johny

Definitely CD150s in the photos looking exactly the same as mine...

The manual does cover the later carb but the majority of the info is for the CD as fitted to my 1967 Vitesse mk1. It answers every question you have asked with photos and diagrams... Saying that of course carbs have been fiddled with over the years so you may have some other bits fitted...

As I say pretty sure the bracket has to be screwed down to the clamp plate first so then the board has to fit up behind it and then self-tappers put through into the bracket...

Think it must be missing on yours as this is the item from Rimmers and you can see the two holes at the bottom (image upside down) which correspond pretty neatly with Trigolf's bracket...

The first photo shows the fast idle screw and adjusts the idle revs when using the choke while the second pic is the stop screw. Each carb should have a stop screw which you use to ensure they are both working equally before doing up their connecting linkage. The fast idle screw is only present on the back carb as said linkage will automatically transfer its operation to the front carb. Note however once the choke is pushed in the cam must no longer touch the fast idle screw... Have you got the free to download Vitesse/GT6 Triumph workshop manual from vitessesteve.co.uk ?

Right yes must be a convertible thing and looking at Rimmers product the top is lightly curved with a cut out to fit round the strengthener on the underside of the boot deck in your photo. This indicates the board is meant to be quite a exact fit in those four top holding brackets so I would suggest the method of installation is to slide it up into those and then push the base up against the bottom securing strip before fixing with screws. Therefore the strip should be on the inside of the board because there wont be enough room to lift the edge of the board up over it...

Dont think a panel there is standard fitment. Certainly doesnt show in the manual so I think it was fitted by an owner many moons ago...

I filled the underside of the tray part of my fibreglass cover with polyurethane foam and then stuck the insulation round the top side as smoother and less oily so better adhesion. The sound deadening is just as good but obviously no heat reflection if using the silver foil stuff...

Its true when you blow the pic up doesnt look like a crack! However probably time the discs were changed anyway...

Yes the manual diagram is pretty good and you can see theres no route for leaks and also no point filling above the top of the damper tube and as John says better a bit below...

yes I think thats the normal problem, they get overfilled and excess is lost when the piston is fully raised so making it look like theres a leak but of course the level is still correct. This can be verified with the damper in place by lifting the piston fully by hand through the carb mouth and there should be resistance felt all the way...

I use coppaslip sparingly on all sliding surfaces in the drums...

There is a theory that more danger does increase driver carefulness and I believe experiments have been carried out to test this by removing roads signs and traffic lights. I certainly treat my Vitesse with a lot of respect when driving it after having put the first one on its roof...

yes its the 1960s equivalent of an airbag which of course, equally, you dont want too solid or too flat!

Ha, in the manual it says this as well which is not quite as specific😁

yes the steering should be pretty good even with no grub screw but I suppose in reality there maybe be a little play that tightening the grub screw will remove...

Well the clamp plate (the grub screw goes into this) bolts must be tightened first with the grub screw completely slackened. Check the steering play and it should be minimal then tighten the grubscrew and finally lock it with the nut....

Thats certainly what the manual says and of course in the event of an accident this is what sets the force of impact on the steering wheel needed to collapse the column (assuming that its not fully shortened already). The locknut should then be done up as otherwise the grub screw could loosen leaving the steering wheel free to slide back and forth while driving. However I wonder if this is really where the play youve found is coming from as the steering drive is transmitted by the flat plate not the grub screw so is that also loose?

Well it wouldnt help with wear as its the action of pulling on the handbrake that makes those grooves. The handbrake angle lever is pulled hard against the backplate and the pivots then rotate slightly to push the shoes out into contact with the drum. This action of pull and rotate plus a bit of road dirt is perfect for a grinding action☹️ If your handbrake is correctly adjusted and theres some slack in the cable I dont think slight grooves is any problem because the pivots can go back into the slave as it slides during braking. Saying that the last pattern slaves I fitted had poor castings and the pivot slots had to be opened up just to allow their installation....

It could be that it failed closed and never got replaced. However more likely is that it was removed in an attempt to improve cooling because the engine runs hot. This doesnt help and as you say just extends warm up time🙁

Noooo they work by covering up the damage thats going on to the paintwork underneath - its a case of what you cant see doesnt worry you😊

While checking timing with strobe see if it advances when you rev the engine and that the dizzy centrifugal weights are not seized (see manual for the amount of advance you should be getting)....

Going back the carb pistons, can you lift them with your finger all the way up (engine not running) and then they drop back down with a nice clunk as they hit the bridge?

Yes and they seem a funny choice of metric size otherwise...

Not convinced about the 'more complete burn' as surely once ignited the flame propagates through the mixture regardless of what the spark then does? Proper combustion is more about ensuring every fuel molecule is surrounded by sufficient oxygen so atomisation and mixing are the key factors...