RogerH

Hi Colin, generally any information gathered on a forum is not acted upon by the majority of suppliers. The Parts Quality Initiative (PQI) mentioned in the first post is more robust as the two personnel that run the PQI have dedicated contacts at the 12 main suppliers for TR parts. The process is run to set guidelines and things are expected of the supplier. At the end of the day it is in the interest of the supplier to get it right. As an example we had an issue with TR4 wiper motor stand-offs. Tiddly little part but the supplier was supplying the wrong size. They didn't accept what the customer said and so when we approached them we showed then an old item, a new item from another supplier and their example. When they saw with their eyes what was going on they checked their bins and lo and behold they had the wrong parts in the bins. It took them 5 minutes to sort it out but NOT on the request of the customer. The above PQI isn;t really set up for all the triumph marques but is a good blueprint to work from. Roger

Thanks Roger. Just asking in case it was a TR rear hub. Rebuilt ones are getting dangerous. Roger

Hi Roger, what car are they fitted to. Roger

Hi Peter, I agree with you. Normal practice would be to have section changes blended in to remove sharp edges. But for specific application you may be able to take advantage of where the forces are. In the case of a wheel stud it will be all tensile as applied by the torque loading. Having said that if it were me I would have tapered it. Roger.

Hi Peter, On the #4 stud - between the thread and the splined diameter there is a short plain section of shank. The thread would be rolled (never cut fr these studs) and have a finish similar to the #3 that 'looks' a better design. Under normal conditions the force on these studs tensile applied by the torque loading. Variations in this tensile load is quite small and shock is absorbed by the tyre (usually) Shear loads would be quite small on our cars. I would suggest that studs #3 & #4 are pretty much the same. Roger

Hi Roger, Have you reported the broken new studs to Rimmer. Demand that they look into the problem. 40lbs*ft should not break these studs. What is happening to the studs once torqued up and in service !!!! Roger

Hi, I haven't a clear idea of the type of bezel nut you have but this is what I use on the TR4A bezels Large bezel one side and small bezel on the other Roger

......But!!. Could the LED be designed for the original headlamp to get the correct beam pattern. This whole matter is as daft as when HiD's were first legalised for road use and blinding everybody on the road. Roger

Thanks for that. I suspected it may be tight. But I do not really have a clue about these cars. Roger

Hi Folks, I have no idea of the structure (I have a 4A - quite different) but is it possible to fit RivNuts. You need about 1/2" on the rear face clearance You do have to drill holes but these can be done very cleanly ad the protected. Then all you need are the holes i the rubber. Easy to remove for cleaning/replacing every fortnight. I have done this on my wheel arch liners and it works well. Roger

Hi Robin, most dash LED's are a straight swap. Relays are usually fitted to the headlights to overcome volts drop in the long loom. Roger

I assume the plate is quite thin - so how about a steel RivNut. Roger

Hi Roger, I am very impressed with your welding. I wish I could do such things. As the item has only one bolt securing it is it OK for it to be welded in a fixed position? I do not know the structure so just asking. Roger

TRiumph white (19) is quite nice. Spa White (no code) is a tad brighter and used on the TR4 (dash board amongst other places). I wanted an Old English White. I haven't a clue as to the code/maker etc as the silly painter binned the code before he recorded it. It is definitely White on the car and not bright. But on a swatch card it is definitely Mushroom, very light fawn. However I think it looks excellent. The nearest Halfords colour swatch I can find is Maserati Bird cage white. Sadly the local Maserati dealership wasn't interested in helping me. Roger

Hi Paul, Why not simply sell it. Most motor museums already have a good selection of Herald/Vitesse etc. They may not be too interested if it needs money spent on it. But then, it is worth asking if that is what you want. Regarding keeping it but you do not have the room - have you got any space that the car can sit on. If yes, then there are inflatable bubbles (Carcoon) that work very well. Good luck Roger

Hi Peter, there is total logic. Regarding the rear suspension trailing arms (on the IRS cars) the UNF thread is specified as the torque loading is very small (16 lb.ft). With this low loading the UNF thread is able to withstand undoing by vibration due to the more oblique thread angle. it could be posible for a UNC tread to vibrate loose. I accept a UNC thread with a higher torque load looks more correct but perhaps the torque could not be increase. The increase in material cross section with UNC compared to UNF is marginal. So a low torque load controls the thread form. Roger

Hi Roger, that appears to be an old British practice on cars. Short shank and loads of thread - utterly daft. In aerospace the shank is always that load bearing section and you never have components sitting on threads. Correct shank with adequate thread for nut and locking. Modern cars have finally come round to that thinking also. I suspect the short shank / long thread was a cost saving practice - where you can use that bolt in many places and still tighten the nut. Roger

Hi Roger, not a lot to see there. I assume that the threads are rolled. Cutting with a die is not good for high loads. Very odd. Roger

Hi Roger, can you post a well focused close up picture. I may be able to see what is going on. What diameter of stud? What car? Roger

I thought a dual system operated diagonally opposite brakes. FNS & ROS - FOS & RNS so you have one front brake and one rear brake. Roger

I had an army of mice last winter. Moth balls were useless - utterly and totally. The best remedy was a simple cheap 'Little Nipper' mouse TRap from B&Q. I also used some ready baited boxes. I had an assortment of mice with a broken neck and others with sudden death syndrome in the middle of the workshop floor. 13 in total was my tally. Roger

That may have been a mineral type oil. In the 1970's I used to do X-ray inspections on aircraft at BEA. The X-ray tubes were quite heavy and would get dragged along the hangar floor to position the exposure. On rare occasions a tube casing would get a leak where it got worn through. This produced a stream of hot pressurised mineral oil. The smell could clear a hangar of hairy engineers in minutes. Roger

+1 BondaRust Primer is not porous. Not so easy to remove but rubs down well. BondaRust I like the Phos Kleen product - not seen it before Roger

On my TR4A I had my wires coming out near the top of the forward front face of the door. The wires were wrapped in 'Spirrap' and this allows the cables to hang down in a controlled fashion. https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-58-sleeving/p-513-spiral-wrap I don't know if you have the same space between door and A post Roger

Excellent to know Roger