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I have one of Paddock's ones in my Spitfire. Very nicely made but the tint is a little dark so you can't see it flashing in daylight. Probably OK on a Herald saloon.

This may be too long ago to be relevant but I replaced my GT6's calipers with new after its rebuild, back in 2002, and they've been absolutely fine.

I didn't have any problem with the one I bought for the Spitfire.

I strongly suspect they missed off an 'm'. 15mA would be bang on typical for a fairly bright green LED.

How about this LED indicator (not sold for cars but it's a 12V part) or this one which may even work on a late Spitfire if the description means what it appears to, but without a datasheet it's hard to say. Whole page of possible options for the inquisitive

You don't want a "plate". You need to retain the bottom (hidden) part of the pedestal because it holds the drive gear in mesh and that's also where the oil pump is driven from.

Agree with Mjit on the first and third points. On point 3 (the second one) I've never found a problem with the repeater in my Vitesse. I can't see the one in the Spitfire at all, despite it being actually brighter, because it's a Mk3 and the repeater is positioned where the sun shines straight on it most of the time. On point 2, the repeater is wired as Mjit says on square-tail Spitfires and GT6s. Vitesses use a 3-pin flasher unit and the repeater is fed from the third pin. LED should be OK.

It really does depend on when that photo was taken. As Colin says, some of them do drain back but they shouldn't really. On the other hand, my first Vitesse had a strong tendency to generate a substantial vapour bubble - looking very much like that - over twenty minutes of heat soak from stopping the engine. By the morning the bowl would be completely full again as the vapour condensed.

Not necessarily. My Spitfire does that, with brand new springs, and no change when swapped. Also, it has a swing spring at the rear. I think it's the ARB that's twisted and I understand that's quite common.

I think it's only the Dolomite range and TR7 (i.e. the cars with live axles) that cross-feed like that.

I'm not at work tomorrow (and it's a special day) so if the weather's nice we'll head off for a walk and picnic. I'll use the GT6 for that. Might need to find somewhere pretty to go. It's a shame any beautiful cliff tops are well beyond sensible range.

I agree with Nick and Sam - brake parts left standing for fifteen years should be refurb'd or replaced, the oddball screw head isn't right, standard brakes work fine if properly maintained and decent pads fitted.

In fairness, Triumph did change to a top-entry design on MkIV, which also solves the problem as well as making the pipe less vulnerable to bashing with the spare wheel...

The gauze filter in the pump is actually quite good at blocking up catching anything large enough to cause valve damage. I'm a little surprised you can't blow through the "new" pipe. Which end were you blowing from? I take it this was with both ends disconnected? Are there any bits of rubber hose in the length you were trying to blow through? The original Mk3 fuel pipe is all steel from the tank to the bit that sticks into the engine bay - the first bit of rubber is the one to the pump - but if yours has been replaced it may have lost the threaded coupling and gained some cheap rubber, which may not be ethanol resistant and may have swelled to the point where it closes off. Or it may be full of rust despite being new...

OK, must be the 23D that doesn't have vacuum. It was fitted to some versions of the PI engine. Pop and bang is suggestive of more than weak spark or bad plugs - those give definite stuttering but no pops or bangs, usually. If you're getting lurch-pop-bang then I wonder whether there's a loose or broken wire somewhere. That would, of course, be one benefit of an electronic tacho, that it will show when the LT side signal disappears. But a 123 won't fix a broken wire unless it's somewhere inside the 22D that you're removing.

(a) The 22D is the one with no vacuum advance, yes? You probably want a 25D. It shouldn't cause major issues but the vac advance gives better economy and probably better heat control (b) If you're on points, even a tiny bit of play in the shaft can cause problems. (c) Are you using a mechanical tacho? I don't think the 123 is available with the drive

I used it in 2018, bought new from Frost for that use, and it was the whole kit, so it's not an "old version" problem.

I'm glad it worked for you, but it was POR15 sealant that forced me to buy a new tank, because it peels off in sheets that block the outlet completely. I know I probably did something wrong but I've since heard a LOT of similar stories, including from a professional outfit who I trust.

Agree with scrapman - clean it up but don't use the paint - it was the cause of my Mk3 developing the same problem.

This is where the "half oval" bit fits. The sill is fitted behind the skirt of the A-post with self-tappers.

I didn't think there was any spot welding to the chassis. It's all self-tappers, I thought. Two or three on the chassis, lots to the body (bottom of rear wing, vertical flange of door tread plate, bottom of A-post). If the "half oval plate" is what I think it is, then it fits under the A-post at the point where the front corner of the door skin swings in when opened. I don't have any photos but my driver's door is off the car at the moment so I could possibly get some.

The weird thing is that I find the NGKs always give trouble on the GT6 but the very same plugs from the same batch are absolutely fine on the Vitesse and the Spitfire.

Pete, See my comment earlier in the thread and look at the photo. The rubber bit of the mount can clearly be seen NOT to be in the right place in the bottom steel part. The only way that can happen is if the rubber has come detached and the mount is completely shot.

If the holes are small, I'd agree with Clive. I don't like using just filler on a hole, though, even if it's fibreglass filler. I don't think the access is too bad underneath on a Mk3 - you should at least be able to tape a bit of mesh or fibreglass mat under the hole to give you a surface to apply the GRP filler onto.

I wondered that but it doesn't look like a poorly stamped G, it really does look like a properly stamped C.