thescrapman

John, treat yourself to some of the Pennine 20/50 that the club sells, especially if you catch it when on special offer. It has been good for me recently. I also use Millers CSS20/50 and Valvoline VR1. the VR1 consistently gave 10PSI less at 3000rpm, and that was seen by multiple other people as well, but never faltered however hot the engine.

I have used NGK BP5ES for many years, but I did find the 6's fouled on the PI cars sometimes. Had one PI that would oil and or soot up the 5's so I have tried some 3-prong Bosch ones recommended by Nick Jones. They seem fairly immune to the PI cars. I have always managed to recover the fouled NGK by wire brushing and cleaning off with thinners. then cook the end over a gas ring.

As this is the first time it has played up it is almost certainly not the main gearbox, but bits attached to it. A second opinion is a good idea before you do anything costly.

My local MOT guy is certainly Triumph Friendly, probably all BL friendly as he served his apprenticeship in the London cal Austin Rover dealership. I am impressed by the NI system, though I would want a "Classic Lane" 🙂

At this moment in time, only 1 of my cars has a valid MOT and it was the only one that didn't deserve one. It had to be one of the dodgiest MOT I have ever encountered, and was only 3 weeks old when I got the car. It was physically impossible for the rear brakes to have been working at the time of the MOT, and the handbrake was also totally inoperative. The outer headlights were both faulty (something wrong with the halogen replacement units, they did not have any discernible light pattern)., worn out suspension bushes, removable jacking points (rusted away round the outside) and numerous other minor things I went over the car with a fine toothed comb but someone else could have just driven it round as it had an MOT oblivious to it being possibly lethal. So having an MOT isn't everything. Nearly all the issues now sorted ready for a more legitimate MOT later this year by the way.

One of My detective network has come across the Herald. I has been written off and is up for sale for dismantling I think he said. Sold for £350. We are keeping track on it. I have got a few more pictures of it, I will try and get them posted.

Just exercise the hazard switch in and out, they are notorious for poor contacts.

No not really worth that much. I seem to remember all the parts off that car have been very expensive. you can clearly see the type 16 caliper mounts in the listing photos

I think you are declaring that the vehicle meets the requirements for MOT exemption, so not modified and over 40 years old.

Very last GT6 had the J type I think, Same as last few Mk4 Spitfire got them. there are 2 different rear flanges available, 1 an inch longer. Also 2 different size OD to gearbox plates, again an inch longer. i think you got the longer rear flange if you got the shorter adaptor on an 1850, but if you fit the short flange to the short adaptor the normal OD prop will fit. Certainly did on my Spitfire.

If you had said an inch longer, I would have said you have the long rear flange on a J-type or a single rail box from an 1850

I don't recognise the car, but was probably out and about on the Ipswich to Felixstowe run. I too have noticed that lots of other road users assume an old car is a slow car, Perhaps the lack of older cars on the road means people are either forgetting, or just not encountering any to learn.

Remove the spring assy, you can then easily move the suspension through its entire range to see where it may get touch

Normally it is a small L-shaped bracket spot welded to the backplate with a hole for the return spring to hook into. And the hole wears through, so a washer is welded on to restore the hole. I have not seen the hose one come off, probably needs welding to avoid interfering with brake shoes

Can't be anything too major Download a set of the PI fault finding cards and start working through them. You may be able to spot something obvious yourself

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-beds-bucks-herts-30476591

Any other symptoms? Wet plugs? Was there are fine pulsing spray from the injector? Any odd noises from the pump?

There is a massive battery store at Leighton Buzard, covering for a flaw in the national grid I think.

I bet you don't find the lithium battery packs in scrapyards. i think most are actually turned into power stores as part of the electricity grid

Surely is is just a stuck clutch plate. put it in gear with clutch pedal down, and start it, that usually works. Make sure nothing in front of car for a lng distance in case my advise doesnt work.

Getting the H frame in is a bit of an art. you have to hook it over the gearstick and then pull the feet towards you as you push the top backwards. You may need to lift the dash up to get the top in fully, then heave the feet to their final position.

it is a red GT4, belongs to Mike, a local member. He was offered a GT shell many years ago that was in good nick, so it got used. One day it may go back to being a GT6, but no refitting of the boat anchor yet

Be warned, the semi sports systems can be louder than the full sports ones, particularly if a Bell system. the single pipe Phoenix systems can be quieter, particularly if twinned with a centre silencer

Some transit calipers have different mount spacing, but they are a good source of new pistons and seals when rebuilding a stag calipers. You also get the Stag calipers on some old Sherpas

My Mk3 Spitfire would cruise at 4500 to 5000rpm before I fitted the OD to save my eardrums, I have lower profile tyres which didn't help either.