Paulfc

Drive naked?

Thanks Kevin.

Hi, which vehicle/model have you got?

Thank you!

Hi, Thanks for the speedy response and words of wisdom. Certainly not intending to cause an explosion or create alarm! My intended use of the heat source will be judicious and very measured. I’ll drain and then vent for a couple of days then remove any residual fuel by swabbing the tank internally via the sender hole using rags attached to a flexible claw. Then, in the open air, I’ll WARM the tank externally. My visual inspection shows it’s clearly never been anything near full in years so there’s evidence of debris internally on the roof of the tank and the upper parts of the baffles. I’m going to gently tap the tank to try a dislodge anything that’s lose and use the aforementioned claw to swab as much of the internal area as I can. I intend then to put a small amount of fuel in the tank, seal the sender orifice and other outlets ( it’s a TR6 so there are two) invert the tank and give it another good swill around and then drain and swab again. By slightly inclining the tank the fuel will drop to the lowest point, around the drain plug which I can easily access, together with any debris dislodged. I’ll siphon and swab again to get rid of what remains. I may repeat the process depending on what I find. Finally I’m intending swill and flush with clean fuel a couple of times before reassembling. Again, thanks for your response.

Thanks all. I’ve drained it this afternoon by simply siphoning the residual fuel, nice and straight forward and avoiding the nerve racking removal of the plug. Wagger, that’s an interesting approach, I may try it but minus the soapy water! What was the rational of using it? Alternatively, I may swill it with a little petrol then siphon again, vent, then use a hot air gun and vacuum out before flushing with petrol. The last step will also allow me to test a tank to filter link arrangement utilising two lengths of hose joined by a Warrior Quick Release Fuel Line Coupler as part of my plan to make future servicing and maintenance easier.

I’m dithering as to whether or not to remove the drain plug on the fuel tank. I’m painting the tank and renewing the sender gasket. My dilemma is, will I find, having removed the plug which I’m sure hasn’t budged in 50 years in order to get the last dregs of fuel out and more easily swill the tank, that I can’t get a fuel tight seal again? Any advice and guidance from those knowledgeable of this procedure will be appreciated. Thanks

Hi, Costco have some excellent battery (AA and AAA) work light and head light sets sold as set of three (head) and two (work) so you can always have one in reserve if there’s no power in your garage.

Colin, +1 for the above but also try putting the mixture into a sprayer of some kind. I use empty domestic cleaning product spray bottles after thoroughly washing them out.

Hi Richard, I’ve recently changed the distributor cap, rotor arm and points and bought them from James Paddock. Quality was absolutely fine and I’ve had no issues since installing them 5 months ago. I have to say I buy all my general servicing parts from JP and have done for a very long time and can’t remember ever having had an issue. If it was a refurbed distributor I was after then, yes, the Distributor Dr. would be were I would head. Paul

Chris, I’m still at the design/planning stage but at the moment I’m thinking I’ll take it from the alternator. It’ll shorten the cable runs and I can make a much tidier arrangement. Paul

Chris, NM and all, Thanks for that, again great advice for which I’m really grateful. Didn't expect this topic to be so wide ranging and informative. Never a dull moment with a Triumph!

Fascinating stuff this physics! Thanks to all. Genuinely, I now have several evening’s research and study to digest and properly understand those latest posts. Unrelated I know, but am I better off, should I opt to, installing modern sealed beam units or replaceable lamp type lights? Thanks.

Thanks Ian.

Hi All, Many thanks for your advice and guidance, I’m much clearer now on what and how to tackle things. Paul

Hi, Some guidance please. I’m thinking of installing relays to ease the load on the headlamp circuit/switch with, hopefully, an improvement in brightness. Never used relays before and would appreciate any advice as the where best to locate them, where to take the switched current from etc. I’ve seen the battery positive terminal and the alternator mentioned as suitable source points. Also, what cable rating should I use? Plus, of course, any associated do’s/don’ts, product recommendations, advice on fusing and so on. Many thanks.

At, of course, a small additional charge to Council Tax.

I’m sure the spammers would consider getting into our site as a Triumph and want to Herald it as a success! Thanks Admin/IT Support Team.

That’s ingenious! Good luck with the rest of the restoration.

John, thanks. You’ve pointed me towards products (dry-break) I know nothing about so I’ll start learning and see where I end up.

Bfg, Thanks, yep that’s a consideration too.

Thanks for suggestions. More food for thought so I’ll sort something appropriate before too long.

Thanks Pete, I get the drift of what you are suggesting and will explore options further. I hadn’t considered using standard plumbing components to do it but will explore what’s available.

As part of my plans to upgrade my fuel hoses I’d like to incorporate a drain tap on the outlet from the tank of my TR6. My current process for draining is to simply remove the hose from the outlet and quickly replace it with a divert hose - but never quickly enough! I’d appreciate any ideas folk have on how best to easily achieve this in a controlled way and advice on suitable components. As ever, thanks in advance.

Paul, You’re a long way from home! I live close to Bromborough and haven’t seen a Mayflower around here in many a year.