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First Classic - Spitfire Mk2


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DanMi you're absolutely right there is no rush, I woke up this morning and decided that today I prefer the look of the 155's. I'll get down to some meets and maybe I'll settle on something I like next year.

I'll get news about the head next week I suspect, as I'm away a lot for the next month I told them no rush as I won't be around to collect it anyway. They are going to give it a skim and other various minor bits including a good clean of the engine bay and a new radiator/hoses. 

Used this time to sort out the garage big time - It's got carpet tiles down on it which seem fine for now but will probably wear a lot, I need to get something a bit more hardy to put down under the car - maybe some interlocking plastic tiles.

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  • 2 weeks later...

at least it looks like there are no cracks. Make sure that they use hardened washers rather than standard ones for the head nuts or better still use the flanged nuts CAM4545 (minispares or minisport) from a late mini as ordinary washers can deform and lose clamping force (when I had my engine apart there were none available). You could consider putting unleaded valve inserts in whilst it's out but it should be fine with lead memory for a long time (plus once you start it would end up as a full head rebuild). I hope that those are not your pistons behind the cylinder head!

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1 hour ago, johny said:

These never ending threads, Ive forgotten what the problem was now😞

Blown head gasket, but using the opportunity to get a few extra bits done 🤣 while I'm enjoying the 🌞

1 hour ago, DanMi said:

at least it looks like there are no cracks. Make sure that they use hardened washers rather than standard ones for the head nuts or better still use the flanged nuts CAM4545 (minispares or minisport) from a late mini as ordinary washers can deform and lose clamping force (when I had my engine apart there were none available). You could consider putting unleaded valve inserts in whilst it's out but it should be fine with lead memory for a long time (plus once you start it would end up as a full head rebuild). I hope that those are not your pistons behind the cylinder head!

Thank you for the info, I'll get on that. No I don't think my pistons are coming out!

51 minutes ago, Neil Clark said:

I have to say that the inner surface and the edges of the bonnet on this car are in superb condition.

That's great to hear - you definitely know what you're looking for more than I do!

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For a head gasket I wouldn't worry too much about a formal warranty, you get 6 months under the sale of goods act and a head gasket normally either fails pretty quickly or lasts pretty much forever and any decent garage will stand by their work.

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One reason for failed gaskets, can be the studs, A collection of crud rust etc; arround the base of the studs, enough to stop the gasket sitting properly, or the threads and nuts are binding, in odd cases, the studs can have been taken beyond their elastic limit in the past by overtorqueing, Both the former will "fool" the torque wrench into thinking it correct, when the torque is not actually correct. Good mechanics will be aware, but not all. The later is not always obvious, unless a stud breaks, and the only cure is a set of new studs.

Investing in a decent torque wrench, is always a wise investment and then learning to use it correctly. "We" where brought up doing it. But many no longer do (can on "moderns"). Others may have different tecniques but in general. Getting 50 mile on the clock and retorqueing, and again at 500 or so miles, back the nut off a flat at least before pulling down again. The order is in most w-s manuals as is the correct torque figure.

Pete

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On 08/08/2022 at 07:37, DanMi said:

I believe that Canley classics replace the not so good parts in the usual kit with better parts, but it is a very common job, the hardest part is getting the tunnel out and back in

https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=gear-change-bush-kit  I wouldn't worry that they say out of stock as I believe that they put the kit together to order

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-519770

I think after this mornings run I need one of these!

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I have the option of having the head sent off to get converted to unleaded: Costs circa £600 and will take 4-6 weeks due lead (leed not led! ha) time. 

However I can get one from Canley for £299 Unleaded Cylinder Heads : Canley Classics

 

Are there disadvantages to using one from Canley rather than getting my own original done? I don't need a new head but I thought as it's getting skimmed anyway might as well do it.

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£600 sounds like a lot for a 4 cylinder unleaded conversion. 

Give canleys a call. They may even want your head, or be able to get yours done. Besides, Dave knows more about these cars than almost anybody else, and has access to good workshops etc. I know what I would do.

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TSSC club shop says £315 (member price) that will almost certainly be your head reconditioned done by Ivor Searle who have a good reputation. £600 is just way too much, there will of course be carriage. Canleys will not be a rubbish recon. That price would include a skim, clean new guides (or bronze inserts) new valves, springs and the seats sorted, all in all about £300 is a fair price plus carriage of course their price will include labour to pack your cylinder head and send it to their reconditioners, but also consider any warranty, if you supply the reconditioned parts the garage have no responsibility for warranty of those parts so if there where to be a failure you would have to pay labour to refit, this is why I do the work myself

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It also depends on what the garage are costing, if they are saying it will be an extra £600 on top of removing and refitting the head that is very high, if thy are saying the total cost for head replacement and conversion will be £600 that would be a good deal. 

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2 hours ago, RichTeaBiscuit said:

Perfect thanks chaps, rang this morning and hopefully going down this cheaper avenue - Canley was a 4 month lead time unfortunately, will try Ivor Searle.

I would go via the club shop as it will probably be cheaper

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