Mjit Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 Hi, Is there anyone from 'back in the day' who can remember how glossy or not the wood dash finish was when our cars were new? I'm in the process of revaneering my '70s 2000 and Spitfire wood and unsure where in the cloudy matt to mirror gloss spectrum it should be. Or was cloudy, yellow, and pealing how they left the factory? 😁 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 I don't believe they were high gloss, as many have today; for one thing, the headlights of cars driving behind reflect very brightly and can be annoying. It's probably a cop-out of an answer to say they were closer to a matt finish than any kind of gloss, but that's how I picture them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 My mk2 2000 is a satin sort of half matt /shine Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad4classics Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 37 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: My mk2 2000 is a satin sort of half matt /shine Pete I think Pete is about right with where the finish should be. I used a full gloss yacht varnish with high UV resistance; only snag is it took ages to dry between coats. Gloss varnishes are clear as opposed to satin / matt which contain clouding agents. To obtain the sheen you want, use wet and dry / fine wire wool to rub out the gloss to get the sheen you desire. End result is a clear satin finish. https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/rubbing-great-finish-satin-gloss/ David 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted June 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 A semi-matt/semi-glass was what I'd assumed - but it's BL in the 70s we're talking about, so quite possible what it was MEANT to look like wasn't even the same as what it did look like by the time the new car got to the dealership 😁 Thanks for that link Mad4classics - I'm using Rustins Plastic Coating (based on an big saloon Courier article from 2012) and while I found lots of info online about getting a high gloss finish I struggled to find much beyond "Use steel wool for a matt or satin finish.". 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 Sugar soap. The original finish changed from gloss (60s) to satin-matt (70s) but I couldn't tell you when. My brother used to build electric bass guitars. He used Rustins Plastic Coating to finish them. If he didn't want a high gloss finish, he would then rub it down with sugar soap on a moist cloth. It's less harsh that steel wool so you get more control of the finish. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad4classics Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 Rustins do steel wool right down to gauge 0000+ ; I find that too fine for a dashboard and stick to gauge 0000 which is still like gossamer . Any fine abbrassive to dull and flat the surface evenly to the you finish you need will do. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted June 29, 2019 Report Share Posted June 29, 2019 The idea behind the satin/matt finish was safety i.e. A non-reflective surface, this is why the dials also went to black rims from chrome. The TR5 was the first in 1967. The Mk2 GT6 and TR6 in 1968. Then the Mk2 2000/2500 in 1969. Then the 1500 FWD, Toledo and Stag in 1970. Followed by Dolomite 1850 in 1972 and Spit IV (at FH 50,000) in late 1972. The Sprint in 1973. The TR7/8 has non-reflective plastic. Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted June 30, 2019 Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 If you have a 2000 a bit of the rear woodwork is tight up against the seat so the coating isn't usually preserved in reasonably good condition. it is certainly a right pig to remove that bit of varnish as it always seems stuck like shit to a shovel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted June 30, 2019 Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 I know it wasn't original but I wax polished mine. A nice balance between satin and polished finished. Certainly will never peel! 🤣 Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted June 30, 2019 Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 (edited) Well. I think, unless you have a more prestigious model that you want to keep it's value higher, ongoing, then do the finish you like. I did the Vitesse woodwork a few years ago. I have done a lot of painting and decorating, so quite used getting a good finish, though I also wanted it to be a low intensive labour job. So Carefully prepped down to the original laminate. Then about 4 thickish coates of general oil based (non milky, tougher, in my experience) varnish (I had some satin finish at the time), not rubbed down in between coats, left to go hard for a few weeks. Then gently rubbed down with fine grade wet and dry, until the finish I liked (a mid sheen, without using polish). To me it looks a good finish and I've been asked where i had it done !. Has survived well and seems a toughish finish, as doesn't scratch easily (not been subjected to leaks/damp/much UV light, as most of our cars maybe aren't). Just some thoughts. Dave Edited June 30, 2019 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 30, 2019 Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 I think that I used Danish Oil on my dash after I had veneered it followed by simple wax polish like Aidan used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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