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RogerH

TSSC Member
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Everything posted by RogerH

  1. RogerH

    12v Heater

    +1 read here for the TR project SPAL Fan Roger
  2. RogerH

    LPG

    The methane that cows (ruminants) produce comes mainly from the mouth. Partly digested food fermenting in their bio-digester. Once deeper inside towards the smelly end the methane reduces. Humans are not ruminants and so do not burp up gases in any significant volume. Roger
  3. Hi Folks, the 'Green stuff' stick on anti squeal pads work very well. The last set of actual brake pads were rubbish and I now use Ferodo FDS167 (TR4A) with no pad/shims/grease. Roger
  4. Hi Colin, TEX have a very good website with a great many mirrors. https://texautomotive.com/product-category/mirrors/ Roger
  5. As a simple approach I would seriously look at the 'O' rings over the rear flange. According to the boys down under it works. Roger
  6. Hi Colin the earlier lip seal mod for the TR wet liner engines used the LandRover seal and required the crank to be ground down to suit the seal. The Ferguson TE20 also had a lip seal 'way back when' and this didn;t require the crank grinding. Fast forward to present day and the Christian Marx lip seal fits the 4 pot engines with NO grinding of the crank. But !!! I bet the TR crank is a some what different size to a Spitfire etc. There is also the Australian 'O' ring method. Fit two snugly fitting 'O' rings over the crank rear flange so they sit up against the scroll seal. http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/technical/scrollseal.htm Any oil leaks keep the rings lubricated. Roger
  7. Hi BC, not sure how the Revo controller works but most of these would do what you want Switches You need to power the fan through a relay. The relay then takes the BIG amps and the switch takes the small amps. As you do not know what these switches are - are you happy working on electrics on your car !!!?? Roger
  8. Quick link to the cars https://www.mathewsons.co.uk/car-category/all_lots/ Roger
  9. The OD inhibit switch had this thread (5/8" 13tpi) . Prior to the WW2 metric threads on the continent were all over the place and not formalised fully. But, how did they end up with a thread that didn't exist ANYWHERE. Possibly patent protection for the switch manufacturer As mentioned - UNF have a better clamping effect due to their shallower thread angle. UNS is simply UNF in specialist situations. Another oddity is the 5/16" stud (6 off) in the rear suspension trailing arms. Everybody says it should be UNC. But NO!!! UNF with its low torque and clamping effect will work better Roger
  10. Hi Folks, my brain hurts. UNS is a normal thread form. It is designed for those special occasions. 9/16 X 28 tpi what is wrong with that. There are dozens and dozens of thread forms - some used more than others. The Overdrive switches (on the TR2-6) are 5/8" diameter X 13tpi if you look at every thread table in the universe it does not exist. But it does !!! Most people use M16 X 2mm it fits. it works but it is wrong Roger
  11. They are a standard (60 degree) UNF thread form but with a special TPI Roger
  12. The manuals have been known to be wrong 9/16"Whit is 12tpi Roger
  13. 9/16" UNS can be 28tpi - look at the TRacy Tools webpage https://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-dies/brass-cycle-special?page=2 Roger
  14. Hi Ian, I have a TR4A so bigger engine and GB+OD. I have removed the GB separate and also with the engine. There is more work when you take all out the front but it is easier In September I used a very low hoist to lift the GB out. I found removing the heater helped to put it all back. None of this may apply to you. But, if your mechanic only wants £200 to do the job then let him go ahead and do it. Just make sure that he knows what needs doing. On the TR4A it is usual to replace the taper pin on the clutch fork. Roger
  15. Have you got a clear picture of the assembly.? Roger
  16. RogerH

    Tyres

    Not all tyres like all cars. Not all cars like all tyres. I fitted Continentals to my TR4A and they squealed like a pig (just like in an American movie) The car works well with Vredstein T-Track (cheap but ugly) or the Sport classic (nice looking but expensive) I'm sure other Vitesse owners will guide you better. Roger
  17. TSSC Pony Express - from one member to the next up country
  18. Hi Colin, I have an Aerospace background. The bolts we used had a length based on the shank. So a 2" long bolt had a 2" long shank PLUS approx 1/2" thread. In the Automobile world a 2" bolt includes the thread that could be 1" long. Very poor practice. Roger
  19. Just a guess but would be so easy to sort on a jig and then install. This would suit the production line method. Roger
  20. Hi Paul, with the dozens of choices to buy ignition parts from it is a minefield out there. I would only ever buy from Martin Jay 'the Distributor Doctor' http://www.distributordoctor.com/ He does only quality stuff. Roger
  21. Hi Pete, don't know what surgery you have had but do take it steady. With the years ticking on recovery does take its time. No point in putting back the recovery rate just to get the car sorted quicker than is needed. Look after your self. Roger
  22. Could you not weld a decent nut onto the round nut. The heat would do it good as well. Roger
  23. Hi Jeremy, Firstly are you capable of doing engine work? If not get your trusted garage to have a look to see the extent of the damage- there is wear and there is worn out !!!! When you et the car back on the road it will reward you with daily smles from ear to ear. I spent £25K on my TR4A rebuild in the 90's - was worth probably £12K when I finished bit over the last 23 years it has paid it back and a great deal more. Roger
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