johny

Ok well if you can confirm that reverse is on the right then Im flummoxed🤔

Paddocks part numbers look same as Rimmers and theres quite a price difference between the two different sized clutches. Im beginning to think you have a 3 rail gearbox as Ive described and maybe even a 1300 engine...

According to Rimmers clutch kit part number GCK160P is for Spitfire/Midget 1500 and GCK272P for 1360 Herald. The 1500 should have a bigger 7.25" diameter clutch because of the extra torque it produces while the 1360 has 6.5" unit. Perhaps yours has already been converted to a 3 rail gearbox with smaller clutch rather than the usual 1500 single rail - the former has reverse gear selected by pushing the lever to the left while the later gearbox reverse is on the right?

Its difficult to know Dave whether carburation problems come from higher engine temperature or high under bonnet temperature or both as most likely theyre connected. Either way you need to do some thing about it and in my case the only measure Ive taken is to replace the mechanical fan with a decent electric fan which keeps the engine temperature down and additionally moves more air under the bonnet so whatever the cause was I now dont get carburation problems....

Has the rocker shaft got to come off anyway to get to the head bolts on a mk2?

They should have painted them green though😂

Out of interest will you be retorquing the head after a few miles?

Did you check chain wear as per the manual? Sprockets dont look bad but new chain will wear rapidly to suit them....

No, I believe the A frame referred to is a towing arrangement where all 4 wheels of the car remain on the ground as the frame itself has no wheels...

Yes non OD single rail boxes are 3 inches longer than their 3 rail equivalent. Thats probably too much to accommodate with a standard propshaft so a non OD Vitesse propshaft is the only other standard one that would do the job. However this has a different flange for the diff but that could actually help as with a 1500 engine it would be nice to have the 3.89 ratio diff from the Vitesse as well. Though then the last sticking point is that the Vitesse diff has different output flanges so wouldnt match the Herald half shafts but luckily the two diffs quarter shafts can be easily swopped over and you can finally drive off into the sunset😊

However, although not ideal, the majority of the bearings are accessible from under the car with the engine in place...

Excellent now if you can just get the plastic radiator overflow pipe to stay full all the time (assuming the bottle has sufficient in it) your cooling system will be working 100% correctly....

yes my favourite possibility is crank bearing caps mixed up or on wrong way round😞

It is still possible that the starter motor isnt giving full starting torque even though it spins ok on no load. Theres a test in the workshop manual but of course it needs specialised equipment to do it🙁About the best you could do is try to find another starter to confirm the engine has a problem before going any further...

could try spinning without the plugs in? Also of course you havent tried a jump lead on the positive side which is where theres more likely to be a problem...

Should look like this and you can see it matches the bridge piece in the previous pic...

Ah in that case you can just about see in this pic where the gasket sits on the bridge piece. They match the shape of each of its end where it seals up into the block...

This is a strange one because I dont think a gasket was used on the mk1 six cylinder engine - I can only find it on Canley's drawing of the mk2 and is not mentioned in the workshop manual. This follows my own experience as when I tried to use the subsitute UKC8321 gaskets on my mk1 the aluminium bridge piece wouldnt sit flush with the base of the block and the sump gasket would never have sealed. In the end I just used a sealant and no gaskets....

I couldnt post on the original of this thread but wanted to know if a broken circlip would even stop 4th being selectable?

They are restorable, have a look for a good how-to thread on here. I'll be doing mine soon - one day😏

The cappings are galvanised which is why they last so well except for accidental scrapes. I think the choice is try to clean up any damage as best as possible and keep the galvanising OR take it all off to get a perfect surface but one which may look different and will also need much more regular polishing. Of course re-galvanising might be an option but Ive never heard of it being done....

Pity someone doesnt do the overriders in stainless as Id prefer that to poor chrome and anyway on a Vitesse they would match the aluminium bumper cappings better!

Sump says 16 - 18 lb.ft and they should maintain minimum of 8 lb.ft after a settling period (in other words the spring washers have to be good). No mention of the bolts that go into the aluminium bridge pieces and I reckon these should be the same to assure oil tightness...

My free to download Vitesse/GT6 manual says 8 - 10 lb.ft and the pumps are very similar...

That sounds more like the technique for hydro dipping which might be another possibility and would certainly give better coverage...