iana Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 Just working through the various bits and pieces and I was checking the hoses etc, the clearance between the alternator and the hose is minimal as attached photo - the hose has a small amount of damage where it had been clipped - any ideas / suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted March 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 This is my temporary solution or is this unnecessary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 Your alternator is fitted with a GT6 adjuster bar. My Vitesse was converted to alternator using the late Spitfire setup and does not suffer that problem. You can get the bracket from the usual suppliers but note that you'll also need a shorter fan belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 Id be tempted just to cut off the end inch of the adjuster bar and maybe put a matching washer under the nut of the alternator bolt..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted March 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 It’s the alternator fan that’s clipped the hose, the clearance is only a couple of mm, I’m going to check nonmembers solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 Johny got there before me! NM has the reason why, but before flashing the cash I would saw an inch off the end of the bracket. A bit bodgey maybe or bend it a right angles would make it look more like "it's supposed to be like that!" Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 I converted my Vit with a Mk4 Spitfire alternator mount and adjuster bracket, as Non-member says. Using both items will move the Alternator closer to the cylinder head. Clearance to alternator fan is still quite close, but much better than your existing set up. Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 The other option is to get a length of universal coolant hose and cut that a few cm longer than the original in the photo; less expensive and less faff. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 4 minutes ago, iana said: It’s the alternator fan that’s clipped the hose My alternator fan has a cover, original fitting I think, probably unobtainable now. db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 Fan cover made from a bit of stainless, distance between alternator adjusting bolt and other end attachment 140 mm fan belt marked 6224MC (AVX10 X 1100). Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 and rotate the top hose this will raise some more clearance i used the orig dynamo block with a tail spacer and a 85 amp lucas alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted March 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 Thanks all, plenty of ideas to help me solve the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 Looks like the wrong adjusting bracket to me. It should be the same type as used on the Mk2 2000 Saloon. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted March 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 now that looks like the right shaped bracket, need to sort it out as its a problem just waiting to bite, new bracket, top hose and fan belt required Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 Whatever you do the rear mounting lug has a slide spacer which allows for the case expansions, needs to be equi either side of the lug There are some hight temperature changes in alternators and the rear lug will fracture if its mounted solid with no room to self position The split bush you see in daves pics is quite a tight fit but does allow the lug to move Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted March 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 Pete, not sure I understand what you mean but the lower mount is (apologies for the photo) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 As contact with the fan is the problem I go with Pete's suggestion of rotaing the top hose. Loosen the clip on the thermostat housing and twist the hose round on the exit pipe and its middle should rise or lower depending on rotation direction.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 The smaller diameter tube/bush at the rear is the part im talking about , its normally a light press fit and goes right through the rear mounting lug so when all nipped up you should see some of this bush protruding each side of the rear lug with the bolt through clamping onto the bush not the lug Thus as the case heats and expands the rear lug can move up and down the bush, This idea was introduced on alternators with 3 mounting lugs way back in the late 60s /70s without some allowed movement the lugs will soon break If that makes any sense without a picture Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 The long term solution is to fit the correct mounting and adjusting brackets. These were available from a number of the spares suppliers. The mounting bracket (Block) was fitted to the Mk2 2000/2500 Saloon, TR6 ,Spitfire Mk4/1500, Toledo and Dolomite 1300/1500. The adjusting bracket was fitted to the Mk2 2000/2500 Saloon and TR6. There was the GT6 Mk2/3 mounting and adjusting brackets which mount the alternator in a lower position, but are now very rare and difficult to find. The brackets you have are for the original dynamo set-up hence the clearance problems. In the sort term shorten the adjusting bracket and fit a smaller diameter fan belt. I did an article in the Courier in Feb 2004 on the conversion to an alternator. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Agree with the above, I used a dolomite 1500 engine bracket and originally just shortened the adjuster by drilling a new hole for the engine fixing bolt and cut of the excess. I have one of the GT6 alternator mounting brackets but it is not needed for the Vitesse. Regards Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Looking at Ianas picture it seems a seat belt mounting spacer has been used at the rear mounting, just wondering if this allows for movement as mentioned in Peter's post. Other people bodge I use creative solutions. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 this shows the 'slip 'bush in the rear lug, at the end of the day providing the front standoff aligns the pullies, and there is either seperate bolts for front and rear or along bolt and a spacer, all with the slip bush, with it equally positioned and the adjuster strap is formed to clear the hose i cant see what you use makes any realistic problem, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted March 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 I’m off into the garage shortly to investigate how it’s been fixed and I can then order any parts I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted March 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Ok after taking the bottom mount apart, it has got the slip tube, and the spacer (I think you were right Paul - it’s a seat belt spacer!) My plan now is to shorten the top bracket and get a new fan belt - I’ll pick up the correct bits when I next order stuff and fit them over winter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 Ian My recent experience with fan belts has taught me that not all belts are equal. I tried a couple of AVX10 belts (made by PIX) and had delamination failure of the outer edge of the belt. I found after some research that there are actually 'V belts and 'wide V belts' (I don't recall the angles) and what was happening is that the narrow V belt is sitting too low in the pulley and stressing the outer edge. I have now fitted a GCB belt and it has solved the problem. Length will need to suit your application and it can be a bit trial end error. Photo of the failed AVX10 belt alongside a Unipart original. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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