Iain T

It looks like the type of filter you can clean. Perhaps it's restrict fuel flow? Iain

What plugs are you using and when was the last time you changed or inspected them? Its the cause of the oily plugs that also needs investigating. Does the engine use much oil? I have similar hill problems when I first bought my Vitesse and it was down to lack of fuel and running very lean. Iain

Or no damper oil in one carb? You've opened Pandora's Box now!

Having tried 3 weights in my Stromberg carbs it makes a big difference! It alters the rise of the air piston(valve) which has a large effect on the fuel mixture. Generally the lighter spring is a weaker mixture but then there are the needle taper and damper oil effects to consider. I found choosing the correct needle/spring is paramount and damper oil changes acceleration mixture. Take a peek at my topic Vitesse needle the story in this section. All fun and games and I've not yet posted my latest and greatest! Iain

The paint invariably comes off. The only way is to test the compression force at a regulated distance. Stromberg springs have a weight in grammes at a compression height of 53mm. Easily done with a cardboard cylinder cut to length and a setof kitchen scales. Just compress the spring with something flat to the cylinder and read how many grammes it requires. Iain

For E10 fuel you need R9 spec hose. To be safe although I only use E5 fuel I have replaced all mine with Gates Barricade available from the club shop and other good suppliers. Beware cheap Fleabay hoses! Iain

I have Pertronix and Flamethrower coil. They are very reliable. It's a matter of going through each system and checking. A good way to learn about your car! It sounds like fuel starvation so could be the dreaded rubber slivers. What spec are your hoses? If the PO used E10 and didn't change the hoses that is another possible cause. Do you have in line filter? Do you also have a high lift cam? Normally 1.5" carbs work well on 2 litres including modified engines because the air speed is kept high. Your 1.75" have hopefully been set up with the correct needles for your engine. Iain

Welcome Matt! First off its not E5 fuel as E10 gnats pee shouldn't be used for our engines. I had the same whistle sound and found the previous owner (PO) had used the wrong carb gasket and allowed air in. Sounded like a supercharger winding up! Fitting the correct one and the tickover was much better. Huco pump, I have one, are normally fit and forget. However! I found a soldered wire joint and heat sealed joint holding on by a strand and caused some 'ead scratching as the fault was intermittent. Check wire and connections. As it ran OK I think the timing is at least acceptable. However (again) the electronic ignition can play up. What make and type is fitted? That'll do for starters the guru's will be along sooooon! Iain PS Don't all 2 litres use 1.5" carbs? Is your engine standard?

The gap between the brass ring the back of my boss is bigger than with a standard boss. It's down to offsets in the die casting hence the need to have a spacer but perhaps it's pushing the plunger in too far so I'll add reducing the spacer length to the job list. Iain

Do you have relays in your horn circuit?

As its a non standard boss I've had to use a spacer to get the pencil to contact the ring. Perhaps I need to take another couple of mill off the spacer. Iain

Interesting posts, my horn pencil scrapes round the column brass disc. Can I smear copperslip round the ring in an attempt to minimise the noise? Iain

I might have misremembered and only fitted to the manifold? Anyway drive like you've stolen it, it's more fun! 😁

Honestly fit a Lambda sensor and air/fuel ratio meter before a vacuum gauge. I bought a stand alone vacuum gauge with fittings and plugged it in from the rocker cover to manifold and bypassed the pcv. Used to see what the vacuum was but didn't really aid me to tune the engine anywhere near as much as an afr meter. It aids ignition setting but if you have pancake filters it can muck up the reading. Iain

They can as without them due to the piston rising too quickly the mixture will run very lean under loaded acceleration and stall. First off I assume they are the correct springs installed and 20/50 oil in the dash pot? Is there resistance when you try and lift the air piston with your finger? If OK I would try richening up the mixture to see if that helps. If its still bunny hopping I would start on the ignition. Iain

The big difference is the CDS has the choke enrichment disc mechanism as well as slight butterfly lift.

I know it's obvious but don't forget to loosen the throttle shaft connection between the two carbs then adjust idle and balance. Also make sure there is some slack on the throttle cable or the back carb may be held back on the cable not the stop screw. I may be guilty of this misdemeanor....... Iain

Sorry I forgot about the CDSE top adjusters! I'm blinkered as I've only tampered with the CDS bottom adjuster carbs.

Isn't it really the oil spilling over the sliding joint between the air piston and cap. I agree best to check regularly to dampen the rise in the piston or the mixture will go lean on acceleration. Iain

I don't think there is a way for oil to drain out of the air valve (piston) as its a sealed unit. You don't need to fill to the cap top only to around the top of the piston. You can see the ring line about 1" down from the top of the cap. If you fill to the top it will drain away. Iain

My original looking aftermarket vacuum pipe was a very loose fit at the ends so I replaced it with vacuum hose from in my case Halfords. It's a thick walled hose to stop it collapsing and about 10mm diameter. Iain

Looks like metal thickness clearance for a bracket or the like?

The one's Jigsaw fitted for the PO are narrow top and bottom. I've moved the rack over to miss the phoenix manifold but can't see a welded stop. I have 20mm gap to the casting offside and 3mm the other. It looks a pita to change the mounts and I have no idea what rack Jigsaw installed. What I did find today was I could tighten the steering wheel boss nut a few mill. Unfortunately the taper on the aftermarket boss and original column are a gnats c**k different😡 I think because I had to move the rack I have no option but to retain the solid block mounts. For piece of mind I might fit a jubilee clip or make a spacer to stop any possible sideways movement. New idea...padded driving gloves! Iain

Another reason I don't trust them! There is quite a gap from the ali clamps and stop. If it moves it would be quite alarming. What also worried me was the quality of the s/steel U bolts used on my solid mounts. I've seen soooooo many threads snap like carrots! Iain

Chris witor sells the poly bushes. I'll have to buy the clamps, donations kindly accepted😂. From memory Johny is correct and the bushes are retained by stops on the rack.