right. I just want to fit a decent set and leave them. No track stuff, just the country lanes, sun out, birds singing.... a long way from this miserable weather. -
Unusual for a thread drift to actually develop in a different, but accurate direction to the actual question asked!! Very grateful for the heater advice but now does anyone have any thoughts about the salt on the roads please.
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Forgot to mention, it may too cold to crawl around under the car but the garage is currently filled with the doors from the house which have just been painted. Small butane heater keeping the chill off so the paint has a better chance of drying.
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Spitfire 1500 - Christmas Plans
Badwolf replied to Anglefire's topic in My Triumph Restoration Project
A/F. What brand of shocks are you putting on the rear? Still not been able to source any KYBs anywhere, so may have to get something else. Spax, Gaz etc are to flash for what I need, but want something a little better than the 20 quid black unbranded types. Monroe have had very mixed comments on the forum, so not sure what to get.
