Badwolf Posted April 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2022 Thanks Pete, already on to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanT Posted April 7, 2022 Report Share Posted April 7, 2022 Ah ha! This is my next fix then. So simple. Had held off to see if could get originals from scrap. Top idea. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2022 Yes, even having to buy a couple of steel spacers off fleabay along with slightly longer bolts, it's still a simple cheap fix and easily removable if you don't like it or want to revert back to the original. I'm not sure if it works with the original seat belt fittings as mine have been put away safely... so that means..... I haven't got a clue where they are at the moment. If I come across them, I will update. The Securons that I got, which are excellent, and an easy fit in my Spit, have a difference hole/slot arrangement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimpus Posted April 17, 2022 Report Share Posted April 17, 2022 On 31/03/2022 at 18:15, Badwolf said: As a slight diversion (again!!), prompted by AlanT's thread (https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/9765-spit-1500-seat-belt-stowage-hooks/#comment-146261) about seatbelt stowage hooks, here is my solution to the parking of inertia reel seat belts. As you may remember, I have been trying to find a decent example of one of these..... Photo courtesy of Wimpus Then I realised that my replacement Securon seat belts, had a different latching plate to that on the original belts... ..and probably wouldn't work with the original 1500 fitting assuming that I could get one in decent condition or even at all. Everything I have seen has been either too expensive or a 3d re-engineered plastic cover with no spring innards. So, how to do something that suits, is easy and cheap. Firstly where to put it... attach it to the hood frame bolts.... Remove the bolt..... .. and from my box of plumbing fittings select a length of microbore pipe of the same internal diameter as the bolt and cut a piece about 1cm long... Spray with black paint and assemble. The slight distortion in the tube was due to over exuberance in test fitting, it's only copper after all! Fit the assembly .. a slightly longer bolt would have been better but I didn't have on to hand at the time. (Don't overtighten, like I did!!!) Then, just hook the plate over the tube... and release the clothes peg that I was using to keep the tension off the belt for the photos... Job done. No more scrabbling around under the hood bag trying to find the seat belt. Total cost, well nothing but a half an hour of time, a bit of scrap tube and a squirt of black paint. No, it's not concourse but it's practical and amazingly it works. Cheap and cheerful, my sort of job. Nice work. The original seatbelt clips only work on the original belts 😔 Few years ago found someone in Germany that re-makes the plastic covers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2022 Wimpus - Thanks. There is an upgrade to the plan due shortly, when my supplies arrive after Easter. I did see the German re-make, but as you say, it was only the plastic case, not the springs and they were quite expensive. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2022 Following on from my Seatbelt Stowage notes earlier up the thread, my nuts and bolts supplies have arrived from Spalding Fasteners after the Easter holidays and I now offer the Mark II, IIa and IIb versions depending on your own choice of size. A great philosopher once said Keep It Simple Stupid (known to me as the KISS principal). I must say that I very rarely follow this principal but in this case ... well, see for yourself. Following the excellent comment from Pete (BFG) and after considering the bolt that I didn't have for the base of my gear lever (shouldered), the following thoughts wandered through my lonely little brain. Why do I need the copper/steel sleeving on the bolt? There are readily available production items that should work even better, so I ordered these... Yes, a selection of shouldered bolts and some half height nuts. We have 1" hex, 1 1/2" hex and 1 1/2" allen key bolts. Choose the one that you prefer, depending on how far you want the bolt head to stick out. I decided on the shortest one (a 1 1/4" may be the optimum, but Spalding were out of stock). Wind the nut on, add a washer.... and away you go. Just screw into the hood frame fitting, tighten up and the job's done. Simples, and although not as cheap as the original design which was made from bits lying around the garage, it's probably much more secure as you can put a little extra torque on the nut to make sure that the hood frame plate is nice and tight and doesn't come adrift. The head on the allen key bolt was a little small for my preference as the belt fell off, but you can mix and match to suit yourself, it's still a cheap fix. It looks just like the one on the original post so being lazy, here's the original photo again!!! Good luck with it and I hope it's useful to you all. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted May 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2022 After nearly 2 months of diversions, urgent commitments and COVID, I have finally ventured into the shed, only to find that the garden fairies have done absolutely no work on my gearbox tunnel cover. They are useless. Only one thing for it..get on with the job (have I really just typed that??....forgive me!!!). First, vacuum out and clear up the strands of fibreglass that the fairies appear to have spread all over the place. Next, general tidy up, then sand over the rather patchy resin that has cured nicely over the months but as I ran out is not too good. Tomorrow the plan is to mix up a decent batch of F/g and give the cover a good final coat, after that it's raid the box of aluminium offcuts to make the access panels. One for the gearbox oil, the other for the clutch slave. I am not worried about access to the speedo cable.. I want to leave a bit of the original cover for strength. After that it's SilentCoat and all back together tidying up the wiring (velcro cable fixers) as I go. Posting this will hopefully give me a little more enthusiasm to finish off as since my dose of COVID, life has been a little, how shall I say, lacklustre. Oft we jolly well go...... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted May 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2022 At last the final coat of glass fibre resin has now been applied and is hopefully curing as I type. I think that there is now more resin than cardboard. I was very surprised how much got sucked into the board which is why I ran out. What with the repairs and coating the cardboard pretty much three times I have used about 800cc. At one point I was wondering where it was all going. Hopefully, will add some pictures later. At last things are moving again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted May 28, 2022 Report Share Posted May 28, 2022 16 hours ago, Badwolf said: After nearly 2 months of diversions, urgent commitments and COVID, I have finally ventured into the shed, only to find that the garden fairies have done absolutely no work on my gearbox tunnel cover. They are useless. You need garage fairies. The ones that hide all of my 7/16 spanners. Garden fairies are the ones that spread weeds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted May 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2022 2 hours ago, Mathew said: Bet thats alot stronger now! With the resin sinking in it must make the card more water resistant. It certainly appears to be somewhat heavier and it was amazing how quickly the fibreglass cured after carefully measuring the resin and catalyst and mixing well. Nice finish too, a sort of matt effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted May 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 Is there an optimum size for making the inspection holes in the tunnel cover, without it disintegrating? I want something that I can actually access and with the greatest thanks to Doug for his comments on another thread about this, I think that I need something a little larger than his (don't even think about it!!!) that I can access without having to go to too much trouble, so the larger the better, maybe 4" long by 3" high on each side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bfg Posted May 30, 2022 Report Share Posted May 30, 2022 Inspection plugs (rubber bungs) are available in different sizes. If they are not big enough then simply make an inspection hatch with a removable plate cover. The standard card or grp covers are non-structural so there's no worry about that. Just shape and fasten the inspection hatch cover ..with sufficient screws (into trim clips) to form a seal against noise, heat a fumes. NB. Generously rounded inside corners to any inspection hole helps prevent it from cracking / splitting from a corner. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 30, 2022 Report Share Posted May 30, 2022 when i had the Vit6 i covered the hand hole with a piece from a truck mud flap and some tap screws size matters ....as does gettingthe hole to line up with the filler plug needs a 6" tolerance ha !! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted May 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2022 Pete (BFG) - Thanks for the advice. I had not considered rounding the corners. So a hole drilled at each corner, join up with a jigsaw and away we go. Brilliant. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted May 30, 2022 Report Share Posted May 30, 2022 6 hours ago, Bfg said: NB. Generously rounded inside corners to any inspection hole helps prevent it from cracking / splitting from a corner. Thanks Pete, good tip 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bfg Posted May 30, 2022 Report Share Posted May 30, 2022 On 30/05/2022 at 16:16, Badwolf said: Pete (BFG) - Thanks for the advice. I had not considered rounding the corners. So a hole drilled at each corner, join up with a jigsaw and away we go. Brilliant. ..if you're drilling.. then a hole saw gives a better radius and is easier to get a start with jig saw blade in. In practice you don't loose much in access even with a 1" dia hole saw, because your hands can't do much when squeezed into any tighter corner.. Tip 2.. mark where you need to cut and do that off the car, as a jigsaw blade hitting the gearbox is.. let's say 'worrying'. Tip 3.. after you cut the inspection hole, sand those edges and any fibres inside or out just around the hatch. And then sand it again with a much finer grit, and then paint / varnish / coat with a little more resin, over those edges. The reason being that most of us don't really like those glass fibres in the back of hands or wrists. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2022 Pete (BFG)- Thanks for the advice. All taken on board and the job is actually progressing. Unfortunately I have left my camera cards with the up to date pictures at a friend's place so it will be Wednesday before I can post my latest efforts. I have found that the last batch of fibreglass resin was a lot thinner than the previous batch. Ideal for what I want and (thanks for your warning) where it has run off at the bottom of the cover, it is as sharp as glass. Thanks again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2022 A salutory lesson. Getting on very slowly with the tunnel cover, but a least something is happening, even if it's all going wrong. Anyway, the lesson...when someone gives you advice...listen. Cut out the inspection holes (photos to follow) as suggested by BFG. Sanded the edges.... DO NOT CHECK THE SMOOTHNESS OF THE EDGE WITH AN UNPROTECTED HAND!!! Woke up during the night with little finger giving grief. Following morning, no better. Magnifying glass out. How can two microscopic strands of glass cause so much annoyance? Finally got the b*ggers out.. relief. No more than 2mm long but what!! So Pete, thanks for the warning. I, of course, knew better... Doh!!! Extra f/g coating to follow, as per instructions!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bfg Posted June 11, 2022 Report Share Posted June 11, 2022 ^ oops n' ouch ..but then who's not learnt by similar experience ! ? Btw., possibly boring but perhaps very-worthwhile reading .. Some of us are pretty sensitive to the raw glassfibre mat, just in handling the stuff. Basically that comes down to the dust of broken glass filaments (strands) getting into our skin. I find that wearing mechanic's grade (thickness and durability) of nitrile rubber gloves * works well to keep that dust from the soft creases of skin between fingers, and a well fitting disposable face mask will help protect you inhaling those fine filaments, but of course even they can be pretty uncomfortable in the heat of the summer. Fibreglassing during the coolness of early morning can help with your own body heat and sweat, as of course can be working in the cool shade of a tree or under a temporary cover / gazebo. When fibreglassing on the boat I usually wear a disposable protective overalls (the white ones with built in hood). They are surprisingly robust for what appears to be paper, and tears can be closed over with gaffer tape. Because they are reusable many times over, they are not expensive. Naturally when removing them, take care not to shake the dust off in your or anyone else's air space., nor to turn the things inside out, whereby that dust gets inside the suit ready for the next time you put it one. Wearing just underwear in them, means they are not overly-hot in the summer. Obviously it's best to handle the raw materials carefully (deliberately slowly) to minimise shaking the dust into the air and over your skin, and this included subsequently shaking your work clothes of the dust.! Do that outside, away from others and in a breeze ..with the clothes downwind. In short be conscious of the fact that it's glass filaments you are handling. Nothing to worry about if you treat it with respect ..but it's not something for small children or pets to be playing in or sniffing at. Cutting, drilling, grinding, or sanding cured fibreglass gets that glass filament dust in to the air, onto our skin (inc. face n' neck) into our hair and over / into clothes. It also goes over everything else in the garage / work space. Same precautions are necessary ..starting off with slow speed cutting to lessen its dust and an old but well-filtered vacuum cleaner (with its out-blowing-air pointing away from the job. Wear a face mask as you dust nearby surfaces and sweep up after the job, and please bag the rubbish. * Sainsbury's sell blue rubber kitchen gloves, which cover your wrists too, and come in a good range of sizes ..even up to BFG. They are very good and can even withstand a quick wash in acetone (then quickly rub dry on a cotton cloth).. so are reusable many times over. Tip.. glass filaments (rather than actual splinters) in sensitive skin feels like a prickly rash. Do not scratch. They are very easily removed from the skin (such as your face and neck, the back of your hands and forearms) with a damp sponge and no soap. Simply draw the damp sponge (a washing-up sponge works great) over the surface ..and the friction in the sponge does the rest. Wash / rinse the sponge out under running water and repeat. Some folk suffer from skin reactions and respiratory discomfort from the chemicals. Polyester resin is not so aggressive but its catalyst is acid., so when mixed with the resin it can be uncomfortable for some. Most of us won't have much of a problem with a little splatter here n' there, or when our gloves tear. But don't leave it on your skin for too long. Have a roll of clean tissue (kitchen roll or mechanics paper roll) close by for when you need it. Clean acetone is most effective in its removal and although the skin can deal with being quickly washed in the stuff - DO NOT get it in your eyes - it stings like anything.! Dosing with lots of clean water is the quickest way to alleviate that. Lungs don't cope very well with the chemical vapours, but I've always been fine in a suitably ventilated / large enough space. However, within the confines of a boat, I've often needed an electric fan blowing towards my face. The vapours also permeate clothes, so others can smell it on you, and like a good curry it will be on your breath and come out of your skin. Epoxy resins are much worse for me, they also wash off (while still wet / uncured) with acetone, and for me is no worse on the skin than polyester ....but others have been known to suffer a serious reaction and been rushed off to hospital ..so it's best to avoid skin contact altogether. Personally my respiratory system doesn't cope well with its vapours. When painting to seal the water tanks within my boat, with epoxy products - I needed to wear a professional full face mask, with spirit-vapour / virus-quality filtration. Once fully cured, the epoxy-sealed water tanks are used for potable (drinking) water. Hope that helps, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2022 Thanks Pete BFG, much appreciated. Does anyone know the correct size of the spire clips and self tappers (4 needed) that hold the metal collar around the rubber boot thing around the gear stick into place. Mine are goosed and not sure about measuring them. Spire clip appears to be FU5698 but the usual susects don't appear to show dimensions, if at all!!. https://www.canleyclassics.com/?diagram=triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-gearbox-cover&ptno=FU5698 Gauge 10 vaguely rings a bell, sure that it's not M10. Any ideas please. This simple job has become a disaster. Details to come...eventually! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2022 The big news for me is that the tunnel cover is nearly finished, yes it's true. Just a few questions before I post the disaster tale. How many key clips are there altogether Do they go up around the bulkhead or only on the horizontal bits. Stupid has repaired bits, covered over the original holes and taken off the spire clips. Add to that...knocked over the box with the bits in so I don't even know if I have found them all. Don't say it, yes I know. This job has gone really well!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 1, 2022 Report Share Posted July 1, 2022 26 minutes ago, Badwolf said: The big news for me is that the tunnel cover is nearly finished, yes it's true. Just a few questions before I post the disaster tale. How many key clips are there altogether Do they go up around the bulkhead or only on the horizontal bits. Stupid has repaired bits, covered over the original holes and taken off the spire clips. Add to that...knocked over the box with the bits in so I don't even know if I have found them all. Don't say it, yes I know. This job has gone really well!!! I still use the key clips although many just substitute them with straight lengths of metal. I put them on the horizontal edges only; regardless of what was originally there vertical faces get large washers. Four along each horizontal side and two holes either side on each vertical face. Before fitting the last tunnel (yes, the one that's currently off again!) I marked the floorpan with a black marker alongside each spire clip so that once the tunnel was secured to the vertical face I knew where to drill through the horizontal edges for the spire clips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2022 Colin - Thanks, I appear to have more holes than clips hence the enquiry. Also, I'm sure that there were key plates on the verticals as well. Looked at the parts lists but some appear to have 3 horizontal holes, others 4. The parts lists say 8 in total but the diagrams show spire clips on the vertical parts of the cover but I appear to have spire clips on the bulkhead. This has not been as straight forward as I was expecting and my reading of the parts lists and diagrams do not help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted July 1, 2022 Report Share Posted July 1, 2022 When I was stripping out, all the spire clips where on the Floor pan and vertical bulkhead. (or what was left of it!). Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted July 1, 2022 Report Share Posted July 1, 2022 Pretty sure the same slip over long slotted & profiled washers were used everywhere. On the vertical engine face I think my Vitesse and Spit had 4 spire clips one each near bottom corners and one each near RH & LH top corners, can't remember one towards centre I have replaced the cover with an aftermarket fibre glass one so maybe wrong & I have used big 1.5in washers & nuts and bolts at the top to spread the load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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