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Coolant Leak from Cylinder Head Stud!


Cavaciuti@aol.com

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Hi,

Back in Jan I bought a GT6 Mk3 with a 2500pi engine (on twin Strombergs), & since found it's got a Vitesse g/box, so a real 'bitsa'.

Have stripped & rebuilt engine with new head gasket, but when I fired it up this afternoon there is blue coolant leaking up one of the Cylinder Head studs & through the nut thread. Only 1 stud seems to be leaking - back of engine, drivers side (above the starter motor). Tried re-tightening nut, but it's still leaking.

Has anyone seen this before? Struggling to think how it could happen or how to fix, so any advice gratefully received.

Cheers, Simon.

20190605_160847.jpg

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Pic not clear, but is that a glistening meniscus of leakage on top of the rearmost head nut?

Sorry, I just don't believe that anything can leak up the thread.  Hang on.  Sometimes, head studs will have a vertical slot cut in the thread at one end.  This is to ensure that the stud, going down into the blind ending hole in the block does not pressurise.  The slot allows air or fluid to escape.   Have you installed the studs upside down?

John

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My new studs didn't have a slot, the pressure would at some point have to make it's way up the stud thread, why would they need a slot? Besides which water is getting in at gasket level, not below. If it is coolant you have a gasket leak, sorry.

Doug

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As john says studs should have the slot down the thread to release any oil coolant held down the threads or  you can blow the block screwing them into their threaded holes.

im not aware any block holes are through to the water jacket as such coolant up the stud and out thought the nut threads has to be a hole in the head leaking into the stud hole or the new gasket is having a problem.

is their any history in the cooling head leaks  etc.

 

pete

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That meniscus on rear-most nut is indeed the leaky stud. Only picked car up in Jan, & started work straight away, so unsure on if it was leaking before. Studs definitely aren't slotted.

Was hoping not to have to get head off again, but doesn't take too long so ...

Many thanks for the replies - all appreciated.

Simon.

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Done some reading, which I should have done before saying it was impossible, and I'm wrong.     Hydraulic fittings typically leak along the threads, so although they leak from thousands of PSI and the coolant pressure may be a few tens, it is possible.     But a leak will occur up the outside of the stud, so if the fit between the threads is not as close as that between head top face and nut, or nut and washer, then it might come out of the top.

But the coolant has to get to the stud and stud hole, and only an abnormal communication as Pete describes can account for it.    If there is a slot in the therads at the top of the stud,  then reversing it to correct its position mught be possible, otherwise, it's head off and investigate.

JOhn

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If the studs go into the block (they do) then somewhere the bottoms of the stud must be below the waterline.

If there is a crack or corrosion pit going through the block into the stud hole then it will eventually leak.

So it could be the bottom of the stud.  It could be the head gasket. There is also coolant in the head. So there may be a crack in the head.

You could take a chance and use a sealant like K seal to get you through the summer. Or simply take it all apart.

 

Roger

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10 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

As john says studs should have the slot down the thread to release any oil coolant held down the threads or  you can blow the block screwing them into their threaded holes.

I've never seen a vertically slotted stud and I've done a few head gaskets, old minis used to eat them!

7 minutes ago, JohnD said:

only an abnormal communication as Pete describes can account for it

Again old minis, blown head gasket, coolant bubbling up the stud quite common.

Doug

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HG is the simplest cause, 

I think the  worst is a a bit on the wild side of simple

All my triumpf studs are slotted , , bear in mind there is more hydraulic risk whacking them in with powered  stud box than a slow twiddle with two nuts,  so on production more troubles if the block wash filled the holes but there have been examples of blown block i think on the lost forum    where the forces have blown the top face out , as would serious over tightening 

I think Kseal or Barrs leak would be worth a try,  they do work and are not a bodge (we fitted a Barrs to every truck for years to solve 

any early life seapage)

Pete

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I had this many years ago on a car (i cant remember what car) and as the customer did not have a lot of money, i took the nut and washer off and put hylomar over the threads nut and washer (loads of it) and the re torqued it and removed excess........ Result? No more leaks and it never leaked again.... Maybe worth a try??

Tony.

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nowt unusual here really

that stud is near a water jacket hole

prob due t,rust or age related wear,n tear, loss of torque ont nut

water under pressure has found its way t,the stud.

 

whats worry,n  t,me is that that stud could noo be stuck solid in the head

cos of the rust on stud an head.

 

If yer no that bothered, loctite the nut an washer in spot

if like me worried, then try an take stud oot, see if its free

 

If it comes oot, fine, clean up, re insert and loctite nut an wesher in spot

if it wont budge, then ye got probs when heed needs t,come off,

as lots of cyl heeds wont come off at all, even hang,n weight oft car on them

and some serious wacks with a BFCH  !!

 

M

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I echo Marcus way back I had a mk1 2000saloon   jacked the head till  car was airbourne and they dont shift

Eventually with small gap cut the  one stud holding with cornflake packet round a hacksaw blade cut through the remaining stud 

Off with the head, the stud remains  unscrewed with fingers the part in the head needed a sledge hammer to punch it out

And  the advantage  it would never have leaked   Ha ?!!!,  the head  was blown between 3 and 4  

Happy days 

Pete

 

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...but, is the quality of the steel in the new studs as good as the worn studs that come out. Are you putting in new cr@p in place of worn but probably better metal?  These and other similar questions will never be satisfactorily answered and carry on the discussion of 'rubbish new parts'.

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