Badwolf Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 It was a full bare metal for the whole car. About two years later the paint started to blister on the bonnet, I assume at a hot spot above the engine. It went downhill from there. Now I am wanting a rolling respray but am trying to find from forum members what works and what doesn't. Like your comment about the compatibility of paint. I assumed when it was dry, next coat of whatever (except paint stripper or mixing cellulose and acrylic . I have actually been looking at the Frost range of paint for the top coat something like this red.. https://www.frost.co.uk/por-topcoat-red.html .. so I would be better using their range of rust treatment. I would like the use this one because of the inherent problem of the paint cracking (especially around the head-light pods) due to the flexing of the bonnet, and the POR15 chassis paint gets wonderful results but I have no idea about their top coats and other 'layering' (undercoat, primer etc) products. I am quite prepared to wait to start the job while I do the research. Anyone else out there with any ideas please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 I’d be inclined to take it back to bare metal, remove as much of the rust as possible via strip disc or wire wheel, then treat the rust with a passivator like Kurust as this then stops any new rust forming. I’ve been using FE 123 rust converter from these Rustbusters, see link below. http://www.rust.co.uk/fe-123-rust-converter/c28125/ Next step, which I haven’t go to yet, is to apply several coats of epoxy primer, which appears to be the modern alternative to etch primer. http://www.rust.co.uk/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/c28117/ Unlike etch primer, epoxy mastic is not porous, and therefore can be left for prolonged periods without the risk of rust breaking out under the primer. My 2 cents. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Thanks Karl. I will have a good look through those links. Does anyone else have a favourite mix of rust converters, undercoats, paints etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 For underbody applications I use BIlt Hamber Hydrate 80 then POR15 from Frosts then if further protection is necessary Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 or Dynax UB Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 Thank Paul. Any advice for primer, top coats etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 Has anyone else used the epoxy primer Karl mentioned. I have not used it before. Any preferred suppliers, other than the club shop, would also be gratefully received. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 First job is to strip back the old paint, which as you can see from the photos is quite thick in places, rub down.. and prime as I do each area. I have some 120 grade flap wheels for my angle grinders. Would I be better with strip disks? Is there much difference and which does the least amount of damage to the metalwork? Still not decided which primer/paint to go for. I think I'm scared of making the decision and finding out it's the wrong one!! Thinking of calling into Frost's as they are only about 15 miles away from me and having a look at their paint system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 5, 2018 Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 I think the Scothbrite strip discs give a better paint-removal-to-panel-damage ratio than flap wheels but it's probably not a huge difference. The main reason I recommend them is that they take longer to clog up and become useless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted July 5, 2018 Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 I wouldn’t use the flap disc for paint removal as it’s too aggressive and will remove metal as well as paint, while a strip disc will just remove paint. Ask me how I know. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 Thanks Gents. I thought that might be the case. I used one of the 120 flap wheels to smooth the edge of some metal roof sheets and was somewhat surprised at just how aggresive it was. Ebay, here we go again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 What is the difference in the colour coding. Black, purple etc. The ones I have come across up the now have been 46 grit, which looks more aggresive than the 120 grit flapwheels I have. Never used these before so not sure what grade, material or quantity to get. Please educate me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 5, 2018 Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 The black ones are aggressive - actually good for removing rust - but won't grind away the good metal as readily as a coarse grit flapwheel. The brown ones are probably the ones you want for paint removal on a body panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 I am having trouble finding brown ones, just black or purple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Went out last night, only a 15 mile run. No problems until parking up when the oil pressure light came on again, gauge reading about 5/10psi at idle. Would this be normal or should I worry? It was, as you would expect at the moment, very hot, but the temp gauge was showing normal. could be that it is the quality of the oil, thinning too much at running temp. Currently got some cheap 20/50 in from Wilkinsons (I know!!!) with an additive (STP I think) to boost the zinc content. Going to dump it shortly in favour of 'Classic Oil' 20/50. Any thoughts, anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 I’ve always used these guys since seeing them at Stoneliegh a couple of years back. https://www.a1abrasives.co.uk/cat1016_scotch_and_finish.html?sid=db47307c73c19c8bf97fa5cc40ec0e20 They do an excellent range of abrasives. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Thanks again Karl. Had already ordered a couple of cheap purple ones off fleabay to practice with. I think I will start on the hardtop, an try a combination of upol acid 8, high build primer and top coat from rattle cans to see if there is any reaction. Then progress onto the bonnet using the apollo spraymate. I wanted to top coat with red por15 but reading various reports it looks like its not uv stable so back to the drawing board. At least all my panel work has been done. I don't think I would want to embark on a mission like yours these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 i used a cheap think it was G Force from local factors that lost umph when pressed and hot where as pistoneze didnt drop a lb. so yes economy oils are best avoided unless you only go to the shops Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Karl - Following your recomendation, I have had a better look at the range of products from Rustbusters. There are an unbelieveable numbers of products on the market, and having gone through the whole bare shell respray once, I want to make sure that this time its done right. It looks like their Fe123 rust converter, and epoxy mastic 421 might now be the way to go, with a standard cellulose top coat. Would I need anything else apart from thinners? The epoxy mastic looks like a similar product to POR15 but in 2 pack. This could solve the problem of the paint cracking due to the Spitfire bonnet flexing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 I was just going to use the Fe123 to neutralise any remaining rust, then give the surface a good roughing up with an 80 grit flap wheel or sanding pad, then on with the epoxy mastic primer. The keying of the surface is important as all the epoxy mastics are designed to be used over a surface that has been media blasted or needle gunned. I’ve read of instances where the surface had been wire brushed, which has a tendency to polish the surface rather than abrade it, and the primer has peeled off in sheets, so surface prep is everything. To be honest I wasn’t even planning on using top coat on the underside of the car, just using one of their greys that was half decent match to my Dolphin Grey on the chassis and under body. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Sounds goods. I have been following your thread with interest. I have never done this myself. Watched it being done first time around 30+ years ago. This is for bonnet, and the rest of the body, so I need to know the right way to do it. Plus I will have to repair any filler that I damage in the stripping. I may send rust.co an email with pictures and ask them the exact stuff I need to buy and what to do. I see that they recommend cleaning the bare metal with their products in a similar way to using por15. Not worried about buying the products but want it to be right! If any info that I get will help you, then, of course, I will post it. These doesn't appear to be a great number of 'home body shops' on the forum at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 I found this guy over on Retrorides. http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/204767/jowett-jupiter-accident-repair He is a professional restorer specialising in Jowett, but the techniques apply to any car. He has done a few articles in Practical Classics as well, and really knows his stuff. Have a look through his threads as they an education in themselves in sharp contrast to some of the other threads on there. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 Brilliant. I am going to put together a message to Rustbuster regarding how I intend to go about things. If there is anything that you want me to add, please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 Just read the 'Jowett Jupiter' thread - thanks Karl. Thinking of replacing the bodged headlight mounting panels (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-818872P) before I start. Would it be possible to 'chemical weld' and pop rivet these in place (as per the references in the Jowett thread) as I have no welding equipment and no welding experience. While I am doing the job I may as well do it properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 Can anyone give me an idea of the surface area including hardtop of a MkIV Spitfire to gauge how much paint I need. I now I can get a rough idea with a tape measure but if anyone knows it would be useful please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 Glad you enjoyed the Jupiter article, below is the thread that first brought his work to my attention. http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/196036/jowett-bradford-utility-power-retro With regard the attachment of the light mounts, they probably add some strength to the forward section of the bonnet, and therefore would need to be spot welded in. A mobile welder should be able to do this for not a lot. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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