Colin Lindsay Posted April 25 Report Share Posted April 25 Hi all - my 1200 estate window rubbers have turned out to be excellent quality, but requiring cut to size and glued together. The smaller straight section goes against the B-post and the long piece then goes right round the glass, and where the two join top and bottom they'll require glued together at right angles. Any thoughts on a good rubber / seal glue? I'm hoping that once in place they'll not move so little to no stress on the joint but it needs to be waterproof plus won't dry out or attack the rubber. Any good ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted April 25 Report Share Posted April 25 Maybe worth contacting Baines for advice?. They have been helpful in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted April 25 Report Share Posted April 25 Puncture mending kit from local bike shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 25 Author Report Share Posted April 25 2 hours ago, JohnD said: Puncture mending kit from local bike shop? I had thought of that, given that I've recently used some on the BMW. Do you think it would be tough enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted April 25 Report Share Posted April 25 Superglue? Do you have some extra to experiment with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted April 26 Report Share Posted April 26 Also used superglue to successfully butt join rubber sections eg Sprint front windscreen seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 26 Author Report Share Posted April 26 8 hours ago, ahebron said: Superglue? Do you have some extra to experiment with? Should have; the short strips alone are about four inches too long. I know as usual I'm being overcautious but it's the visuals as well as the strength... maybe superglue with a smear of rubber sealer to look 'factory'...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted April 26 Report Share Posted April 26 (edited) 13 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: I had thought of that, given that I've recently used some on the BMW. Do you think it would be tough enough? 80psi in an inner tube tough enough? Cured superglue is rigid, you want flexibility. Edited April 26 by JohnD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 26 Report Share Posted April 26 and of the day all sealing was often the simple /cheap black bostik gutter type sealant . easy to clean with white spirit , wont act as a glue but was used to seal all rubbers of the day stays supple and does eventually glue everything . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted April 26 Report Share Posted April 26 Colin where did you get the seals from, I need to replace them on the estate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 26 Author Report Share Posted April 26 2 hours ago, iana said: Colin where did you get the seals from, I need to replace them on the estate Long long ago from Canleys, but I see they're NLA now. Rimmers still list them, for some reason I looked at them earlier in the week and I thought they were very expensive but I'm happy I read that wrong, they're just over £70 for the pair. Same as mine, they require gluing so I reckon I'll go with John's suggestion of cycle glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 26 Author Report Share Posted April 26 Just had a trial fitting and the rubbers are still supple and as new, going round the corners is a bit tricky as they're not moulded, but the biggest problem is going to be the right-angled corners where the upright section meets. It's not as simple as just cutting edge to edge due to the shape required to fit both glass and bodywork, and any gap will be quite noticeable. Any ideas before I start trimming? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted April 26 Report Share Posted April 26 33 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: Just had a trial fitting and the rubbers are still supple and as new, going round the corners is a bit tricky as they're not moulded, but the biggest problem is going to be the right-angled corners where the upright section meets. It's not as simple as just cutting edge to edge due to the shape required to fit both glass and bodywork, and any gap will be quite noticeable. Any ideas before I start trimming? 45 degree cuts, should butt up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted April 26 Report Share Posted April 26 I would consider leaving the final joining until fitted as the fitting process may well change the needed angles on different sections of the moulding. I would just glue the parts that fit on the glass and leave those to the body as long as possible until fitted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklewis Posted April 26 Report Share Posted April 26 colin , i use loctite 480 black ruberised superglue on window seals on construction equipment , deep pockets at around 40 for a 20ml bottle mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 27 Author Report Share Posted April 27 45 degree would make most sense, but delicate... I could do it and to be honest that's my preferred route but rubber isn't as forgiving as wood or metal so could flex and destroy the angle. Loads of care, sweating and running away / coming back when fortified required. Mick's Loctite might do if it will fill in and cover up any hoo-has with tears or ragged cuts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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