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johny

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Everything posted by johny

  1. If you are going to change the seals these look quite good and come with a 2 year warranty (for what thats worth).... 2 x Triumph Spitfire Herald GT6 Vitesse Front Trunnion Suspension Rubber Seals | eBay
  2. If thats the only reason for dismantling the suspension I would leave as is but stick to the lubrication schedule of the trunnions so that the oil you inject regularly pushes out any dirt that gets in. Saying that if you MOT the car it may well be picked up by the tester....
  3. Been a lot of discussion on here Paul on changing over with different opinions, methods and outcomes. I would have a read through some of the threads as theres various issues to consider....
  4. ah yes I didnt see the earlier post and thought it was the trunnion bush seals. A lot of work then to replace the top seal (for what it does its more a dust cover) when as Pete says the quality these days could mean the replacement wont last long anyway☹️
  5. True but hopefully its, as usual, just the plastic bushes that need replacing which means the trunnion can stay in its place....
  6. Its a pity the chinese ones dont seem to be available in the UK and the EU, with the accompanying duties, appears to be the only source. At 163 pounds including delivery theyre much cheaper and although the welds may not be as pretty as some my experience of these cheapy aluminium rads has been good. Of course the GT6 model is a bit more complicated so I cant vouch for the accuracy of its dimensions....
  7. well the trunnion comprises the bronze threaded casting which can have worn threads so is loose on the vertical link. There will always be some play here especially if not kept lubricated with oil but if minimal save your money as theyre quite expensive. Then theres the plastic bushes and seals that fit in the lower part of the trunnion and these are whats usually worn and so replaced....
  8. as soon as a wheel comes off the ground the spring is at its full travel because its integral shock is fully extended so no worries there. As for the anti roll bar if both front wheels are off the ground there will be no torque stored in it so everything can be undone without risk...
  9. That sounds like the critical wire to earth the dizzy backplate while allowing it to move. This is still needed with the Accuspark which must have its base earthed to function. Be careful with the unit as, unlike points, if installed incorrectly you run the risk of knackering it....
  10. Ive got one of those for about 7 quid and its pretty good (just used it in my bores and valves). Takes a bit of practice to recognise what youre looking at sometimes and of course the image is only in focus at very close range. Its a rigid tube about 5" long but I think could be used to view the friction plate boss especially if attached to a piece of wire rod...
  11. You might be able to inspect the boss with a boroscope if you cant see it by eye through the bell housing operating arm opening...
  12. Are you sure the friction plate is in the right way round Iain? Deeper side of boss outwards otherwise it can jam against the flywheel and interfere with the power transfer through the friction surface?
  13. well compression ratio can get important if, like me, you hope to skim the head. Then I will have to work out how much to take off to get a little boost in ratio👍
  14. Hmmm I suppose Gareth could test the clutch operation by getting the back wheels off the ground and then with engine running get someone to operate the clutch while he checks how much drive is still getting to the wheels....
  15. If none of that works its just possible the gear lever linkage is worn as that can do funny things...
  16. Wonder if the clutch is dragging and keeping torque on the gears so they dont want to separate? I take it you can slide it into neutral while still moving ok?
  17. Trouble is if ride height too low with standard spring the shock could bottom out which would make for a harsh ride!
  18. johny

    Exhaust db killer

    Well its a perfect fit in the tail pipe and Ive used it without the central plug because I think thatll be too restrictive. Just needs a good run now....
  19. Think this is very rough calc as you could have a very high CR but a low reading because the valves dont seal or the bore/piston rings are worn!
  20. Yes many people assume LT problem but really worth checking HT at coil output first to quickly narrow down the search....
  21. Its just that so much has been changed over the years by POs you dont really know what the original size thrusts were☹️ Not even sure all after market thrusts come stamped...
  22. In fact I reckon to lose 5 thou off a crank would require a huge mileage with numerous thrust changes or some kind of seizure. As the first is unlikely I would just confirm the crank thrust surface condition and fit the required size bearings...
  23. The trouble is I dont think you can know what the block was originally as the castings were all over the place in those days so they just machined em and then fitted what ever thrust was needed to get within tolerance. Believe there used to be even thicker thrust sizes available originally but no longer...
  24. Wow big difference in cost there! Im not sure even when crank was new standard size thrusts were always used as it depends on the block machining as well. Of course you have to inspect the bearing surfaces but if ok Ive got no problem using oversize thrusts...
  25. To the job properly you need a micrometer to measure up what youve got otherwise you have to put in known size new thrusts, measure the float and then if incorrect buy what you need...
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