68vitesse Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 Have bought old spanners at car boot sales and autojumbles then adapted them with a file, angle grinder, welder etc. for special applications. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 15 hours ago, Badwolf said: Anyone reading this in the future please note that because an 11/16th spanner is too small and a 3/4 appears to be OK don't be tempted to use the 3/4, use a good adjustable, to be on the safe side or find a 23/32. By the way, the replacement AF measurement does actually match the unit fitted, whether that is an original... who knows. It's probably metric these days... I have a set of metrics for 'emergency' use in the garage and they often fit items that all my Imperial sets won't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 May be useful: metric (mm) imperial (1/32) 1 - 2 - 3 1/8 4 5/32 5 3/16 6 1/4 7 9/32 8 5/16 9 11/32 10 13/32 11 7/16 12 15/32 13 1/2 14 9/16 15 19/32 16 5/8 17 21/32(11/16) 18 23/32 19 3/4 20 25/32 21 27/32(13/16) 22 7/8 23 29/32 24 15/16 25 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2018 Thanks for that. Been out today and the new temp sensor is giving a reading just below 1/2 on the gauge. Better than the just below 1/4, which was almost impossible to read from the driver's seat. I have also fitted a new oil pressure relief spring and piston along with a new oil pressure sensor. After the run the car was ticking over with 20psi but no warning light, even in quite a warm atmosphere. Hopefully that looks like the oil warning light problem has been sorted but will still put some decent oil in shortly. Next job, on with the drive shaft ujs and poly bushes. Prior to stripping the hard top and other repairs before trying my hand at painting etc. I have been following the threads that Karl (Bordfunker) put me onto for bodywork and painting, but still very unsure of the best products to use. I will get together a list so you can let me know what you all prefer, if you would be so kind, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 Quick question.... I have fitted inertia reel belts. What a difference!! Thing is, they keep disappearing underthe hood frame etc when not in use. I know that there are belt clips which fit onto seat head rests to hold the belt when not in use, but has anyone come across something that will attach to the hood frame bolts that don't foul the hood when putting it up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 4, 2018 Report Share Posted August 4, 2018 Clip holders were fitted at the factory (I think) and seem to be very hard to find, most being broken.... Then again, I have an inkling that somebody remade them? Part no zkc1150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2018 Thanks Clive. Does any one have a picture of them in situ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Think its ZKC 1550 maybe a 3d printed part excercise Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-safety-harness https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-safety-harness-automatic http://www.kilburn.ch/node/8 Think I should go and do something. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Thanks for that. I was sure that they were made but couldn't find them on my normal spares lists (ebay), Rimmers or Paddocks. I forgot about Canleys even though their web design is superior to the others. I'm sure that they were fitted to many models over the years, but with the modern plastic trimed b posts, are no longer used. Suprise that Securion don't include a generic version (drill your own holes) with their aftermarket kits. Great idea for 3D printing. Shame there are no further references on the Kilburn link Paul. I really think that the club should centralise research and development of this project as outlined on the other threads and not just leave it to individual members (and their families/computer literate children!!). There is much about plastic waste on this site but we can't organise missing parts to be made in plastic. Going wrong somewhere. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 even with Martyn on board HQ has not many staff, and who could or has the time to set aside to manage these projects ,, im sure it ends up with some of us somehow , its down to many hands make lite work , easy enough for club shop to purchase and market but in the real world developement is unlikely . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Shame. If the club could hook up with a profession 3D modelling company, as some members haave done, even engaging through Canleys etc and other clubs, it should not be too difficult to supply a broken part and have a limited run 'printed' for stock, even improving on the original material, especially as so many parts are common to so many vehicles. There should be a market out there for the first entrepeneur to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 5, 2018 Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 BW, I bought inertia reels from the club shop, well worth it as you say. However, the standard "hang it up hook" on the GT6 did not fit the new belt end. So I bought some off ebay, plenty of choice, just got to find the right one. I would cut and paste a picture, but I've forgotten how on this ancient stand by laptop. A glass of Cabernet did for my number one laptop last night! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 What a waste!! Copying on your old laptop should be pretty much the same as your drunken one. If you can get a picture, can you PM me with it. Looked on ebay but not found anything as yet but will keep looking. Thanks as always. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 Ok, so the old ZKC1550 parts are not available. Would it be practical to bolt one of these seat belt extenders using one of the hood frame bolts and a suitable washer, simply as a place to park the buckle when not in use... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-Car-Universal-Card-Holders-Adapter-Seat-Belt-Clip-Buckle-Safe-Extension/332715618627?hash=item4d77657143:g:6G0AAOSwkE9bRIYV Ebay number 332715618627 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 Think thats a good worthwhile idea So long as they are accessible and not need a contortionist to park the tails Or they wont get the use, there again nor wouldmthe originals Good idea , would solve many members problems , good thinking Let us know how you manage to fix it to what Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 Make sure its compatible with Securon as may are not Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlubikey Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 I really did think we - i.e. the TSSC - made them a couple of years back. Or was there an announcement and nothing actually happened? Where's that "scratching the head" emoticon when you need it? Stop it Richard, you'll get splinters. Cheers, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 6, 2018 Report Share Posted August 6, 2018 I thonk you will if you ask Bern they were stuck with them for a long time Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2018 So, it starts. With great fear and trepidation, I have started on replacing the drive shaft UJs. Wheel off, first thing noted, was that the brand new last year, leaf spring assembly bought from a major supplier, had one bolt hanging loose from one of the the spring straps - no nut, no washer... good start - and this was fitted by a garage!. Everything went well, got the wheel/drive shaft assembly off, then for the old UJs. (Yes I did mark the orientation before removing the assembly and splitting the UJ. That was a struggle. Haynes says hit the UJ with a mallet and the bearing caps will work off... oh yes!!! The first one.. yes.. amazing no problem. The second.. no way.. the third, eventually along with the forth. The second was well and truly ceased in and no matter how I jiggled the spider or tried to press out the remaining cap, it wouldn't budge. Then, amazingly the spider simple dropped onto the floor!!! You experts will tell me it should have fallen apart after the first cap came away.. not a chance. I eventually got the remaining bearing cap out by hitting it from the inside with a screwdriver and a mallet. it was so badly ceased. Now all cleaned up and ready to go Now, after that tale of woe, the questions: Should I paint the drive shaft and the UJ while it is off the car or leave the rust for the next 40 years If yes, what with, high temp paint, hammerite, plain metal paint. Would like to POR15 it but that's all I have on the shelf at the moment and I want to get it back together. If there anything to watch out for on re-assembly? Does anything need greasing. Do I remove the grease nipple in the spider and cap the hole after reassembling the UJ or leave the grease nipple in place and just cap that after greasing? What grease do I use? Watch this space for problems fitting the polybushes to the leaf spring and the damper. Forgot to order ones for the link arm so the old will have to do for the time being. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 9, 2018 Report Share Posted August 9, 2018 Re assembly is usually a big socket to fit over the cup and a short one to press the cups in . Do make relly certain the circlip grooves are cleaned out and tap the clip end to really ensure they have fully located Its easy to fit the circlips think they are home and one pops out on road test , and can wreck the yoke Ordinary lm grease , if you fit the cross pin the wrong way the extension greaser will foul up or never allow a gun on . And you want no uj lift or float when assembled , canley sell the over sized ones so there is some degree of adjustment Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2018 Thanks Pete, I knew you wouldn't let me down. Most of that is not in the books. What about paint/rust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 9, 2018 Report Share Posted August 9, 2018 They are forged so wont deteriorate much A clean and blow over with cheapo aerosol black lasts a good while Dont paint the yoke bores or clip grooves well not till its all assembled The clips leaving is a pet hate of mine and I have had this tee shirt even when I know they do it Grrr Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2018 One final thought for this evening. I plan to replace the 4 bolts holding the UJ/drive-shaft to the diff. The old ones are in pretty poor condition. Are these any sort of special steel (HT or similar), or just bog standard zinc plated steel/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 9, 2018 Report Share Posted August 9, 2018 Think they were V quality must be shanked not setcrews (all threaded) Propshafts are the same Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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