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RogerH

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Everything posted by RogerH

  1. I rebuilt a TR4 engine about 6 years ago. Had the block worked on and acid cleaned. All looked very good. A week after initial start up ( and on a long run) oil p*ss*d out the front and back. the rebuilder had removed the oil gallery plugs and then refitted them loosely. I can understand why they did it but they never told me and so the were never tightened. I had to removed the engine, strip the front and back and finish the job with new plugs. That will NEVER happen again Roger
  2. Hi Colin, to get the studs in use the double nut method. That usually works. Rimmers appear to have the studs in stock. I would have thought the thread would be either UNF or UNC. Good luck Roger
  3. Hi Colin, can you weld a steel nut to the studs and unscrew them that way. The heat may also loosen the stub in the manifold. Do not go the Stainless direction. Quite often the steel studs for the manifold are copper plated to resist corrosion. Stick with the brass nuts. Roger
  4. Hi Mathew, that can happen and it is bl**dy annoying. The sales person tried to explain that individual parts come from wherever the best deal is. The kit is supplied as a kit from elsewhere and can be more. So they can't sell the kit at the parts price. It is a crazy world based on cheap Roger
  5. A brake pipe type 'flare' would not work. Consider something on the lines of a plumbers 'Yorkshire' fitting. Swagged ring This is standard practice in industry and our car parts should have them without asking. If you are desperate for the swagged ring but do not want to buy the machine to do it, consider soldering a ring of copper wire in the appropriate place. However. the down pipe from my pump to the bottom of the radiator on my 4A has no flare and always has stayed put. Use the PTFE only if there is doubt over the joint. Roger
  6. I fitted EBC vented discs to my 4A many moons ago. The splitting of the calipers became interesting. The supplied bolts began to stretch like` liquorice when I got near their supplied torque figure of 60lbs.ft. When I contacted EBC they said 'oh well, use 50lbs.ft see if that works' !!!! I used the originals that were only just long enough. They have held very well ever since Roger
  7. I have cheap LED headlights (NightEyes from China via ebay) £19/pair and they work very very well. Roger
  8. Hi Rabbit, on your car you can fit LED bulbs to your headlights. The MOT will check the bean beam spread and all being OK it will pass. Roger
  9. RIP Prince Philip. We will not see your like again. Roger
  10. Have a look here for a good selection of aircraft grade adhesives. A good number of Araldite's to choose from. https://www.lasaero.com/products/category/B02XV0WWL/ Don;t forget the surface preparation and keying. Roger
  11. RogerH

    Loosing weight

    Hi John, the 6000 Ali Alloy series can be heat treated and in the T6, T6x, T6xx condition it becomes quite 'strong' Not quite the same as 7075T6 but getting on that way. Sadly many 6000 grades do not have their temper stated (the T rating) and so it is an unknown quantity. 6061 T0 is used for a lot of tubing and can be bent easily. If you know what you are doing you could re-temper to a higher state 6000 series is used on aircraft but not usually structural. Roger
  12. Silicone brake fluid should not (does not) affect the rubber seals. Even if the seals were used with DOT4 before hand. If you flush your master cylinder out and put new DOT 4 fluid in the fluid will turn black pretty quickly. I thing SBF will do the same. I don't think it is the seals. Possibly an effect of the seals polishing the Ali bore. Roger
  13. A Metal Finisher (plating shop) should be able to sort out the dent and remove the scratch. You can easily 'silver solder stainless but you need the correct flux. I'm sure you can soft solder (with the correct flux) Roger
  14. Hi Folks, this was posted on another forum the other - so the LED problem as gone away (assuming they meet the basic MOT beam spread conditions) Roger
  15. plastic, wood, any soft shouldn't go on a grind wheel - but I get your drift. Roger
  16. I have an earlier DVM and it is very good. Go for the multimeter. At 200W the bench grinder is too small. Roger
  17. Hi Folks, this has just been posted on the TRR forum Roger
  18. Will the TSSC be in contact with the FBHVC to fight our case. Not all LED's are useless and many work very well in the H4 lens unit. Roger
  19. Or better still - put it in for the MOT. IF it fails (most testers will not be bothered to look to hard) then change the bulbs and get a free retest. I spoke to my MT man and he said He is not allowed to disassemble anything to see what is going on. You need to have special eyesight to see an LED from a Halogen bulb(except for the colour of the glow) Roger
  20. Hi Chris, back in 2015 I was at a meeting of a parts supplier and cheap parts was on the agenda. This well known supplier had cheap, and in my mind poor quality, parts on the shelf. I was asked what I would do. I said I would throw all the cheap rubbish away and ONLY sell quality items (everybody wants quality and will pay for it - dream on) A well respected employee (excellent credentials within the trade) said that can't happen as we would go out of business pretty quickly. People would simply go to Ebay. The TR series of cars is at the upper end of TRiumph motors and spending money is not the routine. If it is cheap and it works that's good enugh. So my mission is to help remove items that fail due to bad manufacture (generally too cheap to be anything else) Roger
  21. Hi James, in my quest for a decent late 60's early 70's Radiomobile radio for my TR4A I purchased a much more modern Motorola off ebay. The seller gumph suggested it was Morris Marina vintage. It works as it should. You can have it for the cost of the postage. I think it is model 184 Roger
  22. ....or a socket headed Allan bolt. Allen Bolt Roger
  23. Hi Paul, I believe they are semi-tubualr rivets Rivets They are handy for mass productions as easy to install and cheap. Roger
  24. Hi Colin, that is the whole point. The suppliers must understand that if they p*ss their customers off then they will go else where. Always always always complain about a problem and put it on the forum including the supplier response. Many of them do read these forumnii From a TR perspective TRShop, TRGB and Moss have been very good in listening. They can't always come up trumps immediately but work for an answer. It all takes time - but we are getting there Roger
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