Track rod end removal tool recommendations

[1969Mk3Spitfire]

I need to remove the steering rack rod ends. Not a job I’ve done in the last 50 years. In the 70s, the taper was broken by a pair of well timed hammer blows.

Are the now widely available removal tools any good, worth buying? Any specific brand/type recommendations?

[dougbgt6]

Yes I've had the same ball joint splitter for 40 years! Probably used it 3 or 4 times, works fine but a bit bent now!

It's most like this one from Halfords, but I wouldn't pay £49.99 for it! MUCH cheaper on Fleabay £10 -£20.

Here's one from Fleabay £9.97 From memory I think there may be  an issue squeezing the tool into position so the shallower bottom lever may be better.

Doug

Edited April 1 by dougbgt6

[johny]

Ive just used that second type on a top ball joint and although a bit tight it did it fine so I think a track rod would be even easier...

[Nigel Clark]

I've used the first of the two splitters Doug shows for many years.... It hasn't failed yet!

Nigel

[Pete Lewis]

a good solid whack of the "hole "   has always worked for me never hit the taper pin  

a good swipe at the bit with the tapered hole in .

 

Pete

 

[Unkel Kunkel]

Depending on the joint, I use  one of these.

 

Or : 

this also works well, if there is enough room:

- Steady  a hefty lump hammer  firmly behind  the steering arm at A

and then with a slightly less bulky hammer,  give a well aimed hefty single wack directly in line  on the other  side   of the arm at B 

(  NB this not  hammering  the joint itself   - either lower part - or the taper - it just doesn’t seem to  work)   

The impact should make the taper  release.

 

 

Edited April 1 by Unkel Kunkel

[Peter Truman]

I have Unkel K's top and bottom ball joint removers, the top I've found damages the bottom flange of the ball joint where the rubber boot seals but that isn't a problem as I'm usually replacing the joint. The bottom remover I've had mixed results with sometimes works others not? The most effective way to remove I've found is the two hammer way as indicated!

Now for the punch line I usually smear a thin coat of grease on the taper, which is against all intent of locking the taper a dry joint would appear to be the design, I then use a normal nut to tighten the taper up locking it then as the joint doesn't turn then replace the standard nut with the provided locknut, it all stays tight until the next removal using two hammers? I'll be interested in the nay sayer arguments!

I have over the years here in Aus returned ball joints to the suppliers as I perceived the male & female tapers were at different angles  ie the joint appeared to rock before tightening down hard, good quality replacements from other suppliers fitted better. One thing I've noticed with recent replacements while the tapers were good the bolt thread and nut were metric threads, doesn't affect performance but those who insist on originality may object. My last ball joints purchased were really old hat having grease nipples fitted not even OE on my 68 Vitesse Mk2 ie greased for life! 

[PeteH]

I possess one as in Doug`s No-1 Pic;, The problem being I am in Yorkshire, my Ball joint splitter Is???. I suspect in someone`s storage locker on the Avon and Kennett!!. The "give it a two handed whack", works OK 9 time out of 10, especially with the assitance of a split fox wedge.

Pete

[1969Mk3Spitfire]

Many thanks to you all, I’ve enjoyed reading through the responses.

Confession time. The job is an old Ford. Last MoT it received an Advisory for the inner. It’s probably easier to remove the rack and get it refurbished than to change an inner insitu.

You guys give the best experiences based advice of any car owners forum.

Given that the ends will most probably become sacrificial, I’ll probably stick with the 2-hammer method but I may just look for UK’s taper chisel too, at the top of his picture, in case it refuses to budge.

Sincere thanks.

[Colin Lindsay]

1 hour ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:

Confession time. The job is an old Ford. 

As we say locally: fill us in! I always like to hear about different makes of old car, there's actually a thread for non-Triumph cars on the forum. It helps us realise we're not alone when it comes to car problems and they're not all just Triumphs.

[1969Mk3Spitfire]

2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

As we say locally: fill us in! I always like to hear about different makes of old car, there's actually a thread for non-Triumph cars on the forum. It helps us realise we're not alone when it comes to car problems and they're not all just Triumphs.

[PeteH]

4 hours ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:

RS 1600?. Had one as a "company car" in the late 80`s. My bog standard 1300 was in for a warranty paint job, and it was the only thing the Guildford Ford agents could offer me. 2 weeks of "high speed posing" and then back to reality👍😭

Pete

[1969Mk3Spitfire]

It’s an RS Turbo Series 2 @PeteH

What’s a “split fox wedge”?

[PeteH]

2 hours ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:

What’s a “split fox wedge”?

Imagine a very thin steel wedge, that`s been cut to make a divided wedge that can fit either side of a bolt. I had (still have) a selection of such from my day`s as a factory millwiright. Often the only means of separating reluctant machine parts, or raising a mounting to insert shimming to get machine bed`s absolutely level (chocking) when setting up production lines. We used the same/similar methods to get shipboard machinery to line up too.

Pete