Paula Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 25 minutes ago, poppyman said: Have you got any brake cleaner Paula, spray some into the carbs and then try. Tony. I do! Stand by! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 see what happens and then we can start ....head scratching was he running about right the day before you had difficulty starting ?? I was going to say mark a nut see how much it moves from before but that idea is ................too late if you end up wit head off , leave plugs in and turn head upside dow fill chamber with anything runny it will leak past the valves if the seats are not in good nick getting valves out is easy small block of wood in the chamber sit the two valves on it now witha socket over the top cup and collets give the socket a good whack the collets will jump out and you can remove the spring and the valve drops out get a cornflake packet with 12 holes mark front or 1 to 12 so you know which valve came from where , you can reseat valves with grinding past and a battery drill preferably one you can reverse , you will need a spring compressor to refit the valve springs and collets Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 I had a Toledo that would regularly refuse to start because it just kicked the starter out every time. It happens because the Bendix starters disengage as soon as the engine kicks, so if the first fire is weak the starter gives up. You need the engine to accelerate hard enough from a single fire that the next cylinder is pushed over compression on inertia alone. Check that you haven't disturbed the choke linkage or pinched a fuel line. A weak mixture could well cause the symptoms you're seeing. Also check the manifolds are properly seated - any air leaks will also do it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Still no go. I've come in as it's starting to rain. It was running fine before i went for a drive and got stuck in traffic. It was still running ok when i got home though. Maybe a little overheated. Then the next day it wouldn't start. It's almost like it would start with a push and then be fine after a few good revs, but that might be wishful thinking. I'll charge up the batteries (i have a couple) and try again after he's had a night to think about it. Such a shame, i want to see if the head is ok now. Maybe I warped it going for that drive. IMG_6444.mov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 youve not disturbed any HT or dizzy stuff?? check the points are opening witha gap did you use Choke ? stick a meter or small test bulb on coil feed is it live when cranking ?? if you put a small bulb on the dizzy /coil terminal and earth it should wink as the points open when cranking Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Paula, You've re-torqued the head? If you have it's likely the tappet gaps are now wrong. So resetting the tappets would be a good idea. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 It definitely needs the battery charged by the end of that video but the rest is the classic "almost" starting. Try some throttle assist if you aren't already (but not too much). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Agree with non member Paula, might be an idea to swop the plugs as well if you have a spare set..... It's trying to go.... Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 I don't have any extra plugs. I think i need a new rotor. The old one was in a terrible state. I've changed the cap but don't have a rotor annoyingly. I've cleaned it up but it doesn't look good. I've got a spark though. There's fuel getting to the carbs but I thought it was blocked until i blew it through. There was a bit of a pop as it cleared??? The carbs needed oil too. They were a bit sticky. Everywhere i've looked i think i've found the problem. I'm running accuspark "points". I could pop over to Moss tomorrow morning and get a new rotor and plugs. I bet that'll do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 11 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: Paula, You've re-torqued the head? If you have it's likely the tappet gaps are now wrong. So resetting the tappets would be a good idea. Doug Yeah, i did them. They were very close. Only had to adjust 4 of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Paula, I only know that because it happened to me, I sat cursing Pete Lewis for telling to tighten it down, until a dim bulb lit up in my brain. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 make sure you get points and rotor for yours should be a Delco dizzy D202 or suchlike glad you did the tappets I should have realised that its often forgotten but Doug got in Ive just phoned him and he reminded me of what i had forgotten Ha ! also when you pull the choke does the thing actualy operate the carb barrier ?? ignor Doug he likes gauges not dimmmmm bulbs Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 13 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: make sure you get points and rotor for yours should be a Delco dizzy D202 or suchlike glad you did the tappets I should have realised that its often forgotten but Doug got in Ive just phoned him and he reminded me of what i had forgotten Ha ! also when you pull the choke does the thing actualy operate the carb barrier ?? ignor Doug he likes gauges not dimmmmm bulbs Pete I'll check the choke. Moss don't have any BP6HS. Is there another option? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 1 minute ago, Paula said: I'll check the choke. Moss don't have any BP6HS. Is there another option? Just take them out and clean them Paula, then give them a few minutes in the oven to warm them up before you fit them.... It does make a bit of a difference if its a bit flooded with fuel. Tony. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 thats seems to be a short reach plug not correct for the 6 cyl which needs a 3/4" reach plug do not get plugs with an R in the suffix they seem to cork up our weak HT voltages 6HS Type: Projected centre electrode insulator Thread Size: 14mm (9/16") Hex Size: 20.8mm (13/16") Reach: 9.5mm (3/8") <<<<<<<<<<< Thread Pitch: 1.25mm (1/16") the normal would be BP6ES Details about NGK bp6es: Threaddiameter: 14mm Threadreach: 19mm <<<<<<<<<<< Seattype: flat Hexsize: 21mm Tipconfiguration: projected Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 How about these?> https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/spark-plug-champion-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 12 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: thats seems to be a short reach plug not correct for the 6 cyl which needs a 3/4" reach plug do not get plugs with an R in the suffix they seem to cork up our weak HT voltages 6HS Type: Projected centre electrode insulator Thread Size: 14mm (9/16") Hex Size: 20.8mm (13/16") Reach: 9.5mm (3/8") <<<<<<<<<<< Thread Pitch: 1.25mm (1/16") the normal would be BP6ES Details about NGK bp6es: Threaddiameter: 14mm Threadreach: 19mm <<<<<<<<<<< Seattype: flat Hexsize: 21mm Tipconfiguration: projected I have to say i was thinking that myself Pete, but not knowing a lot about the 1600 thought they might be different? I used to have the bp6hs in my sidevalve pop. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Ok good to know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 4 minutes ago, Paula said: How about these?> https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/spark-plug-champion-4 Just wondering why the short reach were in Paula? Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 BP5E were in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 6 minutes ago, Paula said: BP5E were in I think those would have been bp 5e Paula which would be correct as per the manual, which equal champion n12y. Just have a look the manual. Tony. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x-NGK-BP5E-4669-Standard-Spark-Plugs-For-JAGUAR-E-TYPE-4-2/174394547572?hash=item289ab99d74:g:~ccAAOSwMIhfN4~A These are the correct ones Paula, but the ones at Paddocks will be ok. Tony. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 and in the fake spark plug post a while back it was found ngk do not glaze the centre insulator and its found this gets contaminated with choke enrichment and the break down early life Bosch still glaze theirs need to search for it again Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paula Posted October 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 I remember there being many options in scooters. Types for town driving and open roads. We were convinced we needed race spec plugs to go faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Moss should have them in stock as they fit a huge range of cars Tony. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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