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Clutch change gt6 mk3.


Dave pb
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Hi

 

I've suspected a worn clutch for a while. lots of revving and then biting,  and only engaging right at the top of the pedal travel.

Today I moved it from standstill in 4th,  which I'm told is a sure sign of a worn clutch.

 

Only way is out through the cabin, right?

 

Thanks
Dave

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Or take the engine and box out as a complete unit.

For most gearbox out from inside is the easiest.Life is simpler if it is non-od as rather lighter, but I have done a few by myself, with he aid of a couple of long levers, and not as bad as it sounds.

 

Make sure you get a quality clutch kit.....not sure what is best these days.

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Even if you take the engine out you will still have to get the gearbox cover off to disconnect the prop, so you might as well do it all from the inside.

 

Once it's done don't forget to top up the gearbox oil and think about cutting an access hole in the cover for future top ups. Also take opportunity to replace the slave cylinder rubbers, as this can only be done with the cover off. And, think about sound deadening and heat prevention in the cover and heat sealant when re-installig it.

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Seems that  from the inside would be best then.  Definitely looking at heat prevention and thanks for the tip about the slave cylinder. Got new carpets to fit so I reckon I'll take the whole inside out and go from there.

 

Thanks

Dave

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Support the back of the sump area , seats out and steering wheel off all helps access

Getting the clutch hsg out from unnder the baulkhead can need a bit of fiddle,

 

tip on refit I use a long wooden leaver to lift agaist the chassis which lets you lift and wiggle the unit back in

have two long studs to fit in the back of the block top holes to help aligning,

 

and tip ...use any odd bit of wood or whatever to use to judge the gap to the back plate just to help visualise the gbox is || to the engine so you lift lower the engine to pop it on

its easy to get |\ and then you struggle to engage the flywheel spigot

 

do not let the box hang on the clutch disc

 

Do you have a disc aligning tool, or make one from tube and tape ??

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Seats out, steering wheel off makes it more accessible but, I've never done that and I managed the clutch out OK. With the seats in you've got something to  lean on and both arms are free. I do it from the passenger side (is it because I is left handed? :lol:)  I put an old duvet across the seats.

 

Seats out can be a troublesome job, especially if it's never been done before. When I refurbished my seats there was much swearing, cursing and skinning of knuckles to get them out. Took hours!

 

Also apart from changing the clutch I've had the "rusted on" clutch syndrome a few times and never needed an official alignment tool, just a bit of pipe as Pete says, and a big Philips screw driver rotated at an angle..

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I've got an alignment tool from when I did a Herald 13/60 a few years ago. Not sure if it is suitable for a Gt6 though.   I'll dig it out and see what it says. 

 

Its going to be a little while this job,  currently renovating a house for the in-laws,  and then a Herald to get ready for a wedding.  looks like a couple of months before the GT6 gets another look-at. It gives me time to gather info and do some thinking/planning/purchasing. 

 

Any tips on the "best" clutch to buy?

 

Dave

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A TRR member has posted about his DiY gearbox removal crane, which has caused a lot of interest, as the TR6 gearbox is even bigger and heavier than the GT6 'box.

The thread is here: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/59031-gearbox-inout-easily/?hl=gearbox   Hope you can read it.

 

I always take out the gearbox as a unit with the engine.   With a "Load Leveller" and enough lift height, this can be done without removing the bonnet.

Here's the sequence, below, on my VItesse:

 

post-139-0-36828700-1497603889_thumb.jpg

 

 

John

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Remember if taking the gearbox out through the car to a) protect your floors and B) protect your fingers! It's a lot of weight to squash fingers against thin metal especially the lip of the prop tunnel. 

I've done both methods - through the car, or complete engine out - and reckon that while taking the entire thing out on a hoist is a much bigger operation it's less fiddly. You can give everything a good clean and service rather than performing gymnastics inside the car trying to reach all of the components and securing bolts. Everything is right in front of you, much easier to align the clutch, paint or degrease components, and you can replace all gaskets and seals at the same time, which will then be good for many years to come. It seems like more of a job but it's actually a lot easier if you've the right tools ie a good hoist or crane.

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Must say the last clutch I did was a herald one (couple of months ago) and it was a doddle. No H frame, bit more space, no overdrive. We also did the diff nose seal, all very comfortably done by mid afternoon including a few extra side jobs, bacon sandwiches and many of cups of tea. A Gt6 clutch should be done in a day....

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and a VERY nice garage! :lol:

 

The builder did ask why I required a metal beam that wasn't structural.

So did Buildings Control.

I had to think very carefully before telling them that it was for a chain hoist and not for any future alteration or upgrade, just in case they put more rules and regulations in my way.

So now I have a good solid beam for hanging engines on, and two areas of floor where the concrete is over 12 inches thick in case I ever get to afford a 2-post lift.

Future planning!!

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Ahem!  In my new garage, the builder said, did I want an RSJ?   We didn't trouble the Council.

 

In the old garage, the roof is supported on double, 12x4" pitch pine rafters.   They built properly in those days (1900s)

But the guy who built this house built it for his fmaily to live in!

Then died!   Sad story.

John

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Once changed clutch in a Herald by the gearbox out method, never again. On my Vitesse always removed engine and gearbox as a unit, but have a big I beam across garage with a rolling trolley for the chain hoist, seem to remember £60.00 for the 5 metre length. The load leveller i welded a big nut to the end of the screw thread and use a battery drill to adjust angle.

 

Regards

 

Paul

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John does it with bonnet on, have a kook bCk at his pictures

 

it doenst take much to remove the bonnet , then access is very easy

all down to preference and the need of a adjustable balance bar

 

if not and on on a fixed beam then bonnet off and push car backwards as you extract it frontways

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On my Vitesse I leave the bonnet on, gearbox has overdrive so a bit longer but no problem, have also left manifolds on. You will need a way of altering the angle of the engine gearbox unit as in John's pictures, think the unit is over 400 pounds.

 

Regards

 

Paul

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