The embarrassing Herald restoration thread - now the fiddly bits

[Colin Lindsay]

...and the amazing thing is: SHE RUNS!! No faffing about, just prime the pump and turn the key!! I'll update later in full but for now.... back to play!

 

 

[Badwolf]

Ohhh..well done.

[Colin Lindsay]

Oh Lord what a day, but it seems to have ended up very well. Totally knackered and on my second beer (International tonight, Moretti followed by Mythos) but things seem to have gone ok.

After a lot of running about this morning after totally non-Triumph related thingies finally got to the garage about 2pm, glued a few trim pieces on then enlisted 'Er Indoors to help bleed brakes and clutch. How can something so simple cause so much bother? Just press the pedal. Press down when I say, let it out when I say. How difficult can that be?

No bubbles in the line, nor fluid. "Are you pressing down?" "Yes" "You sure?" "Yes." "All the way down?" "Well my legs won't reach right to the end..."

No front seats yet so she's lying on an old quilt over the carpets as it's 'cold' in my garage.

"Are you pressing down?" "Yes" "You sure?" "Yes." "All the way down?" "Yes."

I looked over the door and she's surfing her phone with no feet anywhere near the pedals. "Sorry, I took a break."

I got the job done eventually; clutch pedal rock solid - in fact so solid it wouldn't move at all. I had to use severe force after which there was a loud crack and it moved normally. I think the carrier was stuck on the input shaft, and is now freed up. The brakes are ok.... just ok... but I need to adjust the rears and fine tune things, although I did find a weeping connection above the diff that I tightened up.

After she escaped back to afternoon TV I took the plunge and decided on a startup. Oil and water ok, no errant sparks, pumped the fuel into the pump, spark plugs out and cranked over to get the oil pressure built up. All ok so far so plugs back in and ready for the startup. Camera in hand, turn the key and the video says it all. Apologies for the huge video but while I could adjust the size of the file, I couldn't adjust the size of the picture and believe me I did try. That's running with no tuning, no timing or other adjustments, a tad fast idle but steady.

What it didn't show was the stream of petrol from the bottom of the carb, a line of neat fuel running straight out. 

That was coming from the jet housing; off with the carb, jet removed, new O ring and back on - success.

Ran the system again, checked temperature - the gauge is working anyway. Bled a few airlocks, spotted three distinct drips of water - one is the block drain tap, needs tightened, one is possibly a core plug up under the manifold, and the other is somewhere round the waterpump housing and cannot be located. I'm hoping they'll maybe settle down once warmed up a few times.

The brake lights are now intermittent - possibly the pedal switch yet bypassing it yesterday made no difference. All else seems to be working, so I'll call it a night for now, and maybe take a break tomorrow - that leaves me five full days for gearbox tunnel, carpets, seats and other little trim parts. Provided those water leaks don't become any worse.

[Pete Lewis]

at last your are getting there  ....where ever that is   ??

good going 

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

Well tomorrow is the deadline I had for having the Herald back on the road and driving, but it's not to be. I'm soooo close but decided I was cutting corners to meet the timeline, and it was a week of eight - at least - hour days in the garage, among all the other 'normal' things that go on daily - and it was killing me. When it becomes a chore it's time to take a break.

What held me back? Online orders that took eight weeks to arrive and were still incomplete, unable to obtain the correct size of bolts and screws locally, gearbox tunnel seals refusing to stick, and the curious incident of the bulkhead cut-out in the night time.

I've already posted that this is a 1969 13/60 but has some amazingly early features, probably due to odd parts being used up at the factory. The detachable heater panel was one, and when it came time to fit the refurbished gearbox tunnel I found another. In earlier cars, the tunnel cutout on the bulkhead goes almost straight down. In later cars, it zigzags out to the driver's side, probably to accommodate the starter motor in the Vitesse version of the bulkhead, which is on the opposite side from the Herald. Early on left below, later on right - the bit to the right of the speedo cable.

  

This means that unless I had an early tunnel cover - which I didn't - the tunnel cover for the later car would have a substantial gap in this area, around two inches, and all the road dirt and water of the day will simply pour into my footwells - not to mention the breeze, of course. When this car was dismantled the original tunnel cover seems to have been simply pushed inwards, which may explain the woeful state of the carpets.

After some mulling about with various ideas, everything from plastic to metal sheets, I decided the easiest option was to replicate the later bulkhead profile with wood. I just shaped and contoured a wooden block to match the floorpan profile in the later car, which would fit flush to the existing metal to permit a good seal. Glued in place, sealed with fibreglass resin, and the tunnel cover fitted perfectly. It's invisible from the inside, especially with the underfelt and carpets over it, but from underneath it's not too glaring either.

                                                                                      

I'm happy enough with that, as a speedy long term solution... A bit of Waxoyl round it and it'll last for a few years.

It did sadly hold me back an entire day, but I couldn't progress without that being done. I had put off working on that area as trim panels hadn't arrived, so by the time I realised that there was a problem, time was already short. Once the former was in place and the tunnel sealed to it I was able to continue with the soundproofing and cut underfelt to size -  I've been hoarding two rolls of the stuff since Stoneleigh in about 2003, so it finally found a use.

                                                                                       

I'm pleased to say that the carpets from Coverdale have proved a good fit, plus a good colour. If anything they're a bit generous, so the sides along the doors will have to be trimmed back, but better too much than too little.

                                                                                        

Their attention to detail is excellent; that little silvery circle you can see just above the clutch pedal is actually a cutout for the steering column, so the carpets really do go that far up into the bulkhead. I'll have to work out how to keep them up there, and stop them sliding back down again. I also took time off to work on the hood area; I had bought a full set of poppers with the hood bag but they've vanished into the ether somewhere (hopefully not thrown out with the packaging!!) so ended up having to buy another set. 

The problem with these is that they're always an odd size, and nothing ever seems to fit. An M3 countersunk setscrew fits, but it's slightly small, and the head has to be completely flat otherwise the top popper won't fit and simply jumps off. An M3.5 self tapper works, but they're hard to find. On poppers where there was no easy access to the area behind, for a nut, I used thin rivets - some worked, some pulled straight out. I really need M3.5 setscrews with 3.5 nuts but no-one seems to sell these, and I wasted two mornings on fruitless traipsing about from Motor Factors to Hardware trying to obtain some. The screws I was able to get - M3 setscrews - are an excellent fit but not long enough on 50% of the fittings, especially where they are required to go through trim, hood and bodywork. I've ordered some in 20mm length but they'll arrive next week.

Two very long nights were wasted in rewiring the headlamps. This is a converted Herald, and the four-headlamp conversion was obtained in the simplest and crudest way possible - shave the sheath off the wire, twist another round it, and wrap both in insulating tape. Repeat for all four lamps and both sidelights. I used dozens of bullet connectors and all my solder repairing the damage, not helped when one of the actual bulb connectors failed internally. Thankfully I had a spare and on it went, but that was more delay. I've got no headlamp flash but I suspect the column switch.

The front of the car is looking very well, that grille cleaned up nicely but the bonnet still needs aligned properly, the overriders won't fit - the valence will have to be loosened off - and I fitted both bonnet support arms back to front, then wondered why it wouldn't close.

So: sadly, last night, after lying upside down in the footwell fitting assorted parts, I came in with sore ribs, sore back, sore neck, hands cut to ribbons on sharp metal, and realised that with carpets, seats, hood bag and overriders still to fit, it wouldn't be on the road by tomorrow. I want to do things properly. Even waiting for the glue for the carpet edges to set takes time, and I don't want to rush things only to find that something has been missed, especially when I'm actually on the open road. Apart from which there's no accelerator at present anyway.

I'm also hoping I haven't committed the cardinal sin of fitting a replacement gearbox completely untested, then find out once everything has been beautifully built in that it all needs to come out again. If it does... well I'll throw a cover over it and go back to working on the estate.

[Pete Lewis]

Colin    it does sound like you need a well deserved rest 

its amazing what happens when you un ravel the bugs of previous owners 

both you and Pete(BFG) have uncovered years of misguided antics 

every page you turn has a headache attached 

but .....One day   the smile will  re appear 

Pete

[Chris A]

Take a day off, or at least a couple of hours, and go for a drive you know how much better you'll feel after.

[Colin Lindsay]

I intend to, guys! The local TSSC are descending on my house and garage tomorrow for tea buns and servicing of cars, then a short run, so I had too much grass to cut and too many windows to wash (she made me do it) in order to make the house presentable - not enough hours in the day. I sneaked out today half a dozen times today and did small jobs but otherwise I'll slacken off for a bit.

Pressure off, and as if to prove it - I found the bag of hood poppers.

[Chris A]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

found the bag of hood poppers.

There you go a successful day after all 👏

[Dick Twitchen]

13 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

so the carpets really do go that far up into the bulkhead. I'll have to work out how to keep them up there, and stop them sliding back down again.

Colin, 

I used 'velcro',  glued rather than relying on some self adhesive backing,  and it has lasted 15 years so far.

Dick

[Pete Lewis]

my 64   had weld tags and small brackets for trim buttons 

Pete

[Badwolf]

Colin - Take a break, you deserve it. As for holding the caret secure, I have tried all things on the vertical panels. Heavy duty velcro (ok on the metal it came away from the carpet), spray adhesive (limited time before it came off), sticks like sh!t (it didn't). In the end I fitted a couple of extra carpet poppers. Riveted through the carpet with the other piece screwed down to the floor with a self tapper. I found it dangerous when the carpet came away and started to foul the pedals (in my case) when driving, so it ended up as a must do, job.

 

[Colin Lindsay]

I do have Velcro, the other half bought me a roll for a Christmas stocking filler some years back and it's never been used, so might be worth a try. The original carpet and soundproofing was tied in place with shoe laces and self-tappers. There's a lot of it to secure up behind the pedals, the Coverdale cut is very generous, so I'll need something substantial as there's a lot to slip back down again. The soundproofing brackets on the bulkhead have been fitted with spire clips so the self-tapper idea appeals.

[Badwolf]

I tried the 2" wide heavy duty stuff. I found that the problem with Velcro is that in use the carpet stretches, flexes etc as you would expect in the high work area of a footwell. This breaks the seal of the glue, it gets dust and grub and it looses adhesion. If you do go down the velcro route, best to stitch it onto the carpet with nylon thread, using a bodkin or similar. Yes, get a thimble, a pair of pliers and gardening gloves you will need them.

 

[Bfg]

On 08/04/2022 at 21:13, Colin Lindsay said:

I also connected the brake light switch and the overdrive wiring, although while that is connected to the column switch, a power source has yet to be confirmed. Possibly the spare terminal on the ignition switch? It's just a simple circuit of power to column switch to interrupter switch to solenoid to earth so not too difficult.

Just a little point but, on my TR, there are two 'spare' terminals that may be convenient. The power to the overdrive relay on my car was plugged into one.  However..,  I note those terminals are live and unfused, and also live when the ignition is off when the key is turned back.  Those are useful for things like the radio, cigarette lighter, etc., which can then be used when parked, ie., without the coil (and all other circuits) being energised. 

As I didn't want the O/D relay to be live when parked, I've now taken its power from the fuse box (..which in practice / for convenience, meant a connection onto the heater fan's switch) so it ..the solenoid relay, is now both fused and only powered when the ignition is switched to drive mode.

Pete. 

 

[Colin Lindsay]

4 hours ago, Bfg said:

Just a little point but, on my TR, there are two 'spare' terminals that may be convenient. The power to the overdrive relay on my car was plugged into one.  However..,  I note those terminals are live and unfused, and also live when the ignition is off when the key is turned back.  Those are useful for things like the radio, cigarette lighter, etc., which can then be used when parked, ie., without the coil (and all other circuits) being energised. 

As I didn't want the O/D relay to be live when parked, I've now taken its power from the fuse box (..which in practice / for convenience, meant a connection onto the heater fan's switch) so it ..the solenoid relay, is now both fused and only powered when the ignition is switched to drive mode.

Pete. 

Interesting! I'm still researching that - sort of idle perusal at present, it's down the list a bit now - but I know that the 'Aux' terminal on the ignition switch, to use a modern term, could be used if the key was turned to the left rather than the right, presumably so that you could listen to the radio with the engine off. I had assumed that with the key in the 'removable' slot then all was turned off. If I use one of the terminals on the 'ignition on' section, then I had thought that with the engine turned off, the power here would be off too. This is where I'll take power from for the overdrive, even though there's little chance of the car being parked with the O/D switch engaged and in third or fourth gear so that current could still run. I don't have any fuses / fuse box to utilise!

[Colin Lindsay]

Recovering from a one-night break on the coast at present, not so much too much food and drink but if anything a surplus of sunshine which has given me a splitting sore head! I must remember to buy a hat for runs in the convertible. Things have been going swimmingly along, the club descended on me last Saturday for a garage day and amazingly after loads of gearbox and diff oiling, with handbrake cable greasing and one exhaust repair there was surprisingly little to clear up, so back to the 13/60 again quite quickly.

I was rushing things in the run up to the anticipated run afterwards, so just used the modern. This allowed a more leisurely fit of the interior. For some strange reason my super-duper fibreglass repaired and soundproofed gearbox tunnel cover would not fit - it just would not pull into place. I ended up using an original cardboard version which still has the original plastic-bag soundproofing in amazingly good condition. I used good self-adhesive foam as a seal and it slotted into place straightaway. My only concession to modernity was the use of larger metric self-tapping screws through the spire clips on the floor - I ran out of Imperial originals so had to press two into use. As I've previously mentioned the carpets are a great fit, only requiring slight trimming along the outer edges below the doors.

                                                                                  

 

This was in itself a bit nerve-wracking... it's one thing fitting a carpet, and another either melting holes through it for various fittings or else trimming the edges, just in case you find that it's not fitted as well as it should be, you smooth it out, and all that extra material at the edges suddenly disappears and leaves you with a very visible gap. Especially with white paint!

It was a case of measure a dozen times then take a deep breath and a razor blade. It's also much easier if the outer edges of the carpet are glued to the floorpan first. This done, and allowed to set properly, the tension in the carpet makes for a clean cut along the edge. Now trimmed, and the cleaned carpet strip fitted along the outer edge once again.

                                                                                   

Next step is fitting the seat brackets. I'm fitting through two layers of carpet at the front plus underseal, so it's important that nothing moves around once the actual hole is made. The floors on this car have been replaced so there's no captive nuts, just holes in the floorpans.

It was easiest to work from underneath the car up through the hole in the floorpan, so car up on lift and a red-hot metal spike pushed up through and wiggled about a bit. This worked but there was a substantial amount of smoke coming out of the car, and that lift takes an age to drop especially when you're holding your breath and waiting for the flames... hole located, cleaned out, then the seat bracket and spacer settled into place and a long bolt through the floorpan with penny washer and nut underneath. Once the first one is fitted then line up the bracket and go for the second. I must admit to feeling pretty smug when I lined up the seat rails by eye, set the spacer underneath, then went back under and pushed the hot spike up through to find that it went through underfelt and carpet to come up through the metal spacer. Spot on!

                                    

Same thing to the rear. Remember those horrible wooden wedges the PO had fitted to raise the seats? I made new ones from block rubber, glued to the floors, then the hole drilled up through from underneath. They won't compress but will be more durable than the wood, and certainly less likely to split. Again fitted with the metal spacers I had machined up a while back, and the rails are now secured, but raised above the carpet so that they slide as intended.

                                   

Once the carpets were secured by the seat rails they're ready for fitting to the footwells, as they are now fixed in one area and so won't move about as adjusted. The underfelt is already in place here so whilst waiting for glue to dry I tried a little bit of bling in the form of a period radio and console.

                                 

I fitted it roughly in place but then realised it was missing the side 'wings' so that the edges of the radio, and the gaps or wiring, were visible. The wings were originally cardboard, but very tatty. I managed to root out an old footwell millboard in suitably weathered black which had inches to spare; cut in two and shaped it was screwed to the speaker console. This looks original, slightly weathered, and does the job superbly. I'll attach it to the dashboard properly once all else in behind is finished.

I've also turned my attention to the hood and hoodbag poppers, many of which were unsightly with rust and incorrect screws.

                                 

It's taken a bit of trial and error to find out what will fit. The screw head needs to be countersunk, and flat across - not domed - otherwise the innards of the popper will prevent a proper fit and it will jump off again. The top part must be crimped, and crimped almost flat, to avoid hitting the head of the screw. I tried a few variations and found that where screws are required - such as along the wing top - a 3.5m self-tapping screw will do. Unfortunately I can't get 3.5 nuts for the setscrews. Eventually I found a solution by using an M3 allen-headed setscrew with M3 nuts; 20mm is enough to go through popper, trim, hood and bodywork. The head flares out sufficiently to keep the popper in place and amazingly I was able to fit the entire row and drop only one nut - they were balanced on a fingertip and pressed in place blind, by touch alone. Now things are looking much neater.

                                  

I've still got two to fit then I can start on the corresponding poppers on the hood bag. Finish the carpets, attach the accelerator, finish fitting the bonnet catches and align the bonnet... that's nearly it.

Next run is Saturday 30th. We might make it.

[Colin Lindsay]

Oh Lord end of another day, I'm going to crack open a small one and lament into my thread. No sign of having the car ready for this weekend's TSSC run, believe it or not an Easter Egg Hunt in the grounds of a stately home. At least I managed to find an Easter Egg, as they all seem to have disappeared from the shop shelves. Now I have to hide it again. There's logic in that, somewhere.

Hang on a sec...

Happy Days, just poured a short one so can relax and let it all drift by.

I will happily swear that I restored the engine, gearbox, suspension, brakes and diff in one tenth of the time the stupid little jobs have taken. Since the last update here I've managed to fit all of the hood poppers and get the hood bag in place so that it hides the hood frame. Looks good! I must admit that I'm glad I bought it from Newton Commercial as it's well made with plenty of room. The original black one was too tight, and strained too much so that the hood clips poked through it. you can see them on the corners, raising the material up into a point, so I'll reinforce things underneath to help it last a little longer. 

                                        

It sits up a little bit at the driver's side A post but might (hopefully) settle down as it ages. I had a spare set of convertible trims which I refitted - originally the car just had black vinyl wrapped round the hood well frame - and to pad out the area underneath (the little rectangles at the B-posts sit a bit high and slightly unevenly) I dug out an old favourite. Haven't seen or used this stuff in an age, but it's practically NOS for the Herald.

                                                                                          

Dum Dum is probably an offensive term these days so it'll go back on the shelf until next needed. Good stuff, though, replaces the original 'mastic' on Heralds, remains flexible and keeps water out, exactly as Nature and Triumph intended.

By now I should have had the carpets finished, but they were waiting on the footwell trims, which were waiting on the accelerator, which was waiting on the bonnet side catches to be fitted. I spent three days gapping the bonnet, bit by bit, lost some paint, it fouled on the passenger door, was too wide at the top, and every time I had it all nicely adjusted, once opened it reverted back to off-skew and poor gaps. It will NOT stay as adjusted, tonight included, and seems to twist sideways as it opens. This is how I left it earlier - gapped perfectly, then on opening, this:

 

It will not close any further and seems to creep back at the bottom of the passenger side, no matter how tight the links are tightened. I'll work on it again today but cannot work out what's wrong.

The passenger side bonnet catch was fitted tonight, then the side carpet trim. It too played silly beggars. I have six self tappers all standing by, but didn't mark the original holes before fitting the carpet and gluing it all down, so had to work with a pin - poke it into the carpet like a mine detector until it goes through the hole. First two, no problem. Third one.... pin goes through, screwdriver goes through, drill bit goes through.... self tapper... no. It just would not go in or grip the metal. Eventually I drilled the hole again, this time too big so it goes straight through without gripping. I actually managed to find a bigger self tapper with the same size of head and it eventually went in and stayed in. Next one along... same thing. I gave up and moved to the other side, where I started on the accelerator. I fitted a new spring and a new bracket, and screwed into the floor with a lot of difficulty. Little room, can't see the screw heads, can't get a socket in. Eventually took the pedal off the bracket, screwed it down and reattached the pedal. There's a little clip on top of the pedal to hold the cable. Don't lose it, I only have one.

                                                                                            

I put it in a safe place and moved to the cable fitting. Why is the cable too short? Newly purchased from a major supplier, it's inches too short. Tried a spare cable - it's longer but won't reach the pedal without activating the carb, or won't reach the carb bracket if attached to the pedal. What's going on? I had another cable, massively long at about six feet, so I trial-fitted that. Still a lot of headscratching. You know when something is wrong but you just cannot see it?

I took a photo.

                                                                               

I don't remember that length of shiny cable. That can't be right. Eventually the fog cleared - the outer cable sheath is meant to go through the bulkhead to the pedal, not stop outside the bulkhead. that's where my extra length went. Unfortunately when I tried, it wouldn't. This is an early bulkhead on a later car, and the early bulkheads had a tube to stop water getting into the footwell. Later car's don't - see photo.

  

Later Estate on left, 13/60 on right. The problem here is that the tube is wide enough only for the cable inner, not the outer. Were early cars fitted with a two-piece cable outer? I'll have to research that, but in the meantime it means coming up with some kind of adaptation to have a covered cable from pedal to carb, and with the correct ends so that the carb will work and it won't simply pull through the bracket. That's for another day.

So is finding the clip for the accelerator cable. I put it in a safe place, so safe that I can't even find it myself. Maybe I'll find it with the Easter Egg on Saturday.

I'm off for a refill. this is thirsty work, you know.

Goodnight all.

[Wagger]

Really feel for you Colin. I spent a whole day trying to adjust the bonnet so that it stopped scraping the top section of the central 'Bumper' on my Vitesse. Found stripped and seized bolts under the overriders and achieved 2mm clearance, only for it all to sag and bend two days later.

As for the throttle, I gave up and fitted a Spitfire drop down pedal. That took a mere two hours and well worth the effort. I now have 2.5 inches of smooth throttle action instead of a notchy 1.5 inches. I know that it is 'Non standard' but what the hell eh.

Now gonna have to take the tunnel cover off 'Again' in order to sound proof it so The gearbox whine is less obtrusive. Don't wanna remove the gearbox until I've found all of the missing overdrive bits.

[Colin Lindsay]

15 minutes ago, Wagger said:

Really feel for you Colin. I spent a whole day trying to adjust the bonnet so that it stopped scraping the top section of the central 'Bumper' on my Vitesse. Found stripped and seized bolts under the overriders and achieved 2mm clearance, only for it all to sag and bend two days later.

Another two hours down this morning; once again removed all the bolts and brackets, gapped the bonnet on two jacks under the front bonnet tube, then matched up the brackets. I'm getting gaps like this on the driver's side:

                                                                                            

Needs to rotate so that it comes out at the bottom; logical thing is to lift the front and push backwards. However: it won't. Passenger side is like this:

                                                                                             

Same thing here: lift at the front to close the gap at the top and let the front rotate outwards, which will pull that lower wing forwards. Except: it won't. I can't get any more upwards movement at the front. I've checked underneath and found the reason: the front of the bonnet tube is hitting the chassis cross tube and can't move anywhere.

                                                                                             

I can't move it either upwards or forwards without dropping down. This means I'm going to have to remove the bonnet yet again, check the fit of the bonnet support tube, and check the curvature against a spare that I have in the roofspace. There may be damage from years of misuse or it may be incorrectly fitted to the bonnet, which I can't check at present as I can't open the bonnet. It should not be so tight to the cross tube that it can't adjust. More checking required.... but not on the road for this weekend, either.

 

[Chris A]

For the accelerator cable problem, when I replaced mine I went out for a drive and on the way back the car 'lost' power and the engine wouldn't increase in revs when the pedal was pressed to the floor. Limped home and found the outer had just pulled through the hole in the bulkhead, hence no action on the carb. Cured it with a cable clamp on cable under the bonnet against the hole, tightened just enough to hold the cable but not enough to squeeze so the inner wouldn't slide. Not an elegant solution I grant you but works and isn't really visible.

Should I take a photo and post it or would I get laughed at???🙄 I'm sure you'll find your own elegant solution.

[Gary Flinn]

Colin

This must be one of the most frustrating and time consuming bodywork jobs on the Small Chassis Triumphs?

When I was rebuilding my Vitesse it took an age to get the Bonnet to fit correctly, although it didn't have any major work done to it and hadn't been in an accident (So far as I could tell).

A few questions

1. Have you made up new adjustable slotted brackets to mount the bonnet to the front Over-rider Brackets (They look new in the Photo's?) I made some up in slightly thicker Stainless steel with a longer slotted section, can you extend the slotted part on yours?

2. Have you any idea if the car as ever been involved in a frontal accident, if so you may just have to compromise and get the best fit you can

3. Have you got the tensioning springs fitted both sides, these affect the fit of the bonnet no end, if you get it correct without them, then fit them, it then won't fit!  

I know there is conflicting information about if the slotted part of the 2 pairs of adjustment brackets go at the bonnet tube or at the over-rider bracket on the front bar, are you sure you have these the correct way round? The Body fitting notes show slots on the bonnet tube end (I can't remember which way I had them on my car) 

I'm sure you have seen the Standard Triumph notes on Body Adjustments before, but worth a read again as attached?

Keep at it

Regards

Gary 

    

  

Herald, Vitesse Body - Svc Trg Notes.pdf

[Wagger]

28 minutes ago, Chris A said:

For the accelerator cable problem, when I replaced mine I went out for a drive and on the way back the car 'lost' power and the engine wouldn't increase in revs when the pedal was pressed to the floor. Limped home and found the outer had just pulled through the hole in the bulkhead, hence no action on the carb. Cured it with a cable clamp on cable under the bonnet against the hole, tightened just enough to hold the cable but not enough to squeeze so the inner wouldn't slide. Not an elegant solution I grant you but works and isn't really visible.

Should I take a photo and post it or would I get laughed at???🙄 I'm sure you'll find your own elegant solution.

On cheap cables, the outer compresses and results in lack of power. Found that out the 'Hard way' too.

[Wagger]

Befor fitting the 'Drop down' pedal the cable outer was clamped so that only 2ins of it came through the bulkhead leaving 6 ins of innr showing bare above the pedal. It just reached the carbs like that.

[Colin Lindsay]

1 hour ago, Gary Flinn said:

Colin

This must be one of the most frustrating and time consuming bodywork jobs on the Small Chassis Triumphs?

I did my last Heralds in minutes; spread an old quilt over the bulkhead, rest the bonnet on that, jack up at the front and slide about until the gaps are good and even, then finally fit the brackets and tighten. This one is playing silly beggars.

Those are longer slotted brackets that I had made, I've experimented with them in both directions ie slot to the top, then the bottom. No difference. The problem here is that the bonnet won't reach a good position as the support tube hits the front of the chassis so will neither rise nor pull forward. I suspect, as the car has a Vitesse bonnet, that there was accident damage many years ago but no trace of it on the chassis front area and it all looks straight.

And no: I haven't the springs fitted... there's enough to cause bother at present! I need to confirm that the bonnet will fit properly at rest with no other tension involved, as that means once some other factor such as the springs start to cause bother I know I can readjust as required. It's just a lot of bother on my own, scurrying from one side to the other and adjusting bit by bit.

I'll take the bonnet off, check the tube against spares that I have and replace if required, and maybe even adjust the tube if necessary with a slight bend or two in the correct place. The traces of white paint on the overrider brackets are already bringing tears to my eyes....