Tipidave Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 Hi all once again looking for some pointers to get me going in the right direction ... the drivers door on my 1200 convertible will often pop open ( bit disconcerting on round about!) and requires slamming to shut. On initial inspection it looks as though maybe the clasp is not seating all the way down? Also the check strap on the a post seems loose and makes quite a clunky noise ... not sure how to gain access to investigate/ repair... any ideas on either gratefully received 😀👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 Have you got the anti-bust catches fitted? Also are the "normal" locks all free and the slider moves OK? Pic below of the catches Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 As Clive said, check the slider on the striker plate. It's not obvious but if that is sticky the lock will often not swing over fully and then randomly releases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 Also check that the locking peg in the door mechanism that engages with the striker plate flips over easily and positively. There is a little spring in there that should give a distinct “over-centre” action. (Flip it to the shut position with a finger, return by pressing the door handle button). Without this they tend not to latch fully and the door pops open. If found to be sticky, try lining first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 The striker wedge must be free there is a weeny spring that helps it slide/return, they are not available as replacements If ones failed its a sh unit or fit diy concoction of your own This simple wedge stops the latch from lifting over the striker with body movements by taking out any clearance But belt and braces all proper convertibles have the hasp and tongue as shown earlier. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: The striker wedge must be free there is a weeny spring that helps it slide/return, they are not available as replacements If ones failed its a sh unit or fit diy concoction of your own This simple wedge stops the latch from lifting over the striker with body movements by taking out any clearance But belt and braces all proper convertibles have the hasp and tongue as shown earlier. Pete Pete I have often wondered what the slider does, all I knew was that if it was not free to move, the door could open going around corners! When Heralds were new did you have to slam the door shut to make them close or is it old age (sagging body shells) and misaligned door/bodies? I guess I need to go to the TSSC offices and play with the cars in the display..... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Mike, i had a1959 948 herald in 1966 I dont remember having to slam the doors but if I had the body would have left the chassis It was all as rotten as possible managed to keep it rolling till 68 and sold it for £65 still cant remember how the doors shut Try the showroom cars is good idea but they might be suffering lack of use symptons , bit too far away to dash up and try some Many hard to shut are down to having been sold the wrong section door seal Its a flip seal not a balloon , Best place for a selection of designs is c o baines , who make all these type of seals (There are others) https://coh-baines.co.uk Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Thanks all... I have adjusted the striker plate to its limit. I can feel wear on the surface and wonder if it has just worn to a point where it doesn't quite meet the latch mechanism with enough force. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: Many hard to shut are down to having been sold the wrong section door seal Its a flip seal not a balloon , Just a simple flap seal, how I miss Rarebits4classics for excellent stuff like that. Thankfully I bought a roll of the stuff from Bill for my 1200 that I haven't used yet, so can fall back on that. Round or oval seal won't allow the doors to close properly. One question Dave - is it a genuine factory convertible or a saloon conversion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 if the door gaps are a tad too wide the latch can miss the striker completely !! pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 In answer to question it is a genuine convertible. I may be being very dumb... but what is the slider and the wedge that have been mentioned .... I have manually tested the peg and I am pretty sure that it is behaving correctly. Bit of resistance and then snaps down with a satisfying clunk. Use of button then raises it back up. Could it be as simple as a worn striker plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 The slider is on the aluminium part on the B post. At the bottom. It is supposed to easily slide, and takes up any play. A few squirts of WD40 and poking it with a screwdriver should get it moving easily, then a bit of oil every now and again. But you haven't answered about teh anti burst catches. Without them the door gaps can open up (alarmingly so) if they are not fitted. You may also need to adjust door hinges to more the door back a little, or indeed up/down. It is useful to watch the doorgaps as you (actually an assistant is better/safer) drive around and see what is happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 5 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: Mike, i had a1959 948 herald in 1966 I dont remember having to slam the doors but if I had the body would have left the chassis It was all as rotten as possible managed to keep it rolling till 68 and sold it for £65 still cant remember how the doors shut Try the showroom cars is good idea but they might be suffering lack of use symptons , bit too far away to dash up and try some Many hard to shut are down to having been sold the wrong section door seal Its a flip seal not a balloon , Best place for a selection of designs is c o baines , who make all these type of seals (There are others) https://coh-baines.co.uk Pete Hi Pete, this is what I’ve got on my Vitesse. Would this explain having to slam the door to shut ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 The preferred / original type was a single rubber flap, along the lines of the one in the photo below. Some of the versions of the tubular / round type are too thick, and won't allow the door to close sufficiently tightly, so that either the door sits proud of the bodywork, or else won't engage the locks at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Sorry not to answer... yes I have got the anti burst catches! 😀👍 i have found the slider frees it off and put some moly slip grease on it... seems fine with a good spring return . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 36 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: The preferred / original type was a single rubber flap, along the lines of the one in the photo below. Some of the versions of the tubular / round type are too thick, and won't allow the door to close sufficiently tightly, so that either the door sits proud of the bodywork, or else won't engage the locks at all. Sounds like what I have. Can the one above still be purchased ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Seems so, that photo was taken off the net a few minutes before my post. I tried a Bing search for 'flap seal rubber door trim' and got dozens of results. A firm called East Kent Trim Supplies seems to stock for the Herald - see profile 134 at the bottom right. http://www.classiccar-trim.com/phdi/p1.nsf/supppages/eastkent?opendocument&part=4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Sorry not to answer... yes I have got the anti burst catches! 😀👍 i have found the slider frees it off and put some moly slip grease on it... seems fine with a good spring return . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark powell Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Got my seal from Baines. No problems with closing and a good seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 33 minutes ago, Tipidave said: Sorry not to answer... yes I have got the anti burst catches! 😀👍 i have found the slider frees it off and put some moly slip grease on it... seems fine with a good spring return . The catch of the antiburst (ie not the hook part) should also slide easily. Again check/lubricate. And check it engages!(seen one recently that doesn't, and needs "something" doing as the hook is tilted on the doorframe) I have also had to put packig behind the catch part on the bpost if the doors would not adjust enough. Some pictures may help (but tricky to show the "almost engaged" position) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Ah ok ...I didn't realise that ther were any moving parts in the anti burst fitting... I will investigate next time I am up with the car thanks😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 When i first ran into bubble seal problems I first did a bodge, ie ran a stanley blade to slit one side of the bubble Its not easy to cut it neatly but makes a great difference to door slamming Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 31 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: When i first ran into bubble seal problems I first did a bodge, ie ran a stanley blade to slit one side of the bubble Its not easy to cut it neatly but makes a great difference to door slamming Pete Hi Pete , good idea . I’m going to remove the seal initially to see if the “bubble” is causing the problem Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 18 hours ago, clive said: I have also had to put packig behind the catch part on the bpost if the doors would not adjust enough. Some pictures may help (but tricky to show the "almost engaged" position) I don't think anyone's Herald will ever be as bad as one of mine from a few years back.... now THAT'S what I call packing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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