johny

yes they get a shot of grease in each cup during manufacture and once installed the only way to put more in is take the u/j back out😵 I must say though that whenever Ive removed worn out ones I havent found them to be completely dry but that maybe cos they never seem to last very long....

I used to think the cylinder head joint was pretty bomb proof but now with Iana's failure Im getting worried - think I'll keep the revs under 10k from now on😨

Ive had repeated failures of my Mk1 manifold gasket but seem to have sussed it now by regularly checking the clamp bolts are tight! In my experience many bolts that are continually heated and cooled seem to slacken off - I just wish I could check the head bolts as easily.....

This is also the only thing to come up if you search for TVF100000 on the GKN site.....

To make things worse the only item GKN list for a Freelander is this U 050 which it says is premium quality and theres no heavy duty option. I think maybe this is all thats available now and what the club sells (although this greaseable) as opposed to what might have been available in the past. Or maybe now GKN only do the heavy duty one directly for Land Rover and it comes in LR packaging?

Ha look whats on good old ebay. Not the item for our cars but a good explanation of the different types of u/js.....

hmmm cant remember what I put in but I know they havent lasted long!

Those Pegasus u/js are even more expensive but I suppose are regreaseable! However, yes the seals and box seem to be the things to look out for so need to check what the club actually supply.....

Clive they look identical are you sure the ebay ones are worth the extra over the club ones? Wonder what the difference is...... Deffo going to check my prop angle👍

is that the GKN18050 item Pete? It says standard universal joint but is that the heavy duty one thats often talked about?

Did you take an oil pressure reading?

how many miles do you think the old u/j did Clive? The subject of u/js seems to be a minefield because as I understand it all that fit our cars also fit the Freelander so how do you tell heavy duty ones? If it just says it on the box I wouldnt want to risk spending 85 or even 35 quid on it!

Think we'll have to have what ever the Americans send us😵

And yes Mark it can be driven like that for many miles but it wears the u/j yokes which will mean they need replacing possibly with the complete halfshaft which is quite a big job.....

Looks good. Which cut off switch did use and where is it located?

That'll do the job nicely. I use one of these and its quite successful but dont need it very often...

Think Doug is talking about carb mixture adjustment rather than balance.....

you have to undo the clamp that connects the two carbs throttle butterflies (the rear hex bolt you can see in your photo) then measure the air flow through each carb mouth with a flow meter (some people listen to the airflow with a tube to judge it). Adjust the airflow using each carbs throttle stop screws while keeping the tickover speed correct then when you have the same airflow through each carb you do up the clamp and rev it a few times to see that the balance remains true. Dont forget that everything else on the engine should be set correctly (tappets, mixture etc) before setting the carb balance....

sounds very much like the car chassis is flexing which causes the door gap to open up effectively pulling apart the door catch and latch plate. Its most common on convertibles which is why they came with additional 'anti-burst' catches but can happen on saloons if rust has weakened the structure. Obviously the smaller the door gap is adjusted the less likely it is to happen....

Come on guys you'll be frightening Charlie!

If its wheel bearing, which MUST have some play, it should be detectable in all directions although its more difficult to feel side to side as the steering allows movement. If its only top and bottom then its likely to be the bottom trunnion and/or top balljoint which can be identified by close inspection or feel when wobbling the wheel..... Im talking about small chassis Triumphs

ahhh realise Ive had a senior moment in thinking the cylinder being comp tested could drawn air in through the spark plug hole but of course thats where the tester is installed! doh🙄 No idea what could give a high reading like that: wrong piston, huge build up of carbon?

Ok

of course and at 7000rpm it would make a difference but on the starter motor no....

As its going to affect all cylinders I think whatever procedure you use its equal readings and not the actual figures reached thats most important. And surely if sparkplugs are out you dont need to worry about the carbs as we're only talking starter motor engine speed?