Badwolf Posted July 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Ok. I just wondered if you, or anyone else had experience of when to, and when not to use this type of bonding produce. To 'chemically bond' panels as shown in the Jowett thread, even to the point of bonding the door skins and pop rivetting them would be brilliant in non structural areas. However the comments in the thread give the belief that many moderns are, at least partially, glued together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 I think many moderns are glued and riveted, particularly those made of alloy, however not sure how the MOT man would view bonding or riveting these panels. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 MOT !!!??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 I know, but whether or not you get the car MOT’d you are going to want to retain the strength in the front of the bonnet, particularly given the propensity for the bonnets on these things to flex. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 True... I jest! I have posted an enquiry about the system on the Jowett page. It will be interesting to see the reply. His method of fitting a door to an undersized gap is particularly interesting. Can't thank you enough for the links. By the way, I spent an hour yesterday talking to one of the tech team at Frosts about the POR15 rust preventative system in conjuction with their top coat paint. It look ideal for what I want to do, with the limited resources that I have for body work and painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 For those of you not on the Rimmers mailing list, they have a 15% off day today (sitewide) 17/07/18. If you are needing spares, might be worth a look. You might only get the discount using this link.. https://rimmerbros.com/content--name-Spares-Day?src=PRIME&utm_source=Newsletter&utm_medium=Email&utm_content=Inhouse&utm_campaign=180710_SWW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted July 17, 2018 Report Share Posted July 17, 2018 10 hours ago, Badwolf said: For those of you not on the Rimmers mailing list, they have a 15% off day today (sitewide) 17/07/18. If you are needing spares, might be worth a look. You might only get the discount using this link.. https://rimmerbros.com/content--name-Spares-Day?src=PRIME&utm_source=Newsletter&utm_medium=Email&utm_content=Inhouse&utm_campaign=180710_SWW I saw that this morning and cursed - typical, 5 days after spending £70 with them! Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 Currently see-sawing between three projects on the Spit. The drive shafts which clunk and the hard-top/bonnet which need a repaint. Yesterday I was ordering bits and pieces on Rimmer's discount day and realised that while I was doing the drive shafts, I should re-rubber the shocks and spring eyes. I read on the forum that polybush fittings were preferred by many of you but can't find the thread. Can anyone offer advice about fitting these before I start stripping down. Don't want to find a problem at the last minute that I could have planned for in advance (say for example, having to press out the old rubbers). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted July 18, 2018 Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 Don't bother with the spring eye bushes - I got a full-car Polybush kit from the club the first time I restored my car and none of the original spring, the replacement spring, or the replacement replacement spring that have been in there over the years have show any inclination to let the rubber bush out, let alone a Polybush in. Shock rubbers are easy to replace - just probably worth ordering new nylocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 18, 2018 Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 I burned my old wishbone bushes out... probably not environmentally-friendly, but it worked... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted July 19, 2018 Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 My experience of wishbone bushes is they've always popped out fine using a good vice and a pair of sockets - probably due to the years of oil soaking that necessitated their replacement. The only one I can think of that didn't want to play ball was in the trailing arm on my 2000 but hitting the bush crush tube with a big drill took care of them, either by ripping the tube away from the rubber (followed by pushing it out then hacking the rubber out) or by breaking the seal between wishbone and bush and getting the whole bush spinning (at which point it popped out with the two sockets). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted July 19, 2018 Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 I replaced all of the rubber bushes on the Herald’s front suspension with poly bushes when I rebuilt it last year. Overall they came out pretty easily, either with the method the Mjit suggests using a couple of sockets and a vice, or get a length of studding with some large washers, which you can then use to similar effect. Not required if you have a vice with a large enough throat, but mine was too small. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 Thanks chaps. All much appreciated. I was thinking of trying to press them out in the vice with two sockets but thought I would check if anyone had a better way. I don't like to start and then find out that I am short of tools, spares etc. Hence all the questions regarding the stripping of the paintwork and what to treat the rusty parts with , primer u/coat etc. For those of you who have done work recently, you know what is good on the market and what is useless. Afraid my knowledge is 30 years out of date. Modern products appear to be a vast improvement on the Kurust and David's Isopon of the day, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 19, 2018 Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 If your vice isn't big enough for the two sockets, you can feed a length of studding through the middle and tighten some nuts onto it. A bit laborious but it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 Thanks N/M. I am blessed with 4 record vices around a 6 foot square bench. It was given to me as it was being chucked from a local school. The bench is made of beech. The vices are actually for woodwork but I have added a small mechanics vice as well. Very handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 I noticed 'Swarfega' mentioned in the thread for cleaning windscreen rubbers. I have always found it difficult, with oily paws, to open the tub, and always wasted too much of it. So being mean, I got an empty tesco/lidl/aldi handwash container - the type with the press-pump top. Mixed the swarfega with water until it was about the consistancy of decent custard (thread drift starts here!!), put it in the pump dispenser through a funnel and hey presto.... oily paws, two squirts, work in, rinse off, one squirt of normal hand wash, rinse off.... lunch...!! Yes I should wear gloves but...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted July 19, 2018 Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 I’ve used this type of kit to get bushes out. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123205974321 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted July 19, 2018 Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 All the bushes I got came with a sachet of lubricant to help fit them. You don’t need much, so a sachet goes a long way. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 19, 2018 Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 Im a studs socket and washer fan even for the trailing arms on the 2000 poly rebushed on car , with sockets from 3mm to 86mm theres not much that wont fit and lengths of studding its a cheap and effective drag kit ( no not that drag kit) Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted July 19, 2018 Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 Replaced all the bushes I could with Superflex a couple of years ago on my Mk1 Vitesse including the rear spring eye bush. There have been posts with people having trouble fitting them because they have not removed the outer steel tube of the old bush from the spring eye. Talking to the supplier they told me they use different rating of hardness depending where the bush will be used. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 19, 2018 Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 so did triumph the hardness will be on the long lost drawings many are now just round and black.. whats chinese or indian for .near enough ...!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2018 Got my order from Rimmers yesterday. It had an interesting label stuck on the outside which I read after the courier had chucked it at me asked for a signature and legged it at speed (as they do). I'm not sure how close Rimmers are to breaking the law, if not actually breaking it, coming very close to it. The label states.. "Important read this label before you sign" - oh yes, tell that to a busy courier on a timed schedule "Fragile do not use a knife" - 10 yards of packing tape and staples every 2 inches - what should I use, screwdriver, scissors...! "Claims for damaged parts cannot be made if you have signed the delivery note received in good condition" - so I haven't opened the box, cannot see through the box, how do I know that what is inside isn't bent, broken, dented or damaged in some other way, even though the box looks fine? Is the courier going to wait while I find something which is not a knife, fight my way carefully into the packageing, check the contents against the delivery note and also for damage espacially as some are individually wrapped a plastic bag, in a box, in another plastic bag then in bubble wrap I don't sign delivery notes received in good condition, l always sign as 'not checked', but really, if there is a way to sign away your rights, someone will try it on. I expect better from Rimmers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted July 21, 2018 Report Share Posted July 21, 2018 1 hour ago, Badwolf said: Got my order from Rimmers yesterday. It had an interesting label stuck on the outside which I read after the courier had chucked it at me asked for a signature and legged it at speed (as they do). I'm not sure how close Rimmers are to breaking the law, if not actually breaking it, coming very close to it. The label states.. "Important read this label before you sign" - oh yes, tell that to a busy courier on a timed schedule "Fragile do not use a knife" - 10 yards of packing tape and staples every 2 inches - what should I use, screwdriver, scissors...! "Claims for damaged parts cannot be made if you have signed the delivery note received in good condition" - so I haven't opened the box, cannot see through the box, how do I know that what is inside isn't bent, broken, dented or damaged in some other way, even though the box looks fine? Is the courier going to wait while I find something which is not a knife, fight my way carefully into the packageing, check the contents against the delivery note and also for damage espacially as some are individually wrapped a plastic bag, in a box, in another plastic bag then in bubble wrap I don't sign delivery notes received in good condition, l always sign as 'not checked', but really, if there is a way to sign away your rights, someone will try it on. I expect better from Rimmers. To be fair to Rimmers, item 3 on their label states 'check all contents / parts if possible, if you are unable to do this, mark the delivery note "contents not checked" before signing'. Sadly, companies have to protect themselves from unscrupulous customers who abuse returns policies. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 Gully - I agree that suppliers have to protect themselves from certain customers, but to put a sticker on the outside of a package giving instructions whereby you may sign away your statutory rights before you read them, and that you probably won't read until it is too late, is very naughty! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 I'm currently laying in wait for my postman, he dumps the local school post through my letterbox, it's 100 yards away, and now all the post for the local auction rooms, which are 100 yards the other way... neither apparently have a post box which he can access. It's probably illegal to do that. I'm going to bill him for each delivery I have to do. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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