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** ON TO THE NEXT BIT ** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!


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The video showed a part threaded bolt and the original listed in R Bros was the same but now superceded in their listings for a fully threaded one. According to my research it should be a 1/4" unf X 1" with nyloc nut. My friend in the bolts business says that he might have them in stock but I doubt it. His stuff is mostly metric these days.

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Aah if you still had Bunnings they would have had plastic packs of different length and dia UNF bolts with different shank lengths. Even better the US Masters had everything.

failing that do you have bolt specialists retailers or am I just spoilt living in a city I have 3 bolt/bearing suppliers within 1.5klm.

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being set screw or shank/shoulder  doesnt matter the crush tube does the work the bolt does not need to rotate 

and should be nipped up to make a secure fixing the tube stops you crushing the forked end of the rod 

do not worry about this   sleep easy 

even a M6 will work if you dont have spare 1/4 unf around  

Pete

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On 18/01/2022 at 17:20, Badwolf said:

As a total aside, I have been having problems with the stop/start on the Toyota that I bought 2nd hand in March 2020 plus a few other 'funnys' with the display. The garage are picking it up to check it over (5 year warranty end next week) and I have just managed to set off the alarm.  I didn't even know it had an alarm. Electronics...pah!!  Didn't know that it had stop/start for 4 months!!!

So, the garage picked up the Toyota, put it on the diagnostics which reported that all was working perfectly and that all the miriads of computers running the thing were working correctly. The stop/start thingie (which I don't use but wanted to make sure that the engine management system was working properly before the end of the warranty period) keeps showing battery charging even after a 50 mile run, but the dealer says that if the computer senses that the drain on the battery from all the other gadgets is higher than a certain amount, the stop/starts doesn't work. Do I believe that......!!!!!! Anyway, at least my worries are on file in case of further developments.

 

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  • 1 month later...

This is a post for whoever it was that was looking for the diameter of the headlining rods for a Spitfire hardtop. My sincere apologies for forgetting. I have just been working in the garage (yes, at long last) and came across the headlining complete with rods.  So the answer is 6.5mm on my MkIV Spitfire.  Whoever asked, I hope that this is some little use for you after all this time. 

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  • Badwolf changed the title to **APOLOGIES** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!

Back to the garage, but then from the previous post, you might have guessed that.  I have actually started work on the tunnel cover. No photos yet, but you all know what one looks like, except that this one is covered in a multitude of...well...er... gunge. There is nearly every colour and type of sealant. Blue, red, white, transparent. solid, elasticky, sticky and just plain weird.  There are also numerous holes and not just for the gear stick.  I really wonder if it's worth the effort and maybe I should just buy a new one....but then, I now have all the stuff to attempt to repair it and if I make of mess then I still have the option of buying a new one.. oh the decisions! What is really annoying is the damage done by the garage in 're-fitting' it after they freed off the clutch when I recommissioned the car. It looks like someone put it roughly into place and fitted it with their boot. Could be the same gorilla who fitted my leaf spring...Hmmmm.  Anyway. It's been put away for the night. I will have another look in the morning and see what really needs to be done. Colin, this is all your fault. If you hadn't posted about fibre-glassing one of your covers, I wouldn't have thought about it.

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  • Badwolf changed the title to **APOLOGIES/TUNNEL COVER** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!

i FG the original fibre one on the Vit6 when we got her , later changed fo a FG version  not very nice 

the abs ones were not around back then but i can still see the orig with the build up of FG in all the failing zones 

still think the best sealing is cut strips of foam from a 18mm  slab ex dunelm .

squashes easy  fills all the wonky gaps  doesnt need to be close cell stuff  and CHEAP 

it just works  

Pete

 

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BW,

I got a club shop plastic one, I've posted pictures of it half a dozen times, you must have seen it! It needs fettling, there's a raised lip all around the edge which is not on the original, I think it's to stiffen it up. Don't buy the fixing kit, it's a rip off, the seal is too shallow because of the lip. I added draught excluder tape to the "proper" seal.  I could've used a double layer of draught excluder and not bothered with the one from the kit. And those silly rectangular sliding washers? Don't bother! They may be necessary on a cardboard tunnel, but not on a plastic one. 

My brother FB'd his original cardboard tunnel, more FB than cardboard now, looks horrible, but effective. It's under the carpet, who cares?! 

And SilientCoat on the underside of the tunnel is worthwhile.

Doug

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Doug - Thanks for that. Yes, I had read this on various threads. I have my ideas as to what I am going to do and will probably now Fg the cardboard one, repair and adapt it with access areas for gear box and clutch slave. If I mess it up badly I can then get a plastic one and adapt that. As you say, it's going under the carpet so as long as it's solid and the correct shape, it should be ok, I hope. More to follow.

 

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I've got to take mine out shortly, not looking forward to it! I've a" sloppy gear change mechanism kit"  and my tunnel carpet is a bit baggy around the gear stick, I'm growing increasingly irritated by it. I'm gonna pad it out with upholstery foam.

Doug

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Doug - I took the cover out, as you have probably read earlier, to do the same job, including replacing the gear stick and linkage. Thought that I would fettle up the cover and add inspection panels at the same time. As usual, other things got in the way and the weather turned too cold for the fibreglass to cure..... well, it was a good excuse at the time. I never understood why Triumph used those dreadful little keyway plates to secure the cover, when a length of aluminium strip would have been much easier and more practical (watch this space). Cost and labour differences would have been negligible.

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1 hour ago, Badwolf said:

when a length of aluminium strip would have been much easier

Having lost several of the keyway plates, my Spitfire's gearbox cover is held down by a number of short aluminium strips - about 4cm of 2mmx15mm strip with a hole drilled in the middle. It was easier to make up with what was to hand, not necessarily easier to fit.

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