rlubikey

Just to add to NM & Clive's comments, I would say your choice of 2000 or 2500 partly depends on your driving style. The 2-litre engine rewards enthusiastic use of the gearbox, but the torquey 2500 suits a more ... ummm? ... lazy driving style - like mine in fact! Well, that's my view. If it has the saloon gearbox with its wide ratios then that's a good combination. Triumph did the same trick on the 1500 Spit. You'll have to declare any modifications to the insurer, but I would think the club's panel are all used to these sort of engine swaps and it won't make too much difference. Cheers, Richard

I had to do a double-take, but I think that's a Mk4 (Oy-Vay) fitting a 1500. Agree, same body tub, hood frame, so yes. Cheers, Richard

NonMember, I click on the dot to the left of the thread title to take me to the first unread post. I don't know how to go to the most recent though. Cheers, Richard

Check the oil level. Mine was low due to an undiscovered leak and the OD stuck on on an M'way journey. Reversed in the services and it popped out. Filling G'box to correct level cured the problem. This was a J-type OD. Cheers, Richard

Nick, I know someone does a clamp for the ARB, but can't remember where I've seen it ... was it in the club shop for the TRs? I always thought that the type of exhaust clamp shown in our cars parts catalogues - if it was also available in the right diameter - would be ideal for clamping ARBs to stop the side to side movement. Anyone know what this style of clamp is called? Cheers, Richard

That's a late ('79 on) body with the "bowl" behind the brake M/C to accept tandem braking. The TR Register have been talking about fake 99p TR6's, but I don't know how you spot these scams. Go and see it first!!! Cheers, Richard

Are you sure the ARB doesn't simply need centring? I don't think there's anything to stop it moving side to side a little bit other than the U bolt clamping force through the bushes. Cheers, Richard

I left the old fusebox in place (for show) and moved all the cables over to my new fusebox in the passenger glovebox. Cheers, Richard

I think you may have it! If it was fairly easy to remove the question is, will it go back tight and stay in place? If not, some clever Heath Robinson may be required, or failing that a new gearbox extension. Cheers, Richard

Colin, please - I think you're referring to liquid art. Liquid engineering is keg stuff, surely? Which, as (I hope) we all know, is monotonously mediocre and definitely isn't real beer! Cheers, Richard PS: Oh, and would you kindly stop using the "B" word. "Brands" are created by marketing people with their focus groups and budgets. Great beer is created by skilled artisans, and delivered to your glass by gifted publicans.

Agree with Clive, Colin, Doug and the others. Sports (pronounced "Loud") exhaust systems are a decision you may soon regret. Usually, the first time you make a long journey - I took to wearing ear plugs! The stainless "standard" systems are often considered louder than the now rare mild steel because the metal is thinner. I was really glad when I eventually swapped my Triumph Tune (Moss) Falcon wheelbarrow system for a standard GT6 including centre box. Less "Punk Rock", more "Operatic Tenor". Much more pleasant and still makes the right noise when I use the "loud pedal". Cheers, Richard

Yes, GL4 spec, unless the manufacturer specifically states in writing his GL5 is compatible with yellow metals. A few do. This one says "Yellow Material" in the data sheet. Cheers, Richard

Blitz, the 50A fuse was just the first good image I found - there's no significance to that current (though I think that's the minimum available). The purpose of fuses is to protect the wiring. So as Angelfire says, you size to a bit below the cable capacity, although if you know the maximum current of the ancillary(s), you size a little above that. I used 200A for the starter and I think 75A for the rest, but that includes power steering (50A). Downstream of these I have a proper fusebox with modern blade fuses for each circuit. CF8 fuses are made by Litelfuse, Pudenz and Wickmann, though I think there's been some buying of companies since then. I got mine through either RS, Farnell or CPC, but I'm sure you would find them on Fleabay & elsewhere. Cheers, Richard

For ultimate cable protection, I have a CF8 fuse on a special battery terminal - you can't get much closer to the battery than that! You can even get a double post terminal - one for the starter and one for the rest of the car. Cheers, Richard

... or even swap alternate leaves to try and even out any bias! Cheers, Richard

Yes, I have always thought they attached to the door, not the card. Cheers, Richard

Don't rush into having a new gearbox. Unless you go to the top people (Mike Papworth, etc.) then you may end up with something worse! Sticking in those gears - in addition to Pete's advice, does it do this all the time or only when hot? I'm guessing your engine is a bit rattly, right, and you're thinking new bearings? This can be done in situ if the gearbox doesn't need to come out. What I'm saying is, diagnose the problems rather than assuming a new gearbox/engine will solve things - they may bring a raft of new problems instead! Been there - got the T-shirt. Cheers, Richard

The penny's just dropped - this is a Single rail gearbox. Cheers, Richard

Terrific pictures and description Graham, thank you. Why is it that the selector shaft needs casing/boxing in like that? There's an O-ring seal both ends on the selector cover, right? Cheers, Richard

Except that you are doing your due diligence to show, on that one day each year, that your car was roadworthy, same as any other car owner. I agree with the others. An MOT is for me is a "no brainer". If anything bad happens, I can wave it under the nose of the judge and say in terms of road worthyness I've been doing the same as you M'Lud. You are of course quite right Anglefire, regular maintenance is also vital, but I don't think it is a substitute for getting an MOT. Perhaps you weren't suggesting that? Cheers, Richard

First I would check you haven't got a low battery voltage which causes the flash rate to slow. It might be caused by a heat induced or similar fault in the alternator or battery - more likely the former. (Low voltage lowers the current through the indicator lamps. Low current also happens if one or more lamps fail. The slow/no flash is a design feature to warn you of bulb failure. Coincidentally, it also warns you of alternator failure!) Cheers, Richard

Just too late for you, RayHutch. But anyone considering antifreeze for our cars might note the MG document mentions Propylene Glycol and that it is less toxic. Ethylene Glycol is highly toxic and needs to be disposed of carefully, not just thrown down the drain. It was infamously added to a batch of Austrian wine many years ago. Although the PDF says that Comma have stopped making Propylene Glycol antifreeze, I believe it is a legal requirement that central heating antifreeze uses Propylene Glycol so that children and pets aren't poisoned by leaky radiators! I use Fernox Alphi 11 in the Spit, and there is anecdotal evidence on the web that Rolls Royce used to specify this product in their cars. Another advantage is that the anti-corrosion agents in central heating antifreeze such as this last for 20 years or so, not the 2- or 3 years which is normal for blue antifreeze. So taking this into account, the more expensive central heating product works out cheaper in the long run. Cheers, Richard

When I re-wired and fused mine, I ran separate cables to each headlamp, through separate relays, and each lamp individually fused both switch-side and lamp-side circuits. This way a single failure results in loosing only one headlamp. Cheers, Richard

Chris, well done you for buying your Spit for the second time! I don't know about Russet cars, but my old Pageant blue 1981 Spit (built in '79) had biscuit (do you mean tan?) seats and panels, and black carpets. Does that help? Cheers, Richard

Adrian, that looks like the same motor as a 1500 Spit - it's 2 speed, right? My wiper park became intermittent on my old blue Spit back in 1989 - the Spit was only 8 years old! I had just had a so-called Triumph expert put an overdrive gearbox in. Instead of using the correct gear lever, he had welded 2 together and I would touch the wiper stalk when shifting into 3rd. The following week the wiper park problem hit - most annoying! Stripping the motor I found there was a lot of axial movement on the gear shaft. The park switch is under the big gear wheel and any wear in the circlip, body, or weakness in the switch will lead to the switch not being activated in the park position. I got a suitable thickness washer, took the hole out to the required diameter (of the shaft) and fitted it under the circlip. And now, 30 years later, the same wiper motor is in my red Spit and still giving good service. You can test the theory by switching the wipers on and then off. They keep wiping because of the park fault. Now get a flat blade screwdriver - probably quite a small one - and offer it up under the circlip so you can wedge it between the circlip and body. Now twist the screwdriver to lift the shaft. If it's the same problem/solution as mine, the wipers will park next time round. Look at how much you have to lift the shaft and this will lead you to the thickness of washer you require. Voilà! Cheers, Richard