Badwolf Posted January 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 I have just been checking the parts supplied and they all appear to be there. This is all a bit new to me so I'm taking it fairly slowly. I fitted the old gearstick back, a couple of years ago with a new bush kit but obviously fitting the old knackered stuff would have been easier that the brand new metalwork. I don't want to damage any of the washers and seals or I will be back to square one in a few months time. I have noticed that the gasket supplied is very flimsy not much more than thin brown paper. I was expecting something, I don't know, made of pressed cork or thicker card. Is this normal? The old one is still in place on top of the gearbox, and as far as I'm aware undamaged. Maybe I should just use that? Whichever, does it need any sort of sealer, Hylomar or similar or just fit dry. Sorry about all the questions, I don't do gearboxes, engine, diff, indeed anything with cogs and teeth and things is not my thing..... now he tells us, us you all think!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 15, 2022 Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 1 hour ago, Badwolf said: the replacement shaft for my remote unit. Amazingly for the princely some of £2.52 including VAT but plus carriage. Bargain of the week for me. It was only when I put the new one next to the old one, that I realised just how much damage there was to the old one You got it for that price!! Amazing. The old one looks as though someone has been changing gear with a hammer. The remote will simply drop straight down into Pete's Wards; it has no fixed position of it's own and only the gearbox internals keep it in 1st, 2nd position and so on. If, as in my last rebuild of the J-type Spitfire gearbox you can't select any gears, then you've done it wrong. I had. Sealant is rarely needed for that topcover gasket, the oil doesn't usually fly about so high up so it hardly ever leaks from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted January 15, 2022 Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 The super thin gasket for the top cover-gearchange extension is what I got in the last kit I bought. The one I stripped off the gearbox I'm disassembling today was also very thin (I'm pretty sure this box was "rebuilt" at some point in the past and never used though so that won't be original). Given the position though I'd guess the gasket's purpose is more so you don't have metal-metal contact rather than being a super oil seal as it's going to be splashed rather than immersed in oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 I do appear to have an extra rubber 'O' ring and two plastic washers. Not exactly sure where they are meant to go...as yet. Checked against the parts list which does not appear to list everything that I have got. The video also shows a slightly different way of assembly to the parts list. Will try the workshop manual. Yes this is total paranoia, but looking at the state that the old stuff was in due to incorrect assembly I want to make sure that this time it's right. For example, I'm assuming that the nut that I took off the bottom of the gear stick should NOT be threaded full length and should have a shank!! By the way, now back in the kitchen!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 15, 2022 Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 57 minutes ago, Badwolf said: I do appear to have an extra rubber 'O' ring and two plastic washers. The O-ring is for the bit that Pete will tell you never to tackle - where the forward part of the remote shaft passes through into the housing that bolts down. Unless you have a desperate need - such as a broken drop arm - just leave that be. It's hard to replace that O-ring without breaking it. Extra plastic washers may be for different variants of the two ends of that new shaft you have (or the bottom of the stick). I believe they did change over the years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 1 hour ago, NonMember said: The O-ring is for the bit that Pete will tell you never to tackle - where the forward part of the remote shaft passes through into the housing that bolts down. Unless you have a desperate need - such as a broken drop arm - just leave that be. It's hard to replace that O-ring without breaking it. Extra plastic washers may be for different variants of the two ends of that new shaft you have (or the bottom of the stick). I believe they did change over the years. OK Thanks. The two 'O' rings look to be identical. The parts list and WSM didn't appear to mention there being two but I have now found the other one now that I know where to look, however it mentions two at that point and to make things more interesting, there is no mention of an 'O' ring at the base of the gear stick although there is one on the old stick and it is mentioned on the video that I have been following. Very interesting.. I will keep the extra as a spare. I was starting to wonder if the kit was for a variety of cars. Everything is loosely together so it's now just a question of finding a shanked bolt for the base of the gear stick, nipping up the two nuts and bolts and re-installing it. What could possibly go wrong??!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 15, 2022 Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 1 hour ago, Badwolf said: an 'O' ring at the base of the gear stick I don't recall ever seeing one there. What would be the point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 I did wonder about that, but there is one on my original gear stick and also on the video that I gave the URL for on the previous page. Has anyone else noticed one on there cars? I wouldn't think that is would be just specific to an overdrive Spitfire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 I have had a few cars with o-rings at base of gearstick. at least one could have been there from new. No idea why, perhaps they couldn't be bothered to fit it to right place on production line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 The WSM shows a washer there, although the groove on the one in the video might suggest a circlip. The parts manual doesn't seem to show anything. The only purpose it could serve is to support the ball, but the bulge on the gearstick would do that fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 It's weird. I would not have been too worried apart from the damage to the old parts which you have seen. The R Bros catalogue does not show an 'O' ring, but does appear to show two extra washers (146303) between the top hat style washers (156910) and the stick, which doesn't look to be correct in reality. The top hat washers fit into the stick with the steel ring passing through the assembly. Do the extra washers go on the outside of these to pack out the space or what?? I must admit to being somewhat confused by certain sections of the parts lists and WSM drawing as in some areas they appear to show washers on the outside of a joint (that is between the nut/bolt but when I take things apart the washers are on the inside of the joint (the forked end of a rod) . Is this a normal convention on the diagrams? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 top hat fit in the gearstick yes the flat ones on the middle pivot either side of the bush you wont see 0 rings they are in grooves in the housing , have to srip it out to find them dont bother many kits have parts to suit the evolution over the years so some bits are not always needed Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 Thanks Pete. Yes got that. Just confused by the parts drawings.. ..for example 146303 appears to be between the top hat and the stick!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 is 303 just to take up any float i normally find just tow stepped bushes /washers are a good tight fit in the fork end do fit the thro bolt with nut facing the reverse plate side or you get a end of bolt foul up and wonky shift pattern Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 Thanks Pete. I have just put the gear stick in facing the front!!! Don't ask. I was actually trying to work out which way the bolt went in, I had thought that the head would have been on the plate side but I will change it around. There does appear to be some differences between the WSM, Haynes, B.L parts books and the usual suspects web sites. As I mentioned previously, this has been such a mess, I am really trying to make sure that this is done right, but for what was to be a simple job, it is turning out a little more complicated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 It's all gone back in and amazingly looks like it just might work. As recommended, I just lined up the studs, put the assembly on top of the box, wriggled the gear stick and it appeared to drop into place. Reversing light bracket, then the four nuts and test. Well, I say test, neutral fine, gears stopped forward movement and the reversing lights even came on at the right time. Obviously, I need to out for a run but not today. Next job is to re-wire the overdrive to the gear knob switch. I have some flexible silicone test equipment lead which might do nicely, should take the load, and should be better than the old speaker cable that was in there. Then tidy up the rat's nest of wiring that I re-discovered when I took out the 'H' frame and tunnel cover. There is also a loose connection somewhere for the interior lights. Then, when the garage has warmed up, it's the fun job of fibre-glassing and repairing the tunnel cover.....can't wait!!! I might even take out the parcel shelf and fit the pod speakers neatly, then there is the forever weeping clutch master cylinder. A new repair kit came with the recent order for spares. Hopefully this will be of better quality than the last one. As usual, thank you all for your advice and support. onwards and upwards, or in the case of the tunnel cover...downwards. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2022 I have found out that the nice flexible cable that I was going to use for the overdrive switch is too short? I thought that I might get away with a couple of 9 inch extension leads, but the connectors will be sitting right against the main cap at the bottom of the stick and are going to get moved about a bit in use, so that's out. It's going to have to be the red thin wall cable that I have in the spares box. Oh well, find the crimper, yet again. At least I know that as well as the reversing lights, the overdrive cut out switch which gets tripped by the gear selector rod thingies works as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 18, 2022 Report Share Posted January 18, 2022 On 16/01/2022 at 13:59, Badwolf said: simple job, it is turning out a little more complicated! It is pretty simple if the bolts the wrong way round you will see under the alloy casting where it has fouled and marked up the casting have you checked the reverse stop bolt setting engage 1st or 2nd and set the bolt to have about a small mm clearance to the stop plate ie not quite striking the plate or you wear the stop plate badly if its in contact so just a small gap Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2022 Thanks Pete, but all back together now and looking fairly good. Wiring is being a pain, my fault should have found a tape measure!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2022 I do have one question which I forgot about. I have not been able the find a shouldered bolt for the base of the gear stick, will this be a problem? I know that they are recommended for master cylinder linkages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 18, 2022 Report Share Posted January 18, 2022 there is no shouldered bolt just a (prefereably) a bolt with a shank but it doesnt matter much as the bush has a crush tube inserted thro the bush ( well should have) wich takes all the rotational wear any bolt 1/4" unf is fine just use a nyloc nut and a light hand nip is all thats needed pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 18, 2022 Report Share Posted January 18, 2022 Part number 125054 in case one ever turns up but as Pete says a bolt is fine. There's nothing else at present! I thought I'd found a source but as usual it was just the suppliers telling me what they didn't have... sort of like Bullseye... "Let's have a look at what you could have won"... but didn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted January 18, 2022 Report Share Posted January 18, 2022 Just for future reference as I’ve just dismantled the shift mechanism on the box I’m taking apart. These are where (some of) the o-rings you didn’t replace live. I never noticed them when I did the one on my Herald (are they even on all models?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2022 Pete - Great, done all that. I noticed from R.Bros that they have discontinued the shouldered bolt in favour of a fully threaded one. I might put a couple on my next fleabay order, that is, providing the tunnel cover hasn't been put on by then. Wiring sorted out. Overdrive clicking in and out nicely with switch and when moving in and out of 3rd/4th years. Funny thing. It looks like the weeping clutch master isn't. There is no trace of fluid on either the piston shaft, the bulkhead or on the top of the pedal shaft/linkage. Just towards the bottom of the pedal shaft, on the pedall nself and on the rubber mat underneath. I am now thinking that I only cleaned up the mat, half the pedal shaft and the linkage when I replaced the rubbers, and that the remaining dot 5 that was still on the pedal itself has dropped onto the rubber mat and spread. The perceived drop in the level in the cylinder may actually be because I didn't fully fill it up??!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted January 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2022 Thanks Colin. I found this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362165894156?var=631376716702 Looks like it might fit the bill. As a total aside, I have been having problems with the stop/start on the Toyota that I bought 2nd hand in March 2020 plus a few other 'funnys' with the display. The garage are picking it up to check it over (5 year warranty end next week) and I have just managed to set off the alarm. I didn't even know it had an alarm. Electronics...pah!! Didn't know that it had stop/start for 4 months!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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