Badwolf Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 As I remember it, one of the problems with the plumbing was that the pre-bent pipework supplied (as per engine and chassis numbers given to the supplier) never really appeared to marry up to the to the bends in the engine bay. Pardon my ignorance on this, but which way does the water actually flow... From left to right or right to left through the inlet manifold (pipe goes to thermostat housing) and left to right or right to left through the pipe running under the inlet manifold (to the water pump) I can plumb an entire house for water and central heating but not a car which has one connector at each end of the inlet manifold, a t-piece at the end of a pipe running under the inlet manifold in the engine bay, plus an inlet and outlet to the heater. Sad isn't it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 On closer inspection it looks like I have 7 pipe ends and only 6 connector points, hence the fabricated t-pieces on both old and new photos in various places. The pre-bent pipes look they will only fit in certain places so I will, with your help, go back to start and if one of you kind gents can help someone who is looking at an obvious answer... but can't see it, I will sort out what ever pipes fit and fabricate those that won't. So, in the photo I have numbered the 6 connection points, if one (or all of you) can give me a simply table (eg, 6 goes to 1, 4 goes to 2 etc) I can strip out the lot and re-plumb it all. Sorry to be so thick... I blame it on the heat and lack of car plumbing expertise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 the flow is from the head port you dont have to the heater valve and from the thermo hsg through the manifold and both manifold and heater then return via the under exh tube to the pump hsg. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 2 hours ago, Badwolf said: On closer inspection it looks like I have 7 pipe ends and only 6 connector points, hence the fabricated t-pieces on both old and new photos in various places. Yes, like I said in my last reply. This is because you have a mish-mash of bits - Herald engine, Spitfire return pipe, pre-Mk4 manifold. 2 hours ago, Badwolf said: The pre-bent pipes look they will only fit in certain places The pre-bent pipes are designed to fit a standard set of bits, which is not what you have. 2 hours ago, Badwolf said: So, in the photo I have numbered the 6 connection points, if one (or all of you) can give me a simply table (eg, 6 goes to 1, 4 goes to 2 etc) I can strip out the lot and re-plumb it all. As I said before, you have two options here. In both cases, pipe 4 is fine as it is. Leave it alone. Option 1 - with bypass as per late Spitfire Turn the T-piece round so that the branch currently connected to pipe 5 is connected to pipe 3 instead Connect pipe 2 to the lower end of the T-piece Connect pipe 5 to the upper end of the T-piece Connect pipe 1 to pipe 6 Option 2 - without bypass as per Herald Remove the T-piece entirely Connect pipe 3 to pipe 5 Connect pipe 1 to pipe 6 Fit a blanking plug to pipe 2 Option 1 probably fits the pre-formed hoses you have better. In both cases it's OK to swap pipes 5 and 6, giving: Option 3 - as option 1 but reversed flow in heater Turn T-piece round to connect middle to pipe 3 Connect the long double-bend hose from pipe 5 to pipe 1 Connect the medium hose from pipe 6 to the upper end of the T-piece Connect a short angled hose from pipe 2 to the lower end of the T-piece Option 4 - as option 2 but reversed flow in heater Remove the T-piece Connect the long double-bend hose from pipe 5 to pipe 1 Connect the medium hose from pipe 6 to pipe 3 Blank off pipe 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 5 minutes ago, NonMember said: Yes, like I said in my last reply. This is because you have a mish-mash of bits - Herald engine, Spitfire return pipe, pre-Mk4 manifold. The pre-bent pipes are designed to fit a standard set of bits, which is not what you have. As I said before, you have two options here. In both cases, pipe 4 is fine as it is. Leave it alone. Option 1 - with bypass as per late Spitfire Turn the T-piece round so that the branch currently connected to pipe 5 is connected to pipe 3 instead Connect pipe 2 to the lower end of the T-piece Connect pipe 5 to the upper end of the T-piece Connect pipe 1 to pipe 6 Option 2 - without bypass as per Herald Remove the T-piece entirely Connect pipe 3 to pipe 5 Connect pipe 1 to pipe 6 Fit a blanking plug to pipe 2 Option 1 probably fits the pre-formed hoses you have better. In both cases it's OK to swap pipes 5 and 6, giving: Option 3 - as option 1 but reversed flow in heater Turn T-piece round to connect middle to pipe 3 Connect the long double-bend hose from pipe 5 to pipe 1 Connect the medium hose from pipe 6 to the upper end of the T-piece Connect a short angled hose from pipe 2 to the lower end of the T-piece Option 4 - as option 2 but reversed flow in heater Remove the T-piece Connect the long double-bend hose from pipe 5 to pipe 1 Connect the medium hose from pipe 6 to pipe 3 Blank off pipe 2 You're not a Committee, are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 2 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: You're not a Committee, are you? Yes, I are. Errr.... My initial response, above, was to give my option 1 as the best fix. Somebody (possibly called Colin) then replied saying the T-piece needed to be removed, so I gave option 2 as the way to deal with the odd number of pipes that results in. In the process of trying to re-write those two options more clearly for BW, I realised that his labelling of the heater matrix pipes, giving the current direction of flow, doesn't match the plumbing on my Spitfire, so I offered the other two variants also. BW, If you don't like all the choice, option 3 is the one to go for. The Dolomite 1500 inlet manifold has that T-piece shape incorporated into the pipe, for an engine without the head tapping, like you have. It puts the heater valve on the outlet, not the inlet, of the heater but that doesn't cause a problem. The hoses reach slightly more easily. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 NonMember/Colin. Thank you both for your help. It gives me a better idea of the best things to do. I have stared and stared at this, compared it with photos taken of other cars, in fact the photo below does actually appear to be connected like mine is now. Whether it works or not is anyone's guess. Every car I have seen appears to be different even Uncle Pete suggested that I connect a pipe and then goes on to say.."which you don't have". I will work through the alternatives and report back. It gives me a lot to go on and, believe me, I am very grateful for all the options. I have just spent an entertaining hour trying to repair the remote door linkage (see previous comments). Still not managed it and feel like I've been trying to slit my wrist!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 Ok. Thanks again to all. I have gone with option3 using the pipework I had. Not tested it yet but if there are no problems and the heater works, I will get some pipes more akin to some of the rather sharp angles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 1 hour ago, Badwolf said: in fact the photo below does actually appear to be connected like mine is now. I think, if you look closely, that's plumbed according to my option 1, although the return pipe behind the manifold looks to be a different shape to yours (lower down). Note also the integral T-piece on the manifold that I mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 Ah. Know I know what I'm looking at it fails into place. The return pipe does look to be at 45 degrees. Mine is a right angle, somewhat rusty and won't come loose from the fitting. I was going to replace it but thought discretion on this one might be more prudent. I will try to take the car out for a spin tomorrow and keep a sharp eye on the temperature gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 the pipe under the manifold is often full of crudd especially where the hoes connect as is the heater valve Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 Just now, Pete Lewis said: especially where the hoes connect Miami Vice? db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 New item for the honoured sages on the forum and I know what Doug will say before I even post this. "Buy the petrol,run the car, enjoy it and don't mess with things" - or words to that effect. I was rummaging around on fleabay looking at spitfire stuff and found these https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/NO-LEADED-PETROL-NO-ADDITIVE-REQD-SPITFIRE-FUEL-CAT-ALYST-LASTS-10-YEARS-WORKS-/351602933867?nav=SEARCH Snakeoil salesman...probably, but is there any science behind the claims. Did a search on the forum but couldn't find anything. Discuss!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 14 minutes ago, Badwolf said: . "Buy the petrol,run the car, enjoy it and don't mess with things" Although I agree with the sentiment I can't claim originality. Sounds like a Lewisism to me. A friend up the road has one of these things in each of his cars and says they really work. He is however an MGB owner and obviously has suspect judgement. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 Found it by accident and wondered if anyone had come across them before and if there was any real 'science' behind them and if so, how they worked.., chemical reaction, molecule transfer, simply disolve to make the petrol go whiz bang better. Industry experts of long standing... over to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 BW you're just trying to stir things up! There was a long and acrimonious argument on Club Triumph site a couple of years about this, went on for weeks. I don't believe it, but I'm sure JohnD can give us a full and detailed explaination. db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 Ah Ok. Not stirring things up, didn't know anything about it, especially on a forum I'm not on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 It will work as well as a tigers tail tied on the filler neck There are , were loads of crap alledged addative devices around, to stick in the tank or add to the fuel line Chemically they cannot do anything made to be bought as a must have... complete tosh Pete Yes buy decent 97ron fuel run car enjoy it dont mess with it , dont know where that comes from You know its about time we started to sell lead memory as all the castings have some , it will last for years Unless you cut the seats then is the time to add exh seats How about The Lewis Lead Elixer Engine Revitaliser in an empty bottle !!!! Could we make a fortune????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 As the "honoured sages" have said, that so-called "catalyst" is complete snake oil. It's a bit of scrap cable wrap worth 2p and of absolutely no use whatsoever. As one true expert chemist who actually analysed many such devices back in the day summarised his findings, "you'd be better off wrapping a dead chicken round the fuel line". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 Thank you gents. Just what I expected but really curious. If it hadn't been listed with Spitfire in the header, I wouldn't have found it. I must try to find the post that Doug referred to. Sounds an interesting 'discussion'! NonMember- I have just returned from a run out in the blazing sun with the heater on full blasting hot air out. Well done and thanks for sorting out the plumbing for me. I will now sort out some slightly less kinked pipes for a more permanent job. The down side is that Spitty is now only running on three cylinders. No idea why, she was running perfectly the other week. So plugs out, leads swapped, try the old disy cap... the usual things.... (sigh!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 On 8/13/2017 at 6:52 PM, Pete Lewis said: so save your money to buy more fuel and use the car with a smile pete Doug - You were right about the mis-quote, it was a Lewisism Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 Use the car with a simile... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 So... plugs out etc. etc.and they are as sooty as hell, again. Checked the choke and yes, the linkage is jamming on, even when the knob is pushed in. Will try some lube spray, clean the plugs and try again, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 Ok. So I think the problem is solved. A piece of black insulation tape was missing. What? you say. How does a piece of black tape cause the choke to stick? If you look at the old picture of the engine at the bottom of the previous page, you will see the choke cable taped to the neck of the back carb. The tape had gone and the interior of the choke cable, instead of pushing the linkage back, was just lifting the outer sheath of the cable. o glad that I didn't start to twiddle with the mixture before I spotted it. Ok, now back to the remote door linkage which is proving to be a nightmare... yet again, despite trying the ideas from Pete, Doug etc this is proving to be a bigger pain than ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 its worth one day pull the choke inner right out and grease it up a bit the door remotes is still sounding like cable ties gaffer tape or garden wire as is said designed by someone with a sadistic streak and shares in stick plasters Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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