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Zero compression on cylinder 4


Kelv

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I think if it was mine, ,I would stick it on an engine stand and  remove the sump to inspect what`s in there, and then possibly check the shells and pistons/rings one at a time, putting a recon head on an old worn unknown bottom end from an engine that had low compression wouldn`t be for me. 

Of course if you buy another lump you won`t know what you`re getting unless it`s a recon.

S

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would have thought the easiest way would have been a good used lump £300> 500 tops , days labour tops . they are around, as soon as you start paying a garage for repairs its all down hill cost wise  ,  would just tell him to do the basics get it running see what you have run it to the ground while you look for a good used paul

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1 minute ago, DanMi said:

yes lump = entire engine

yes  the hole engine , i sold a good 1200 with gearbox last year £600 delivered on a pallet they are around , problem is if you cant do the work yourself it gets expensive have you not a mate with a bit of mechanical knowledge dont need much on a herald paul.

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2 hours ago, johny said:

Im afraid Ive had experience of workshops feeding you information so that you start down the road of repairs only to find at the end with the total cost you would have taken a different route - I think its an old trick....

Bernard Littlewood, who the OP has now taken his car to, is the TSSC TR4/5/6 reg sec (unless there’s another person of the same name in S Wales!) so I’d imagine we don’t have to worry about behaviours such as you mention.

But yeah, there are plenty of crappy garages out there :(

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So far I cannot fault Bernard. He's only charging me £15 p h. (my local mechanic charges £60 p h!!) He really knows what he's doing. He's been described as one of the best you can find at this stuff. 

 

I'm going to ask him to work on my Rover p6 next (when I've got money after this herald repair 🤑)

Edited by Kelv
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1 minute ago, Kelv said:

So far I cannot fault Bernard. He's only charging me £15 p h. He really knows what he's doing. He's been described as one of the best you can find at this stuff. 

hopefully he will get you going again then 

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Bernard's day 2 report....

"Hi Kelvin,

A brief appraisal of today’s work –

After leaving the weight of the car pulling the down on the suspended seized head stud overnight it had moved just enough for me to get a thin cutting disc between the gap to cut the stud. The bent and seized stud was heated with a blow torch and when cooled I was able to remove it from the block. The part of the stud left in the head was driven out with a parallel punch and mallet. There did not appear to be any damage to the piston or bore. I stripped the cylinder head of the valves and springs and using a valve seat cutter I re cut the valve seats, however, the exhaust valve seats were too recessed for a complete seat and after cleaning up all the valves and spending time lapping them in, the exhaust valves were far too pitted and need either renewing or re facing (SWP will do what is necessary). I then took the head complete with valves to SWP and asked them to renew the one damaged valve guide, fit hardened valve seats for lead free fuel, re face the valves if possible or supply new valves if necessary and not skim the head unless necessary and if so, to take the least amount off, I also asked them to supply a head gasket set. I asked if they had any used head studs and nuts (the new ones available are of a suspect grade steel) and the one lad said he would sort some out and drop them off to me tomorrow for a fraction cost of new ones."

1 STUD CUT TO RELEASE HEAD.jpg

2 STUD SEIZED IN HEAD.jpg

3 STRIPPING HEAD.jpg

4 RE CUTTING VALVE SEATS.jpg

5 EX SEATS TOO RECESSED.jpg

6 EX VALVES TOO PITTED TO LAP.jpg

7 BARE ENGINE.jpg

Edited by Kelv
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Having only the head done is a good option. If anything else goes wrong it can be whipped off and fitted to a replacement engine knowing that it is ready for any fuel. It will also be saleable if you find it surplus to requirements if you fit a complete different engine.

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45 minutes ago, johny said:

Good plan so make sure you get a bill detailing the exact work done and indicating the head serial number...

ooops of course theres no unique serial number on heads but possibly a stamped part identification number which would have to do....

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Bern is waiting for South Wales Pistons to do their bit and deliver new (old) studs. He's replaced my fuel tank (I had put a temporary plastic tank on because the original was leaking fuel all over the road), fuel line and hoses. He's noticed my starter motor is faulty too. 

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Update 2 from Bern...

"The replacement fuel tank was dropped off, so I removed drained the plastic tank, removed it and fitted the steel item. The fuel line that linked the tank to the main fuel line had to be replaced as did the old fuel hoses, they were badly perished and were replaced with R9 hose, new hose clips and an in line filter that is ethanol resistant, your old filter was badly degrading. You have a loose main starter motor connection which needs to be either repaired by a specialist or the starter needs replacing. The studs and nuts did not arrive, so hopefully they will tomorrow."

1 PERISHED FUEL HOSE.jpg

2 LEAKING FUEL HOSES.jpg

3 TANK FITTED.jpg

4 NEW R9 HOSE.jpg

5 NEW FUEL LINE & HOSE.jpg

6 DEGRADING FILTER.jpg

7 PERISHED HOSE.jpg

8 STARTER CONNECTION FAULTY.jpg

9 SLITS IN OLD HOSE.jpg

10 NEW FILTER & HOSES.jpg

11 NEW FILTER & HOSES FITTED.jpg

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