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68vitesse

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Everything posted by 68vitesse

  1. The only way to fit as you suggest would be to use hook type spring compressors, I do not have any as have never trusted them. Refitting the shock absorber then jacking up under the bottom wishbone might push the top bush through the turret hole as it is above the spring top plate. Regards Paul
  2. I have been changing the suspension bushes on my Vitesse to polyurethane, a well known make, all have fitted ok up to now. The front upper shock absorber bush as fitted is to big to go through the hole in the front turret. My option seem to be as follows. Fit it back and see if the weight of the car pushes it through, I do not feel it would be a good idea to try and pull it through with the three top plate studs as they are quite small. Remove the turret and enlarge the hole, there would be plenty of metal left to support the top plate. The number cast onto the bush shows it has been correctly supplied. As this is a common upgrade I do not feel I am the only one to have this problem, or is it a challenge these days?. Regards Paul
  3. While out walking this morning saw a Vitesse saloon waiting at traffic lights then a few minutes later a Toledo went past. Most triumphs I have seen on the road in a month. Regards Paul
  4. Again from distant memory on my first car, a Herald 12/50, could not get it to idle well as the tapered screw was worn, the tapered part was waisted, not a straight taper. Why can I remember forty years ago but not last week?. Regards Paul
  5. At Stoneleigh on one of my visits to the Triumph show I bought a pair of expensive wiper blades for my Vitesse, they where useless the edge of the rubber blade was not finished still had moulding flash. I found that with a little modification the stainless steel part would accept Halfords refills which resulted in blades which give an excellent wipe. Regards Paul
  6. Seem to remember my Herald 1250, first car, had an accelorater pump jet and you had to be carefull not to lose the ball bearing that acted as a nonreturn valve. This was over fourty years ago so could be wrong. Regards Paul
  7. Bought some freelander studs for my Vitesse but the threaded length was to short, or the unthreaded part was to long depending on your point of view. So another part I can not use but can not throw away. Regards Paul
  8. Thankyou all, seems I would be better of using the old ones I have rather than the current crop of Monroe or generic black ones, unless I want to go to Koni, Gaz etc. Regards Paul
  9. Thanks for that very informative, any idea of where the currant ones are made and their quality?. Regards Paul
  10. Found a pair of shock absorbers I forgot I had, bought many years ago at a show. Hand written Vitesse, Herald, GT6 spitfire front, I now check the contents of boxes when at shows. Box Monroe Safe-Master with made in Belgium on it. Shock absorbers have paper label Motocraft Auto-Flex and are stamped made in England. Aluminium locking rings for bottom spring mount have Woodhead Mfg. Co. cast on them. Both shock absorbers are stamped 206262 F06310X 1D28 and seem to be the right size for above stated use. Does any one have old reference books to tell me if they are correct. Many thanks Regards Paul
  11. 68vitesse

    Torque wrench

    Thinking of buying a new torque wrench and was wondering about the digital ones, any body any thoughts?. Regards Paul
  12. Just been sorting my rear axle with a new UJ, owe my car an apology it was the flange not the half shaft which was worn. As to Freelander type being fatter I put a micrometer on the cups I removed and checked it against the new UJ's. Two Freelander type, larger rollers metal protection for the seal and spider marked GKN 5J, from different source's and a third UJ marked GKN 6E, smaller rollers no protection for the seal, all the same size. The old spider was not marked so make unknown, tried a cup from each of the three new UJ's in the worn flange, just as loose as the one I removed so it is scrap. Regards Paul
  13. Might need the Freelander uj then as I started one job on my Vitesse which needed the removal of the diff then noticed that the nearside uj had a rotating cup. Had to be in the half shaft not the flange so the more difficult to replace and more expensive part. Is my Vitesse being awkward or just the normal classic car, start one job and find others?. At least it keeps me busy in retirement and weather a balmy ten degrees so not to cold in the garage. Regards Paul
  14. As mentioned in a previous post I have a pit in my garage it is as dry as a bone, and takes up no room when not being used. I am currently refitting the rear suspension on my MK1 Vitesse, started with a need to replace diff. half shaft seals. Very useful to be able to stand under the car to refit diff etc. Regards Paul
  15. Currently have the rear suspension stripped down on my MK1 Vitesse 2L CV to replace the oil seals on the diff half shafts, job now done. Have bought a set of polyurethane bushes for the rebuild and just have the cheap black shock absorbers and was wondering if Koni, Spax etc. are worthwhile for a car which has normal use. Regards Paul
  16. Exhaust manifold is the same on a MK1 Triumph 2000, inlet is different. Regards Paul
  17. Have a pit in my garage, and you need to think is the roof high enough to open the bonnet if you raise the car on a lift. Regards Paul
  18. 68vitesse

    core plugs

    I have a MK1 2L Vitesse and thought the dished and bucket core plugs where not interchangable. The dished ones needing a ledge to butt up to the bucket ones just knocked in, although if the diameters are the same the bucket ones would only go in so far as the ledge. Have fitted both types, never sure how hard to hit the dished ones, have seen 2L engines with buckets on one side and dished on the other. Regards Paul
  19. Looking at a picture in an old Triumph Wsm, black cover loose leaf Vitesse 1600 Herald etc., page 3.110 Fig.21 appears to show the split cups behind the seal housing to remove the bearing. Now have all the bits, bearings SKF but marked made in Bulgaria, seals and bearings sourced locally from specialist seal and bearing suppliers. Regards Paul
  20. Brake fluid is made to a standard by well known manufacturers, the seals are made from god knows what by god knows whom. Even buying nos in original packaging is not safe as only the box might be original and if the seals are they will be old. Still sticking with DOT5 and am sure there will be more posts on the relative merits. Regards Paul
  21. Just need a live from the overdrive solenoid feed then an earth from the other side of the bulb. I sometimes forget to flick the switch when coming to a roundabout so go from second to third ovderdrive. There was a diagram published which used two relays to prevent this. Regards Paul
  22. I have a MK1 2L Vitesse and have removed the hub with the axle still on the car, just using non powered tools. Do the bolt in the hub puller as tight as you can, if the hub will not come off, then hit the hub puller on each side at the same time with two hammers should shock it free. VERY IMPORTANT. Leave the nut on the axle,but loose, or the hub can fly off as it comes free. Regards Paul
  23. Never understand why supplier go to all the trouble of remaking parts but do not get them right. Welcome to the world of inferior parts best of luck in your search. Regards Paul
  24. Rimmers list an alternator bracket for a Spitfire, as far as I,m aware any from a four cylinder engine, not 1850 etc. should fit. Used one on my Vitesse when I converted it to alternator. Regards Paul
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