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Handbrake Gaiter - Fit


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Chaps; Hello!

So, I bought what turned out to be a glossy finish handbrake gaiter that was fitted in 2021's renovation. Instantly hated it. Plus, the fella stapled & glued it badly.

So I bought one that had a matt finish, more akin to its original. Fitted it easily enough.

BUT . . . with handbrake pulled on, there is a fairly large gaping gap at the front base, where it should be affixed to the card handbrake surround.

The very original 1970 gaiter I ended up fixing a split exactly at the front (like a bicycle inner tube repair!), where it meets the h'brake card surround.

I have various methods in my head for affixing it again to the card (has this slumped??), but it is particularly the front of the gaiter skirt which seems to be well off the card surface (Pics).

All thoughts of solutions welcomed!! (car stripped out for soon-to-be chassis renewal).



Glossy Handbrake Gaiter.jpg

Matt Handbrake Gaiter.jpg

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Thanks Chaps! It's annoying, isn't it? The gap exists, moreso at the front, with handbrake on. Pete - were I to put that lip under the millboard, I'd be stretching it quite a bit in the h'brake 'on' position.

My original split at that point between the lip and first concertina in its front. However, I CAN see (because I have removed the original staples) that the lip was (I believe) on TOP of the millboard in mine and staples from the top.

I'm thinking a combination of some more modern plastic jointing fixings and a base of glue might hold it. - but I'll bet it splits again where the original did!!

Cheers Chaps!


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Seats are at least fifty year old vinyl, bought one of the Chinese cobbler sewing machines of eBay during COVID to replace the rotten stitching in the hood cover and got carried away edging the carpets with vinyl. As I didn't want the gear lever to feel left out also made a leather gear lever gaiter, leather was offcuts from an upholsterers.

Don't have a significant other to find me non Triumph jobs or expenses.




Gearlever Gaiter .jpg

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My Herald has the original gaiter and the cardboard surround stapled.I am a bit reluctant to disturb it, I think the cables are the originals and need adjustment at the handle end. Done the wheel end but not enough.

Edited by Steve P
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Quick supplementary - the 4 screws holding the millboard to the chassis . . . . presumably self-tappers . . . Or, will I lose some nut or other by undoing them? Obvs thinking to make the gaiter good on a removed millboard . .   Cheers,


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On 15/08/2023 at 19:29, Steve P said:

I don`t know what you mean Colin, I re-read it and it looks fine.How do I remove the Edited by Steve P bit?🙂


As usual the Devil in me couldn't resist it, at the risk of sounding like the Grammar police... I ain't got a gator fitted, but do have a leather gaiter... with snazzy red trim too.


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  • 3 weeks later...

Does the handbrake lever extend too much, thus pulling the gaiter too high? I've been going round the houses to make mine work, discovering the relay lever was seized and pointing forward of the perpendicular. No wonder it didn't have any holding power even with the lever high. I understand from my research that four clicks is the reasonable maximum when adjusted properly. I need to check the slide of the rear cylinders on the backplate and the lever travel when I get the new clevis pins in the relay lever...

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  • 8 months later...

Hi Guys,

I've not responded to how I 'fixed' things. One of the reasons 2012's restorer put a new (but sadly shiny finish) gaitor on was because the bellows part had split over the years (I would assume in years gone by, I let the pull-on movement get too great and had the lever was moving through too much of an arc.

I think all the above methods of accessory fittings are very good indeed. If only I could sew!

However, on recent refitting of the cabin innards, I decided to buy myself some think neoprene sheet. I 'stitched' the better dull black gaitor I'd acquired with some flat profile metal 'wire' to the neoprene sheet, (cut to precisely fit to the gaitor base) and the curved card base and then reaffixed into place. This gives the gaitor an extra 6mm chance of preventing its bellows splitting, if ever the h'brake adjustment gets too great, or cable, stretched. Using the shiny, surplus-to-requirements gaitor as a template, I then cut a section of carpet I'd bought from Newton to fit tight over the gaitor under the lower bellow and affixed with velcro onto the newly fitted carpet base.

It's just another way of doing it and hides the badly finished original restorer's carpet cuts around the h'brake and also the metal stitching.


Chers, All.



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