DougieM Posted June 16, 2023 Report Share Posted June 16, 2023 Hi all. I’ve got a big oil leak from my 1500 diff even though it hasn’t moved for a few months and it it’s directly below the offside seal. I thought I’d get the driveshafts out for a look at the UC’s whilst doing diffand the first one I’ve pulled seems to be free but not floppy and no play which I guess is good. However! The 4 clips which retain the coupling aren’t what I recognise as circlips with2 holes for pliers, the clips meet in the middle and kind of look like a cake with a wedge cut out of it if that makes sense. Does that imply that I have original 47 year old UC’s? If so, is it dirt that’s making them seem ok rather than being in good condition. any guidance much appreciated. Dougie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 16, 2023 Report Share Posted June 16, 2023 there are many differing circlip legs ,offset.holes .no holes and more its not unusual Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougieM Posted June 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2023 Thanks for the quick reply Pete. Just a thought. Given I’ve got the drive shafts out, is it possible to replace the seals without dropping the diff now. But then I was going to do them all and replace the bushes so not actually worth it in my grand plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 16, 2023 Report Share Posted June 16, 2023 Yes very easy to remove the quarter shafts with bearing and seal by undoing the four allen bolts and pulling out. However there will probably be oil behind them and no diff drain plug! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougieM Posted June 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2023 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 17, 2023 Report Share Posted June 17, 2023 removing the short shafts is as said is easy 4 allen bolts getting the bearings off to swap a new oil seal is a whole different ball game you need a good vice or a slim puller as the bearings are held with a circlip and aright tight fit on the shaft which can be quite a fight Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 17, 2023 Report Share Posted June 17, 2023 Be careful not to damage the backplates as you remove the shaft and bearing; very easily done. My diff now leaks on both sides as I think I distorted mine when replacing the bearings and seals. I've sort-of cured it by drying all the oil from round them then smearing sealer into the gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 17, 2023 Report Share Posted June 17, 2023 yes not easy to get the bearings off especially if you want to reuse them. Ive used a thin blade screwdiver before to get in between the inner race and the shoulder its up against and then working round to gently prise the bearing away. Otherwise if the bearing is to be replaced the outer race can be used to bash it off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted June 18, 2023 Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 On 17/06/2023 at 15:50, Colin Lindsay said: Be careful not to damage the backplates as you remove the shaft and bearing; very easily done. My diff now leaks on both sides as I think I distorted mine when replacing the bearings and seals. I've sort-of cured it by drying all the oil from round them then smearing sealer into the gap. Could you give a bit more info on this please Colin, as the back plate is not at the diff end of shaft. Not done this job before, though interested, as not heard of this possible damage before? Ta, Davejob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 18, 2023 Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 Hes talking about the 'backplate' of the quarter shaft Dave, item 14 here, which houses the seal and can be distorted if you use it to lever the bearing (17) off the quarter shaft... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 18, 2023 Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 (edited) The almost rectangular backplate that Johny has illustrated! The bearing sticks onto the shaft so trapping these and it's tempting, after much heat and broken bearing pullers etc to put them in a vice and whack the end of the quarter shaft. This does free them but it can also bend the backplate, not visibly, until you fit it to the diff and oil comes out round the sides. Edited June 18, 2023 by Colin Lindsay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted June 18, 2023 Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 I have found those bearings to be a real interference fit on the shaft and the only way to separate them is using an American brand Toledo style split bearing puller that is thin enough that it's two halves or jaws can wedge in behind the bearing and then pull the bearing off using the rest of the puller, pulling against the shaft inner end, similar to what PL said. I brought a single sized expensive Toledo split puller sans the threaded puller bar and bridge, then a separate cheap set for the puller and bridge which also came with 3 multi sized jaw sets and I can't fault the comprehensive cheapie set, which cost less than $40. The Toledo one cost more than that itself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 19, 2023 Report Share Posted June 19, 2023 yes they seem to vary as Ive had some easier than others but theres no need for Triumph to have made the fit so tight as the bearing is retained by a circlip anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted June 19, 2023 Report Share Posted June 19, 2023 Well worth checking the breather at the top of the diff. I changed my output shaft bearings recently and had an oil drip despite much care and a smear of the blue stuff. It was caused by a blocked breather and internal pressure. Once cleared the drips ceased. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted June 19, 2023 Report Share Posted June 19, 2023 How I removed/replaced output bearings from the shaft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted June 20, 2023 Report Share Posted June 20, 2023 Would using a cutting blade on an angle grinder to cut a groove in the bearing help to get a puller in? Probably need the flat split plate puller to make it work. (sorry dont know the proper name form it) If going to the bother of replacing the seals then you might as well do the bearings. I had to do that to a pressed on ABS ring recently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 21, 2023 Report Share Posted June 21, 2023 Oh if youre not worried about saving the bearings the job becomes easier as you can clamp it in a vice and bash the shaft... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 21, 2023 Report Share Posted June 21, 2023 6 hours ago, johny said: Oh if youre not worried about saving the bearings the job becomes easier as you can clamp it in a vice and bash the shaft... ...and then it bends the backplate... did that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 21, 2023 Report Share Posted June 21, 2023 (edited) Difficult to see why the backplate should be damaged Colin if only the bearing is clamped and then you hit the inner end of the quartershaft? Might need a brass or copper bar to hit with but the backplate should always be free.... Im talking of the bearing being held radially of course. Edited June 21, 2023 by johny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 21, 2023 Report Share Posted June 21, 2023 Difficult to clamp the sides of the bearing in a vice, they slip and move about, so much easier to set the bearing and the backplate on top, and whack the shaft down through... but you only do that once before realising the backplates are not as strong as you may believe. Heating the centre of the bearing well with a blowtorch may expand it and so break the grip, but you earn these things the hard way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 21, 2023 Report Share Posted June 21, 2023 yes needs a beefy vice to hold the bearing outer race but thats the way I would do it and even then it would probably need a few reclamps and bashes. Ive not had to resort to that yet as used an old thin blade screwdriver down between bearing and backplate then managed to tap between shaft shoulder and inner race gradually all the way round. Of course it all depends on how well its stuck and if heating you would have to try to keep that away from the shaft for maximum effect... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted June 21, 2023 Report Share Posted June 21, 2023 Steel fox wedges? Ie very thin tool steel wedges. A staple in most fitters tool boxes back in my “yoof” Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 21, 2023 Report Share Posted June 21, 2023 yes they might do it - worth a try anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougieM Posted June 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2023 Well I got everything separated eventually on one shaft.I’m now pretty sure everything is 1976 original so might as well do the other side now. UC came apart pretty easily but the bearing on the short shaft was a pig, as predicted. Thin puller wouldn’t touch it nor would a vice and brute force. I opted not to try and prise it off and risk damaging the plate so I cut through the bearing outer ring and removed the bearing cage then VERY carefully cut diagonally through the inner ring. I cut in as deep as I dared without touching the shaft and cut to about 1/2 way across the ring. I then put a screwdriver into the slot and one light tap cracked the rest of the ring down to the collar and just prised easily off then. I’m hoping the new bearing is a tight but not interference fit. Now to tackle the other side! Thanks for all the tips as I’m pretty sure I’d have butchered the plate had I not posted here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougieM Posted July 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2023 Advice please. When I removed the first drive shaft from the diff I got a lot of oil coming out the diff. Did the other side and unsurprisingly got virtually nothing. However, having taken the filler plug out, oil started pouring out again which suggests PO overfilled diff. I’m sure I read that if the diff is overfilled too much pressure builds up and forces oil past the seals as the breather can’t handle it is that right? Should I just leave the oil to settle then refit the filler plug. Both drive shafts are back in with new seals and bearings, the rubber seal on the leaky side was pretty hard and had a lot more play compared to new one. Might get her back on the road today if All is well. Thanks…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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