iana Posted June 27, 2019 Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 We were on our way to an area camping weekend, the car was finally running well. we got to about 10 mile from home and there was a burning smell in the car, this smell came from the flasher unit. Tried a borrowed spare and that started getting hot so remove it pronto. Came to start the car, it started but sounded wrong (like a near flat battery) Once started it ran well enough. All ideas of where to start welcomed (I will order a new flasher unit asap) The issue happen of when indicating left so I will check for obvious earthing issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted June 27, 2019 Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 Did the indicators work when this was happening? If not i would suspect one of the indicator lives on the left side is touching an earth. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted June 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 The indicators had been working fine, I came to turn left, indicated and there was a burning smell and the indicators stopped working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 Look for stray popped out snap connectors under the dash where the column harness joins , one may be shorted to earth It wont be the flash unit its short somewhere after that down stream Column connections are a common cause Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted June 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 Struggling with enthusiasm to do anything on the car today, I put it in the garage yesterday and just shut the door. I’ll check the column area as I did fit a new radio last week so may have disturbed the wiring in that area, I think whatever the fault is it’s caused the flasher relay to burn out, it was really hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 Yes a short will just overload the heating element no more tic toc , dont know about electronic ones Come get in there get the smile back Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 As Pete said, the column connections are a good place to start. You don't say what car but the wiring down the column on the Herald family is very tight and easily disturbed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 1 hour ago, NonMember said: and easily disturbed. A bit like the rest of us with an electrical fault... Tony. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted June 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 I’m off into the garage to try and find the problem, is there anything I can do to check the indicators whilst waiting for the relay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 If you bypass ie remove unit and link between you will get permanent non flash flashers If add a bulb and fuse into this you can see if the bulb lights you have a short and saves melting the harness Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted June 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 Pete, done that with a 10a fuse and it remained intact and the wires didn’t get warm and the lights illuminated. Not tried it with the ignition running but would that make any difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 dont think so if its got a short its a short if it hasnt ....it hasnt not come across a unit thats got a short but its all very possible good luck with the new unit Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted June 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 Well, I’m completely baffled, the spare borrowed unit I tried on Thursday that started to get warm, worked absolutely fine today, only thing I can think is did I connect the wires properly. So I’m hoping the issue is a defective flasher unit. I will order a couple of spares plus the one I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 there are wide range of units al marked up with loading, some with repeater flashers will be marked 2x21 +5w some just 2x21w and so on , so the unit matches the usage wattage and the smaller 4FL 5FL 7FL all for different wattages nothing is simple then throw in the ones marked for LED very different Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted July 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 I’m off up country on Thursday so will call into Fitchetts and get a replacement flasher relay and a spare, however I started to possibly over concern myself with not finding a fault (it could have been a faulty flasher that just fried it’s self due to age) and wondered if I put a second much lower rated fuse on the live feed would that safe guard the flasher unit? Also what amperage fuse would be require 10a? Or lower? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 2, 2019 Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 I'd have thought a 10A fuse should work for the indicator circuit. You could probably get away with 5A but it's slightly marginal. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted July 2, 2019 Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 The 21 Watts per indicator bulb plus 2.2 watts for the dash bulb is for the running current. You have to allow for the instantaneous current when the voltage is first applied as the bulbs have a much lower resistance until the filaments warm up. An Anti-surge fuse is the answer, however these are not available for vehicle fuse boxes. Therefore you have to go for a higher rating. 21+21+2.2 Watts = 44.2Watts. W/V 44.2/12 =3.7 Amps. 3.7 Amps is the running current. As Rob said 5 Amp is slightly marginal, this is due to the instantaneous start up current. I would use a 7 or 10 Amp fuse. Dave 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted July 5, 2019 Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 Just a quick question as my indicators work but I get a very poor or no tick tock from the flasher unit. Is there only one flasher unit controlling front and rear. Ie the one under dash area ? ok another question 😂 I’m I right in saying I can use a LED compatible unit with my current standard bulbs. Thinking of upgrading to LED bulbs at a later date. Thanks Grant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 5, 2019 Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 Just the one unit in mine, I put a cheap 12v buzzer (from Maplins - remember them) across the contacts of the dashboard bulb to augment the 'tick tock'. Not the best method but it works. As for indicator leds,not tried those yet, but I think there are some problems with the led energising times. One of us will know properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 5, 2019 Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 My GT6 has no perceptible tick-tock at all since I fitted the current flasher. It's the wrong shape for the clip, so it just hangs loose. They're actually supposed to use the dash* as a sounding board and won't be audible if not clipped in place properly. * or the bulkhead if fitted on there, which I think early Spitfires are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted July 5, 2019 Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 I am sure the audible system was only there for when partially sighted people were driving? Or was it BMW drivers? cant remember which........ Tony. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted July 5, 2019 Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 Don't motorbike flasher units make a noise? Re led flasher units, some are suitable for up to 20a or something, so won't worry about being used on filament bulbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 5, 2019 Report Share Posted July 5, 2019 Theres lots of very cheap sounders on ebay, often for m cycles but simple to just wire into the boot And very audible Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted July 6, 2019 Report Share Posted July 6, 2019 Thanks. So LED compatible ones just check it will take the amps of standard bulbs. Grant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted July 8, 2019 Report Share Posted July 8, 2019 On 6 July 2019 at 12:10, Blitz said: Thanks. So LED compatible ones just check it will take the amps of standard bulbs. Grant The Club Shop one is compatible with both types of bulbs. Gully 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now