johny

Have a close look at the groove in the gear lever where the circlip sits as if this is worn theres a good chance it'll slip out again. That split washer which most have is just a dust cover to stop debris contaminating the sliding surfaces....

for your later single rail box the lever goes to right, lift and forward for reverse👍

Yes the reverse stop plate is present but as an aside looks the wrong way round as I think its vertical groove should be facing inwards for the stop bolt to slide down. However theres definitely a problem with the lever return spring/circlip as it should always force the lever fully upwards and until this is resolved gear changes will be never be correct. You need to rotate and unlatch the lever dome cover and compare the internals with the picture in the manual...

Could the voltage be low for a while after a start as the dynamo tries to recharge the battery? Other than that theres just the calibration of the tacho itself so speak to the supplier?

According to the interweb you must have a good 12v supply to the tacho or it might read high so both dynamo? output at tickover and earthing of the tacho must be satisfactory... I like the rev limit youve set😁

Looks nice but how do you know the tacho reads fast?

Abroad now UK quite often gets mistaken for Ukraine anyway...

ha, ha yes first thing to check if the carbs are overflowing!

It runs rough even on tickover? If so that would have to be a really serious problem with fuel supply as it only needs a whiff at that stage....

Yes I believe apart from being used in diggers and industrial machinery on the continent Denso mini alternators are also used in those micro cars that, as they can be driven without a driving licence, are quite popular there...

Does sound like the most plausible possibility although as always our cars are cunning and can throw in electrical faults just when least expected😬

5.75" sealed beam inner and outer units are available new on eBay but usually only 50w not 75w. They would also undoubtly have a different lens pattern so the only other alternative is wait for the correct item to come up for sale. For these reasons most people go to a halogen conversion...

And at least they have string on to know which way round they go...

Exactly plus the higher the alternator rating the bigger the wiring you have to put in just in case of the maximum current demand (for example supplying a discharged battery). I doubt any conversion kit is going to fit all alternators as they come in a myriad of different shapes however the Denso installation Paul did would be my preferred option....

The principal advantage of changing to an alternator isnt really the increase of the maximum output available as its unusual in a classic to install much extra demand (think heated screens and steering wheels, electric mirrors, seats and steering) but the power that can be generated at low revs. Especially if any extra lighting is LED 40amp will be plenty so why carry the unnecessary weight of anything bigger?

Is it silver coloured like original and can you get it in rolls as I find 'kits' a rip off?

that is impressive although of course also depends how long the replacements last....

Must admit doesnt look original but as you say lasts and there doesnt seem to be any other material easily available...

yes its a technical term for a great material that, along with fibreglass, cardboard and tin cans, can be used to repair body damage when its decided that welding in new metal is either too time consuming, beyond our ability, requires equipment we dont have or just too much hassle😁

Cutting it would leave open ended strands of gauze wire which could come loose so if your pump has a strainer fitted I would recommend prising open the tabs that hold the gauze sheet on the mk1 sump and removing it completely. Theres also the difficulty of threading your pump intake, which may be angled, through the gauze as you try to install the sump...

Not time to upgrade to copper Dave? A poor condition fuel pipe would be a MOT fail and is pretty easy to change...

Canley seem have the MK1 type sump in stock if youre stuck although it probably will need the gauze sheet modifying (not difficult)...

yes the mk1 engine sump had a gauze mesh sheet across it to catch any debris and its oil pump intake was open while the mk2 engine sump had the gauze in the end of the oil pump intake instead. Ive used a later oil pump in my Mk1 Vitesse engine and the sump gauze sheet had to be ripped out as the new pumps intake filter wouldnt fit into it - I believe this is the only difference...

Looks like theres one part number of sump for Vitesse Mk2, GT6 Mk2 and 3 then another for Vitesse 1600 and mk1 2L plus GT6 Mk1 so they probably relate to the model of engine not the car. There can be sump problems with using saloon engines but I cant see why your Mk2 Vitesse engine with its correct sump shouldnt go straight in a Mk1 GT6....

Without wanting to frighten anybody though I would be on the listen out for low level continuous noise from the running engine. I read an article years ago which said if the sixes big ends and mains were replaced at 50 and 70k respectively the crank would last indefinitely. Thats certainly about when Ive found the bearings worn and replaced them, the last time only realising the mains were deteriorating when somebody else pointed out the noise😲 Doing this (plus a new oil pump) has definitely reduced start up rattle and improved oil pressure...