johny

I think that refers to rocking of the trunnion on the VL indicating play in the thread.... These will be pattern part trunnions and like many of the bits supplied now I do wonder how similar they are to original specification. Brass for example wouldnt be as good OR as expensive as phosphor bronze🤔

Yes of course in performance engines youre not worried about wasting a bit of fuel. My motorbike was brand new (2007) when I changed the standard exhaust to a more free flowing one and straight away it was popping and banging - cant see its misfiring....

Of course the other possibility is that one silencer gets better cooled than the other? The only thing with the unburnt fuel is that it hurts its not doing some useful work like making the car accelerate quicker😁

I thought brake pad squeal was characteristic on braking not on driving but I suppose the shims could help with both?

I thought the manufacturers set up (cam, carb etc) is done based on a certain back pressure and if the exhaust gases escape too rapidly then at the end of the exhaust stroke when the inlet valve opens fuel/air mix can be pulled through past the closing exhaust valve. This unburnt fuel then burns in the hot exhaust and produces the pop....

I think maybe one silencer is more restrictive than the other so the majority of the exhaust gases take the easiest route. Two silencers on a 1500 is a bit of overkill really and especially with a free flow manifold the back pressure will be lower hence the popping. This can make the mixture weak and push up full consumption...

Are these the correct bolts because I thought they would be the same diameter all the way along with no shoulder? The location of the flywheel is done by its fit on the crank boss and the dowl although the manual does specify the bolts are 1.06" long....

My manual says 3/8 for all 2L sixes except the MK3 GT6 which used 7/16. The clutch should be the same 8.5" size for for all 2L and 2.5 engines...

Heres the one from the free to download workshop manual and not very clear but I think you can make out the front mounting with the twisted metal strap (part 5). Either attaching to the bell housing or gearbox extension will have to be done from underneath the car...

Yes that clamp looks to be in a very similar position on the pipe to whats shown in my manual....

Ive just noticed that the same manual says the GT6 front mounting bracket is fitted to the 'gearbox extension bolt' and its located on the exhaust just AFTER the curve section that goes round the gearbox drain plug and not, as in the diagram above, before so Im convinced at least some Vitesse also used the same fixing point. To me it makes sense as that means the exhaust has the best possible support with fixings as far apart as possible (manifold and gearbox) to minimise the joint stress while the engine/gearbox moves around....

In my free to download Triumph workshop manual theres drawings of both Mk1 and 2 systems (neither is the diagram above) and the Mk2 does use a twisted metal strip for the first fixing. Unfortunately the manual doesnt say where this attaches for the Mk2 but the Mk1, which uses a different arrangement, bolts to the corner of the block sump. However by looking at the relative positions of the two systems fixings I would guess the twisted metal bracket of the Mk2 bolts at the gearbox iron case to rear housing joint....

Even so I do love em as theyre proper engineering and you can whack in new bearings/bushes/brushes and they just keep going after 60+ years. Pity they didnt make the casing out of aluminium though instead of using left over WW2 howitzer barrel😞

Ha, I did exact same thing but by bashing it - cant believe how soft it is! I was going to file it down and redo in metric but in the end managed to restore the existing thread as its not got to be done up very tight...

Yes should say on the tyre the number of ply. Ive just bought some 13" and admittedly theres not so much choice nowadays but they say single ply on the walls and 3 for tread...

Yes Im finding my Vitesse with Mk2 SS standard system (backbox only) a bit too noisy these days so wondering if an additional resonator would do much....

Yes however with a modern car manufacturers still produce OEM components so you dont have to rely on non specialist companies making small batches of reverse engineered stuff😒

Yes if that exhaust valve is deposit free Id say replacement is a good idea. Lapping is difficult to say as you might be there for ever trying to attain a pit free surface so machining could be a better option? Also how do the valve guides feels, any wobble from the valves?

Obviously when you stop the engine there can still be pressure in the line from the pump to the carb. I think a float valve must be leaking a little and it allows this pressure to discharge more fuel in to the chamber which as the engine has stopped running theres no demand so it causes an overflow. The fuel pump non return valves must be very good so you could test the float valve sealing and at the same time check if the float levels correct....

Do you have a mechanical fuel pump or electric?

Looking good! How effective do you find those cherry bombs?

That should do the job. I wonder if its the other front wheel bearing as both sides have rollers that are loaded when turning either way....

Yes its what most modern cars use to seal their coolant pumps although some are electric now and I dont know what they use. As you say it needs the coolant to be kept very clean so have to check with EP services what they install and the limits of their guarantee....

I thought EP machine the pump to replace the seal with a modern mechanical seal and also use ceramic bearings so that as long as you own the car they will repair the pump. Obviously something hasnt been done correctly in this case so could be argued all the costs are down to them....

Doesnt the EP services one have a lifetime guarantee? Suppose you have to pay postage though🙁