PeteH Posted June 6, 2018 Report Share Posted June 6, 2018 On 03/06/2018 at 9:24 AM, Anglefire said: Found my Land Rover socket ? still wouldn’t work on the one bottom nut but did on the other one. Just. But gasket is swapped - just got to fit the carbs and try it. There is a lot of oil in the inlet though. To be fair I did put some on top of the flange yesterday when testing for leaks - but I thought that had burnt off - especially as it had a 40odd mile run out yesterday evening. Gasket looks thinner too. And a different pattern of holes. I also swapped the clamps for the ones off the old engine as the dimples are much prouder so look to be clamping the inlet better. Oh well time to get back into the sun. Hi Looking at the Pic; showing the clamps, My gut feeling would be that most of the "effort" is going into clamping the exhaust and less to the clamping of the Inlet. due to the clamps not pulling down square, it is quite possible that some "effort" is being lost applying a bending moment to the studs rather that putting pressure on the inlet manifold. There could be enough loss of effort here to allow the gasket not to seal properly?. I would be tempted to put a Small packing piece (1-2mm) under the "low" side to square them up, and re-torque with the clamps more square?. This should make the clamping effect more equal?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted June 6, 2018 Report Share Posted June 6, 2018 I agree Pete and did fit a small penny washer behind the clamp on the inlet side before the gasket was changed last time on the small top clamps. The bottom clamps don’t seem to be an issue though I’m not sure how much brake cleaner got to the gasket joint! i didn’t put them behind the new gasket because I put better clamps with dimples that actually lifted the centre of the clamp away from the exhaust flange. Hopefully I’ll have time to swap the gasket for the new one and hopefully the metal sealing ring will do it’s job. I am tempted to run a small beed of RTV around too - though I know it shouldn’t be required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted June 6, 2018 Report Share Posted June 6, 2018 Changed the gasket tonight - only took about 75minutes start to finish including running the engine I'm pretty sure its sorted - it runs but I had to increase the idle with the butterfly screws to make it run at least enough to spray some brake cleaner over the inlet manifold gasket. And there was no change Now just need to sort the carbs out - but is too late to play on the drive now - and I'm on the 5:40 train to London in the Morning So from my perspective - get Payen gaskets! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2018 Well thats sounds like its solved the uncontrolled fast idle problem brilliant Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted June 8, 2018 Report Share Posted June 8, 2018 Ok I’ll throw a little twiddle day question in. As you know I’ve replaced my water pump and added new coolant. Iv now got a few small leaks on my header tank along the side seems. The new antifreeze has obviously found some weak points. Can I add something to the tank to seal these like radweld or is that a no no. Thanks Grant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted June 8, 2018 Report Share Posted June 8, 2018 Hi It`s a lot of years since I had to use "radweld" On a rather elderly Ford Van, but it worked back then, so I cannot see why not?. Superior to the "porridge" my dad used!. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted June 8, 2018 Report Share Posted June 8, 2018 I put some Bars Leaks in mine when the rear drivers side (carbs) water cap weeped a bit when cold. Seems to have sorted that out. I got the car out again tonight and got the carbs tuned up better now. I'm not 100% convinced that spraying the brake fluid is totally fool proof And I'll give my thoughts as to why. When I changed the gasket on Wednesday night, the engine didn't really get hot - I sprayed around the manifold and there was not change. Brilliant. Tonight one of the last things I did was to spray the manifold again - and the revs dropped. - but if I have a leak, then it must be small because I had to increase the idle speed with the idle screws to make it run at the right speed and also lean it off a couple of flats (which makes sense if air is coming in from elsewhere, more fuel is needed) So I had a thought - yes I had a leak, but probably also was coming in all around the inlets and they have sealed to a great extent - and the brake cleaner is cooling the manifold down and the fuel is condensing a bit so goes lean. I say this as well because, the contents is a mixture of ISOBUTANE and Butane - both highly explosive . So surely any leak would pull the vapours in a burn causing an increase in idle speed, not decrease? Anyway, whatever, it does appear to be running better - though might have to change needles as it may to too lean running now. But that can wait until I can give it a proper run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2018 The header tank sems notorious for the seamed flange to leak, mine did on the Vit6 which was resoldered witha blow lamp, getting it clean to Get the solder to take is the hard part, I also had a NOS unsed tank this only lasted a year and the seams let go , im convinced its vibration that kills it , my last attemp mounted it on small rubber mounts ut then sold her so no idea if that extented life A acid self cleaning plummers flux helps a solder repair but must be cleaned off after Barrs or Kel seal will work we used Barrs on every truck we built for years to cure seapages Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted June 9, 2018 Report Share Posted June 9, 2018 Thanks chaps I will try adding a sealer first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 Ive now got a local 1500 spitty giving some awful idle problems, after much soul searching decided today to give it a squirt test bingo the carb and manifold gaskets leak like a seive payen on order, its got the dimples on the clamps but angles look poor, and this ties in with it having a 421 fitted and they didnt change the gasket must try harder. having set reset and checked all the basics including ridding it of waxstats to no avail , and squirt squirt has proven it leaks ...hoplessly pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted June 12, 2018 Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 Interesting - quick question - did you use brake cleaner and did the revs go up or down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 the leak on the heat shield gaskets speed went up on the manifold it went down theres a reason for that ,,,somewhere, used brake cleaner , as cant suck fuel with these teeth in pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted June 12, 2018 Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: on the manifold it went down Yeah mine did that too. Tis odd. As I say I think it could be the cooling effect of the evaporation of the cleaner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 Im just annoyed i didnt try this when all the troubles started , have had the carbs off to swap wax stats and back again the joints are fine but the faces must be concave the problems of picking up where others have got it a bit wrong. it idles like a sick pig, ...i should have known better Grrr !!! and whilst picking a spark plug from the cupboard the factors have given me 6 2 bp6es and 4 bpR6es my favorite hate more Grrrr!!!! i didnt check them and no reciept now more Grrrr!!!! when i get to the care home i will let you all know !!!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted June 12, 2018 Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 We have all been there to be honest Pete. Always go for the difficult fix first rather than trying the fairly simple. I mean why wouldn’t you ? I’ve still got an oil pressure “issue” on start up. Thought I’d fixed it but is back. I’ve ordered a 9/16 (well 14mm) drill bit which I’ll chop down to see if the seat is dodgy. If that doesn’t work it might be sump off to check the pump and see if blue printing it improves things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 All sorted runs likema dream One thing , it doesnseem txhis all started after another trader fitted a 421 , the kit comes with a gasket but it wasnt used, I should have listened more to that lead, So old gasket, the worst problem is the nuts seized solid on the studs, this means when refitted they only went as tight as the stud would Screw In the head , the nut is doing very little appears tight but no such luck 4 studs sheared trying to remove the nuts, New studs new gaskets , check and flatten the mating faces which had small distortions, and one happy car Pete 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted June 17, 2018 Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 Took mine out today for the first time since I changed the gasket and retuned the carbs. Running nice now and will idle at about 900 when hot. Starts with some choke. All I have to do now is to stop the choke sticking - it’s really close to not doing so - and if you drive off smartish the giggling along the road is enough to drop it back. Has a nice turn of acceleration too. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 17, 2018 Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 1 hour ago, Anglefire said: All I have to do now is to stop the choke sticking - it’s really close to not doing so - and if you drive off smartish the giggling along the road is enough to drop it back. When my brother had his Mk2, the choke was "just a tiny bit sticky". Normally you wouldn't even notice, because the engine vibration was enough to release it. But when I got in on a hot day in France, having parked up not long before with the front bumper against a wall, and instinctively pulled the choke... there was just no way it would actually start without pushing it away from the wall to open the bonnet to manually push the jets back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 The joys of SU carb micky mouse linkages Its down to bend it , twist it realign it ,, oil it and shout at it It best to take it all apart mix up all the spiral return springs and levers and then scatch head working out what the heck went where Always do this on grass so you loose half of the parts Well thers nowt on TV Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 My choke linkage is only connected on the rear carb. The front sticks dreadfully. Starts ok so not worth the hassel of stripping down and doing the neccessary to the front one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 on some the small supply tube may benefit from a 3mm cut off to shorten a little if its long it tends to jam the jet in its holder its and SU thing ....hate em . and got two !!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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